Onoff

I wonder if there's any significance they are still using Nicads on the ISS?

So begins the Makita battery to (Aldi) Ferrex tool adapter! (PLA, 25% fill).

Grohe; similar install dimns:

145mm from back of pipe to front of frame with an 8cm Geberit: https://catalog.geberit.co.uk/en-GB/Geberit-Duofix-frame-for-wall-hung-WC,-114-cm,-with-Sigma-concealed-cistern-8-cm/PRO_168879-111.799.00.1.html

Hang on...I've been reading elsewhere: "Dewalt and Makita have the BMS/LV cut off in the tool. Ryobi, Ridgid, Milwaukee all have a basic BMS in the battery. Makita batteries marked with a * (star) or yellow marking have over-heating and over-discharge protection. The non-star ones do not".

How about a turned trap pan? Link picked at random: https://www.replacementbathroom.co.uk/turned-trap-low-level-wc-toilet-pan-white-1192-p.asp

Fair enough. No discharge protection there then!

AC50?

Could the fan be swapped out for a more modern, quieter design? A very brief read here I think suggests a (slight?) increase in drawn power whilst retaining the same airflow. https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/avoiding-acoustic-noise-from-the-electric-motor.415377/ Guessing the shaft / key will be imperial. On those lines I assume you've had the fan cover off and looked for blade damage or it being loose? Ditto clean out the accumulated, compacted dust & fluff. Check the mesh grilles too in case they're vibrating. A chance that changing the bearings for top quality ones might help. If you rotate the shaft manually how does it feel/sound? I've just changed a 24/7 run, fuel store fan's bearings for noise/vibration issues as I might have said earlier. Midland bearings are good. "You can have top quality for £40, Japanese for £20 or Chinese for £6". ? Needless to say the 3 Chinese ones in my kid's Jeep are still going strong alongside their posh (darker blue) sibling!

I've one room done in 22mm, 400 centres and affixed with Spax screws. 4 other rooms in 18mm at 400 ctrs and affixed with angular rings. Not a peep from the 22mm room. Feels like a solid floor tbh.

Interesting, this seller is producing LED worklights adapted to fit a number of different makes of Li-ion battery: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/ces2802/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

Rightly so, he has a dungeon!

Anyway of testing whether the Nm is up near where stated? Maybe on a torque wrench? I can do so easily if I get one as all my kit is calibrated.

Got a link? Did that include p&p? Will it take a smaller 1/4" bit in the end of the 1/2" drive? Cheers

Mine won't work on all pallets especially like some of the close boarded ones. It's meant really just to go over the 2" width where the cross bearers are say 3 or 4x2. This type has merit: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/roughneck-64-644-pallet-buster/? Should work on all types for instance even where the bearers, second layer down are 4x1 width ways. Note though mine articulates and the angle irons spread the load so you lift two nails at once so less chance of splitting the wood. I'll make a universal one one day with quick release pins!

& so can you:

You have a pm.

I made one of these: Fag packet sketch I did is on here somewhere.

Pallets on the ground are just inviting vermin imo. The one I did with my nephew a while back: Concrete base, sole plate to match pallet width: You can see here how the width of the pallet matches the width of the sole plate (bottom left): Using the same size pallets helps but isn't essential. Pallets can be shortened and modded such as for the door way: You just butt them up and screw through. Blocks of scrap timber dropped in between the pallet get screwed from the side and down from the top into the sole plate. Same at the top of the pallet wall for a wall plate. Cladding was waste from a lumber mill:

Would a chain or belt driven, contra rotating fan, slaved off the main motor shaft and obviously on the same axis work as a noise cancelling system? A brief Google found this: https://www.hindawi.com/journals/mpe/2018/3739067/

Our stainless sink is made by Bacofoil from one of the diy sheds ?. Not only does it sound like Rolf Harris's wobble board but it stains easily too. Told SWMBO we should buy a Franke one but I was overruled.

The light you wish to switch...is it fitted already, currently switched some other way etc? Could you "break into" a feed line by fitting another light (or dummy vent etc) thus creating an access aperture to poke the receiver in?

Erm...going back to your first post you had a 4 gang switch with one spare. You wanted to use the spare way to switch another light? Pick a make, MK or Varilight. Buy a 4 gang face plate. For this other light you want to switch put in a wireless grid switch. No wires on the back, nothing to connect, just clip it in (this is an MK one): Then for this new light you want to switch, you site a Quinetic receiver in the L & N supply to it. The receiver can be up in the ceiling or anywhere else. Nowhere you can jump in? Something like this. It literally jumps into the L&N going to the light. This is a standard receiver or you can use a dimming one. (The little white wire is the aerial): Pair them up and when you press the switch above the light goes on or off. That leaves 3 existing switches. These are the ones wired in. Replace them with "traditional" MK grid switches, like one of these depending on whether it's 1 or 2 way: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/A_White_All/Grid_System/Grid_System_3/index.html So all switches match but one is wireless and paired with the remote receiver. So why the worry over the lack of neutral in the back box?

I wouldn't be told (to get a pro in) and am pretty happy with how my attempt at a ceiling and half wall came out. I'd do it again. I just followed this bloke's 4 parter on YouTube:

You mean "out in the elements"! ? Good on her.