Onoff

Also, good practice to have the cooker switch within 2m of the appliance.

-10mm to the cooker switch. -10mm to the double cooker connection plate. -2 seperate runs from there one to each appliance. 6mm I imagine will be fine to each but check the loads. Also that it will fit in the appliance. Sometimes a butyl flex is better.

This I have to see! 😂 Generally 10mm2 should just come as a radial from your cooker / hob breaker and terminate in a 45A cooker switch. From there, again in 10mm2 to a cooker connection plate. You can get "double enders" so you can feed the hob and oven. Please go into the wholesaler and ask for such: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AA45DCOP.html

A quick video clip tonight. That loose stuff at the bottom comes off real easy to reveal red (stock?) brick: Original door casings with layers of paint:

Not sure, I'll measure it some time. There's quite a lot of rubble and debris down there.

Floors: 4 rooms downstairs. Kitchen and extension are "concrete " of unknown build up. The lounge and dining room are suspended timber floors. Just mulling the pros/cons of ripping out the floorboards and joists then replacing with insulation then a 100mm slab with wet UFH in?

😂 & I thought my Italian stuff was bad! 11, 12 and 13 above go 24vac, negative, +24vdc. Never seen anything like it and it really threw me as it's not clear.

Some pictures. This is the dining room. All the wall paper is stripped, laminate flooring binned. Polystyrene tiles on a lath & plastered ceiling: The fireplace wall: Right hand side reveal: That corner, where the broom is, is possibly damp but I don't know why: Thinking to just hit it and get all that plaster off the and the ceiling down.

This is mine:

Got a picture of the control board connection diagram?

Or just use a limit switch?

Is it a niche product?

I bought the same style cheap diamond grit ones, right up to I think 100mm. They were spot on: Well lubed with a water spray I even cut brick with the big one:

Made by Ruvru?

I always wanted a Goblin Tea Maid.

You'd have thought with all that money he could have varnished the table top!

You clearly know your onions!

I didn't do this just tidied it up. Back box was rattling in the wall, access to inspect was a pig. Stupid, stupid, stupid!

Boasting again!

Aquapanel is a rigid, solid, inflexible cement board.

Use the proper screws for it. I used Starretts to drill holes in it. To cut, then cheap carbide grit jigsaw blades from TS and an old circular saw. The dust is very abrasive btw. Some advocate the score 'n snap method.

I used Knauf Aquapanel both 6 and 12mm. The face of your studs has to be dead level as it's not very flexible like pb. It can develop hairline cracks but it doesn't appear detrimental as it's made with loads of cross-linked fibres.

With the walls back to bare brick and ceilings down it should make rewiring and plumbing a breeze I think. Some sockets are fed via PVC trunking / conduit but it's hit and miss. One concern with boarding would be the door linings and whether these would need to be renewed to account for the new wall finishes. Pretty sure that if I used 25mm battens that would encroach over doorways. I think all the internal doorways have timber lintels as an aside. Clean slate would at least let me see what I've got.