Onoff

I swear my BiL got bought one of these devices one Christmas. We sat having a beer throwing random questions at it. Discussed the whole "listening in" thing with it in ear shot. Neither of us are golfers but as a test we started talking about golf. Within minutes golf related emails in his Inbox.

? Respect!

Reminds me of the castle I built for my daughter...

Won't be long before it's a Chinese brand imo: https://www.sunamp.com/sunamp-and-gomon-sign-agreement-at-ish/

Inter Continental Ballistic Missiles! As in missile silos. ?

Really good I believe actually but expensive? Smooth as finish wise going by some pictures on here, like glass.

Well there you go. Everyone of our "eps" layers are on free draining compacted sub bases. Hardly moist! I'd suggest your comments are irrelevant. Stop scaremongering so we can put our Kangos away! ? Edit: Do you have shares in a DPM company?

Some good links here as to what flush plate fits what etc:

Shouldn't there be a condensate drain somewhere on the diy one? What would improve the efficiency or is the Correx heat exchanger the limiting factor? Would encasing in pir improve efficiency?

@pocster, are you having a pumped liquid screed at "only" 60mm?

My two frames were a bargain £100 the pair. Older models so deeper but work a treat. Geberit instructions are good too. I was lucky in the frame was sited over the old blocked up doorway that ended up 2" lower anyway than the main wall. Over a 3m wide wall not one stud is the same depth range from 90mm to I think 145mm. In part to square the room off and also to allow depth for the pockets as well as wc frame. The studs are concrete screwed to the wall at 5 points minimum. The rears are packed with timber where the screws are then everything foam filled. Geberit instructions are good too. Typical drawings: There'll also likely be a video for whatever frame you get, e.g:

What Geberit cistern are you planning? Stud depth is on the instructions.

Well fair play to Susan ?: https://www.gumtree.com/p/plumbing-central-heating/heat-recovery-unit-fully-working-home-made-unit-size-80cm-x-70cm-x-33cm/1336403114

Fully agree about pir taking up moisture. But eps...the stuff they make swimming floats from???

Where's the fun in that? ?

If you can find me a Screweys with one of these in stock I might! ? https://www.screwfix.com/p/z1c-ds-65-14-3kg-hex-shank-breaker-230v/9158v

So I've got compacted Type 2, sand blind, 25mm eps, dpm then 150mm of pir. Are you saying I should have had a dpm under the eps?

Take this passive build for example. 300mm of Peripor polystyrene straight onto the compacted sub base - no membrane underneath:

What's GF?

These silos, are the ICBMs still in them? ? Oh, and welcome.

I wondered. Read some stuff and the water take up of eps is minimal.

Can you introduce new fittings easily enough? Slip couplings can help.

Got all my Geberit from eBay, Gumtree & Preloved. Couldn't afford new! Thinking about I'm sure it was @PeterW gave me a link to an online catalogue that made it much easier to decipher compatible part numbers. Love Geberit but wtf do they mix mm and cm on the same drawing?

? In the cupboard...I'm listening. We have a cupboard though it's on two internal walls. What sort of unit were you thinking? Would it mean a long 4" pipe out to the soffit? Rather than a louvre door how about a vent in one of those tiles above the door? Or the top full tile above the loo on the cupboard side? (Tbh I'd still rather make than buy!)

Yep. Sight lines on protected views, listed buildings etc. Latchways fitted right works really well but the onus is on whoever is accessing the roof to clip on. Fit a handrail or screen and there's no worry. Years ago was on a big bank job where the roof was covered in God awful looking plant. To tidy it up they erected a louvred screen wall around the whole lot. Tbh the screen wall was only as high as the tallest bit of plant and it tidied everything up so much. There was a right fuss made over them compromising the sight lines to St Pauls which was b@llocks.