Onoff

More often early if the stories are correct... https://www.bristol.gov.uk/residents/planning-and-building-regulations/building-regulations/book-a-site-inspection

Completion certificate.

Big bruv said: "If that is what the Warranty says then I can't see Reg 6 issue arising from that. It would be more relevant to look at what the customer was told before the work was started/completed. If they were not told prior to the work I would start looking at Reg 6 then. If it was made clear to start with then it is unlikely, based on this that a case exists".

A total aside but my chippie mate had a load of 18V DeWalt tools that took the old, "tower" style DC9*** Ni-mh battery. He upgraded to the new, DeWalt XR li-ion kit. He bought an adaptor to use the XR battery on the old kit. Reckons using a li-ion battery on the old tools burnt out the "trigger" in a couple of the drills. ???

M3 heat inserts. I made the hole 3.75mm dia. Cut down a spare soldering iron tip, pop the insert on and push it home. Could likely increase the 3.75mm a tad as it pushed the molten plastic (in this case PETG) ahead of the insert. In this case winding the screws in pushed the dross out the other side no problem. Might be trickier with a blind hole. Printed btw on the Bambo X1C.

Uses the original yellow "tower" and DeWalt battery connector. The new blades to engage with the Ferrex battery are from 9x1mm copper. A 4 piece print; body, clips and wedge to keep the copper blades in place: I could split the body into two, bolt together sections, to allow different batteries to be used with an appropriate printed section.

Just finished this for someone. My own design.

A bit of an aside but you might be able to take them on on the basis of not providing the warranty info before you bought. My son recently bought a top end graphics card (as in ££££), that had coil whine. When contacted initially, the supplier wrote back that coil whine can be quite normal and doesn't affect the user experience. They would accept the card as a return but only if my lad changed his reason from "faulty" to "unwanted". Bottom line is my brother's a barrister. We went back on these lines: "Regulation 6 of the Consumer Protection from Unfair Trading Regulations 2008 ("the Regulations") requires you to provide material information about your products to consumers. Failing to do so can constitute an offence under the Regulations. The lack of this information had an effect on my transactional decision because if I had know about the issue the product would not have been bought. A breach of the regulations does not provide me with a direct route for redress but this, together with my rights under the Consumer Rights Act 2015 seems to generate a situation in which you may wish to reconsider my request for a refund on my original grounds?" Thinking you might be able to adapt the wording to say had you been aware of the restrictions you wouldn't have gone with them. Saying that imho I think what they are saying is in some repects quite fair. If someone else messes with their work and the roof leaks, it's going to be a pita dealing with two companies as to liability even if both are approved installers. What does the company small print say on repairs etc? You could argue what if the installation company folds, you would be forced to seek an alternative, approved installer for repairs etc. You allude to the original install not going well. Care to expand on that? If you're deemed a difficult customer they may be playing hard ball. I'll ask my brother.

Clean it first. Any loose stuff etc. I used no nonsense degreaser on mine. Sweep, rinse etc. Then one of the acrylic fibre reinforced compounds, Acrypol, Evercryl, Cromapol, Flecacryl, Evercryl etc.

He certainly won't let them out...

You shouldn't need an EICR for a "new install". You do need the EIC under BS7671 which has the same schedule of tests attached as in an EIC. You'll obviously have the EIC from back when the new board went in. You'll need a Fire Alarm Certificate to BS5839. The fixed wiring and testing thereof to the fire alarm comes under 7671. Of course...over the course of a long drawn out build, COVID etc you may have lost touch with your electrician and the bco might well accept an EICR... 😉

Solvent weld whatever you can where it's inaccessible.

Inside there'll be a vent covering a fan. Possibly held on by cross head screws. The fan can get iced up. Unplug, take the fan cover off and see if iced up.

Periodically walk over it then though the house, preferably over a light coloured floor covering. SWMBO's reaction will help you gauge whether it's dry or not.

Dirty protest?

Steady on, he's not Savile/Glitter/Edwards!

Not gone for p!ss yellow this time then?

Hackintosh

15m to be more accurate...

It certainly would. Post some up of what you've got!

Decent make, brand new, 1/2" router bit against a fence will make a dead straight, razor sharp clean edge on the bottom of the door. Better than a planed edge.

Deja vu! At least it doesn't leak. Will it end up skipped?

6x2 stud here. Coach screws in from the side You could even consider doubling up on the studs either side: On the wall a length of unistrut. Studs off that to the Geberit frame. You can just see where I used studding connectors to extend the original Geberit studs. I'd be thinking on the lines of insetting a chunky bit of steel angle into each face of the stud to bolt to. Pass the fixings studs through that it replaced with longer studs/ hex extenders etc. I also marine ply faced the lot: Then Aqua Panel: Sikaflex first: Self drill screws into the Geberit frame: More Sikaflex: Aqua Panel:

Why not just do the wall in 200mm deep studs. You could have some nice feature pockets or an inset medicine cabinet.

https://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/gate-hardware/drop-bolts-and-bars?query=&sort_by=score&sort_asc=false&material=["Galvanised"]