Onoff

Give over! A lightweight door would hang all day long on just the jam with no header. I do hope neither @Olf's or @ProDave's doors haven't fallen off yet.

Let's think cheap! ? Transport is maybe a problem. What have you got lying around? You could make a good approximation of a cottage style door out of sheet material. I think you said the doors had to be 610mm wide. You could get two out of an 8x4 sheet of 18mm MDF or ply. You could route some mock T&G lines on the front face. If not quite wide enough add a glued and pinned strip of softwood up the side. Similarly you could get one "door" out of an 8x2 T&G floorboard if you had one lying spare. Again glue and pin a softwood edge on. Again route the front. In both cases add ledges and braces to the back. Put T hinges into these. Prime and paint.

Or no nails a bit of 6mm ply to the underside of the lintel if it looks a bit rough. This instead of using the header supplied with the frame kit.

Exactly the frames I used in my bathroom. On one though I modified the head piece to suit a 610mm wide (again Wickes) door. It just meant trimming the length and cutting another through housing for the jam to fit into. The head and jams are 27.5mm thick not 25mm btw.

Should have read "Make one like you said?"

Make one looks like you said? http://woodarchivist.com/1164-making-ledge-brace-doors/

Wot he said.

I was suggesting you get the door as I'd be surprised / impressed if you could put a frame in super square. I couldn't. You will likely end up trimming the door so it's wider at the top than the bottom or vice versa. Might not be too bad. With the door on the hinge jam and the hinge jam loosely screwed to the wall you can fiddle with the head piece and other jam to your heart's content.

600mm deep all the way. A question; I excavated the trench a section at a time so I've a large mound of mixed soil, some top soil, some clay etc. Should I bother trying to separate it as it goes back in as in clay in first then top soil. Similarly , other than removing obvious bits of tree root can the big 'ish stones and flints stay in?

1970/1975mm...neither will fit in a 1981mm gap! ? Get sketching then, to know where you're going. Something like this: You want 3mm ideally at the top. At the bottom, how much it clears the carpet by is up to you. Sounds like you'll have to cut down a door height wise. Be aware that on cheapo doors there is just a thin strip of softwood around the edge that limits how much you can trim by. For example this circa £20 Wickes door. Cut too much off and you'll be left with a void filled with corrugated cardboard. You can tbh just cut a bit of softwood to fit in there and just glue it in.

Be worth it just for my lads reaction when he comes back from uni. Big Stargate fan he is.

Like the bottoms of milk bottles my glasses!

Other people thought is was a silly idea, along with the rise and fall shower head. As your mate said "The people who are crazy enough to think they can change the world are the ones who do".

I think it was a couple of years ago I was mulling a flow switch placed in line to the rainfall shower head. It would trigger a ring of LEDs set in a circular pattern around the shower head...maybe in a like Knightrider sequence. To get the full effect I need the noise from the Stargate transporter rings. https://youtu.be/eXc36FwY4zQ

Open fully then close half a turn or so.

Nope. If you have a 1970mm height from floor to lintel or whatever then a 1981mm door won't fit with out some trimming. You have to factor in the thickness of the head piece of the frame. You then want a 3mm gap between top of door and underside of head. What floor finishes are you having that the door will pass over when it's opened?

First thing is it a standard door size? https://www.jbkind.com/info-centre/standard-door-sizes#uk-standard-door-sizes I'd be getting the frame and door, fitting the door to the jamb then packing the jams head so it's all nice and square before fixing the frame tight. That's just me. https://www.wonkeedonkeexljoinery.co.uk/doors-general-information/door-frames/ Trouser shims are your friend.

How wide's the plot?

I could create a surface mesh in AutoCAD with the data. This sort of thing. The survey ideally to be done with spot heights on a regular grid:

In desperation, miles from anywhere with no tools I bought one of these from a petrol station. Surprisingly good: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amtech-C1680B-2-in-1-Stubby-Wrench/dp/B008PSM7M8/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=amtech+stubby&qid=1603387792&s=diy&sr=1-1

Well it involves laying and floors...walls...

Erm...I don't think that'll work at the leaking fitting isn't a 15mm pipe. Got a bigger picture? For a start use a screwdriver to turn those two valves to the horizontal. You should be able to then undo the fitting with only a little local water loss. Guessing a washer behind. A GOOD wrap of PTFE tape may sort you.

"Well you see, I've known his mother for a number of years, she has my ration book and I go round to her house sometimes for meals... and that sort of thing".

£23 a month here, metered. That's just for water, haven't got mains drainage.

I painted my garage floor with single pack paint. It hadn't been painted since it was laid and luckily had no oil staining etc. I knocked off all the laitance with a cup brush on a grinder then vacuumed it with the shop vac...then vacuumed it again. A messy, dusty job but we'll worth the effort. I had a fair bit of various shades of grey floor paint, some bought, some full, some half and scored off sites, all different makes. All went into an old 5gal brewing barrel and got mixed with a stick. Applied with a cheap plastic broom. Done 10 years ago probably and all good.