Onoff

Cement board I could do. Not so sure about my skimming skills but I'd give it a go! Going the "register plate" route might allow for easier removal later on.

Never heard of it until now. Thanks. Looks like vermiculite board is a goer too: https://shop.vitcas.com/help/free-standing-stove/what-should-i-use-for-a-register-plate.html#:~:text=We recommend using a Vermiculite,flue pipe with a jigsaw.

Something I'm looking at up the pub. There is an open fire in the other bar but this stove is the only form of heating downstairs in use when it's not a pub. (Upstairs she and the kids rely on electric oil filled rads). Used to have Calor central heating and cooking but that got too expensive. Looking then at the chimney above this inglenook (?) fireplace: Not sure if the flue is twin wall? Inspection hatch: Some people locally have apparently "boarded" directly above the stove to get more heat into the room. I was mulling something like this. Either fireproof plasterboard or perhaps better, sheet steel supported by the timbers either side. Then Rockwool batts above. Any thoughts?

I have a particular dislike for most window firms and their fitters. They deliberately under measure so they can get in and out as quick as. They do not want to be getting the grinder out and making the hole bigger. This from experience. My windows have similar issues. Mitre bonded ("super glued") trim covering similar gaps. This is my lounge window at the top, the foam is Illbrück FM330 where I've started to address the gaps. With the glued on plastic trim removed to reveal huge gaps: One of my old windows where I chipped off the render to exactly measure the old frame: The new window went in with like a 5mm gap from memory: Inside there's no massive gap. Not great that all my windows are flush with the outer skin. For the most part there are no cavity closers either.

I just have these on my outside taps: https://www.screwfix.com/p/essentials-outside-tap-cover/77873

I asked my plumber mate and he said sh!t travels downhill and pay day's Thursday. Seriously, I use one of these to suck heating oil through the line if my tank runs low and I get an airlock. You could "blow" with it too.

Just tooled it as normal with the Fugi Cramer silicone tools.

Forever White in our bathroom for 5 years now is still like new. Tbh it's so ****ING cold in there I don't think mould can grow 😂

Try this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/200ml-Forever-Grout-Reviver-Energy/dp/B07XMBWLPZ/ref=asc_df_B07XMBWLPZ?

I've also used BT1. Very good.

Everbuild Forever White.

Depends how keen you are but one way would be to route out a rectangular section of the door face and drop in a flush section of solid timber slightly smaller than the coat rack. You'd just make up a frame to route against and have at it. It would even take out the inner cardboard down to where you could glue the timber to the back of the opposite face with D4 or similar. Just weight it down, no screws. Similarly you could drill each vertical side at / on the centre line and height of the coat rack then knock a "broom handle" through to screw to, from one side to the other. You would have to remove / get through the inner corrugated card. Could be into hole saws with long extensions etc. In both cases you'd be screwing into "real wood". Fun either way!

Those wooden inserts were something like 100mm dia. Run through the thicknesser to get the depth, so as to be flush. I just filled around the edge as you can see below then sanded and glossed the lot. I put 3 or 4 screws in from the other side and plenty of wood glue. As Dad was prone to falls the idea was he could maybe grab the rail and haul himself up. It was a rush job near "the end". We'd been on at him for years to have an accessible bathroom done let alone re-wire, decorate, etc.

Sounds like you got off lightly!

Sadly not too far from the truth: White Gold https://g.co/kgs/JKZoPv5

The usual bodge is to fit undersize windows, not put any foam in at all, then cover the gaps with plastic trim. Ask me how I know!

At my Dad's, before he passed, the doors etc were the original from 1960. Hardboard skin with paper / cardboard inside. Hardly anything had been changed or updated. We needed to convert the bathroom one to a sliding door. Firstly so he could manoeuvre his walker through the hall, also in case he fell against the inward opening door. That plus fit a big handle which he would quite likely hang on. I Starrett cut big holes, then glued and screwed timber rounds from the other side: Put it this way, I could hang on it:

You go and celebrate eh? Wilco have a big toy sale on...

As the OP only mentions straw and not stone then I assume them.

Um...they were never for sale per se. It's unproven. I made one, shipped to a mate but Evri lost it. He has Ferrex batteries and old DeWalt tools...I don't. I haven't printed/made another. The ADHD kicked in and I can't be arsed.

Email Marmox and ask if there's a stockist near you for 50mm board. https://www.marmox.co.uk/ Send a photo of what you're trying to do and they might even send you a "sample" 😉

Thin cuts I hear? Guilty! I could have had the ceiling 2" lower and saved myself a load of grief around the top edge. Worst thing I did was, never having tiled before, start on that mitred section where the shower rail is. Hindsight etc. A dimmer switch hides a lot of poor tiling...

You could just reintroduce bears and let them **** in the woods. I think you can eat bear too.

Looks good in the picture...but then so does mine...except close up! Quite a forgiving pattern.

What about a piece of 50mm Marmox board? Foamed in with say Illbrück FM330.