Onoff

Give Gas Safe their due they came back to me: As we are the registration body for gas engineers, our remit is gas safety. If you have concerns for the gas work carried out in your property, you can raise this as a concern to us. You can make a concern to the Gas Safe Register by calling our contact centre on 0800 408 5500, via our website; http://www.gassaferegister.co.uk/help/make_a_complaint.aspx or you can forward your concerns to me by email. The information required will be as follows; •your full name, address, phone number and email address •the name of the business •the registration number of the business •the address of the business •the engineer’s name •the engineer’s licence number on their ID card. We also need information about the gas work carried out, tell us; •If the work was carried out at (home or work premises) •if you have told the business or engineer about your concern •if the work is complete •if the engineer has carried out any repairs or correction work •if you are satisfied with the repairs or correction work if they carried it out •if another engineer has carried out work additional work on the installation or appliances that you are raising a concern over •any other details that could be useful to support your concern. We will review your comments and carry out an investigation, which may include a visit to inspect the gas work carried out, if appropriate. Following the inspection visit, a copy of our Inspector's report will be sent to those parties entitled to receive a copy. However if you have already arranged for British Gas to correct this, we would not be able to raise a concern to offer an inspection after they have done this. The best thing to do would be to make a complaint directly to British Gas. I hope that this helps, however, if you have any other enquiries regarding this matter, please do not hesitate to contact me again Kind regards, However, it seems half a "stock" response & a bit of a swerve tbh. I told them what had happened, seems like hard work. A bit like reporting one of the electrical scheme members. They'll give their members every chance to keep the cheques rolling in & only react over misuse of their logos! ?

White mastic to match the trim rather than that pi$$ yellow grout colour?

I did mull planting a living hedge on my sliding gate...

Be very aware as to the legal safety requirements for powered opening gates that came from some fatal accidents over the last few years. Even more reason to comply you could argue with "open" style gates but applicable to all. Even huge constructions like mine! ? https://www.easygatesdirect.co.uk/store/gate-safety-guide/gate-safety-legislation

If you can beat 11degC then you win.

Oh! I thought he had an existing boiler and rads and that they took the boiler out, installed the ASHP and added some extra rads?

Was your old system cleaned and power flushed? Just done mine and it's made a world of difference to the radiator temperatures.

I'm thinking it's best to change the WC fill to mains from the current CWS tank feed? Quicker fill etc. The original feed is that capped 15mm hanging in mid air. Low down left there's x3 15 mm copper pipes I ran when I did the downstairs bathroom. Middle one is mains. Thinking to chuck in a 15mm compression T there and come straight up and through the wall albeit with some fancy pipe bends. I thought I was being so clever when I tidied up the lighting wiring and put it in that white wiring centre, neatly clipped to the joist. I've now had to move that for the new soil branch position. As least I've also gotten rid of that towel rail spur to the right of the old soil pipe hole. That is in fact the DOWNSTAIRS ring! The original wiring and plumbing here varies from taking the shortest route to the longest but always the easiest! Joints galore on both ?

When you say "foundations"...if swinging gate leaves then you must surely be having a post into the ground? My (sliding) gate pillar foundations are 1m deep rounds dug with a PTO driven auger on the back of a tractor. The running base and base for the piers I then cast on top. There's a 4x4 steel up the centre of each column. All my gate side loads transmit to the steel post not the brick column. Should look nice if ever I finish it!

All socket and pipe apertures in the 3/8" pb filled with cut roundels etc of pb and stuck flush with EBT & Sticks Like Sh!t. Towel rail gone. Cistern mounting holes drilled through (got to put some timber mounting blocks on the back of the pb). The new soil pipe hole neatly drilled with a 114mm cutter and the hole edge smeared with neat, white D3 glue. Amazing how it hardens up the cut edge and stops it from crumbling. I always do the same around socket cut outs. SWMBO will paper it hopefully tomorrow.....yuk. Then I'll run a new mains water pipe (off the CWS before), fit the new pan and be done with this for now.

Chippy mate is a DeWalt fan and swears by his cordless multitool.

I have a Lidl Parkside 230V multi tool. It just keeps going, I mean it really does keep going, the on/off switch is stuck or broken.

Could you run a hot air gun off it and dry your leaks up?

I'd happily argue it's an open roof space not a void within the building. I've written to the Gas Safety Register asking their thoughts on the matter and what if any recourse I have to BG.

It's dependant on load, the length of the cable and installation conditions e.g run through / under insulation. Something the sparks usually specs/advises on. Probably 2.5mm2 T&E. You are taking on the responsibility of the designer and could come unstuck to put it bluntly. A book well worth getting is this: https://www.wiringregulations.net/18th-edition-wiring-regulations/building-regulations-part-p?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2LX53Iyg7QIVZIBQBh0gtQxnEAAYASAAEgLDDvD_BwE (The green book, you can download Part P for free).

I didn't want to be the one to point hat out.....and those pencil marks for the pipe runs would drive me insane! ?

The hatch Peter linked to is fire rated. On the Manthorpe site it says it must be installed in fire rated pb. Still think it a bit mad cutting into a "sealed" pb ceiling and installing a hatch unless the hatch itself is gas tight. That surely would be better that fire rated. The whole reason for inspecting the flue as I undestand is to check the condition to guard against fume leakage yet a lot of the cheap inspection hatches I bet are so loose fitting they're more likely to let fumes through into the room? Tempted to go over with some card and make a paper template of the ceiling. Then cut a bit of pink pb to suits and overboard. I wouldn't normally but someone previous has made a hash with fiire rated (?) foam where pipes goes up into the loft area. Then cut the hatch into the pink pb on the deck, stick it up and use the pre cut hole as a guide to cut the original board. The hatch projects 33mm up. 2 layers of pb would take care of 24mm. Just thinking there might be pipes close, above. Won't know until I survey it. Probably over complicating things as usual!

That works, thanks.Tbh I can't imagine the ceiling it's going into is fire rated pb.

I just get an "error processing that link"?

Thanks, I think you might mean Manthorpe? Going over Sunday. Just bought one of those inspection cameras so I can poke it up into the void hopefully and see what's up there in the way of pipes/cables/joists. Sod's Law it won't be striaghtforward!

Slightly off topic but I have a relative who's idea for UFH was 1" Celotex, a load of soldered up 15mm copper pipe (lots and lots of elbows). Protection consisted of wrapping, as best as, the pipes in bits of DPM and rubble bags. Dry screed over the top. All run off the normal radiator circuit. Been running for years with seemingly no issue. I imagine the heat losses downward must help to prevent over heating? ?

Tenant has OK'd it for me to go over Sunday. Not ideal as I'd rather have had it (the hatch) measured and ordered and maybe been fitting it then but hey ho.

I was go to suggest an accessible grid plate, remote to the appliances but as the op said he's running the cables himself didn't. Unless he likes running wires..... Personally I think they look very swish.

If you have a DP isolator above the worktop then that has a switch built in. No point in having the socket it feeds switched. So unswitched sockets below worktop fed by 20A DP switch above.

Indeed. The saving grace I guess being the draughty roof void. Wrong though that he says on his report turned off but seemingly didn't. Or did the tenant turn it back on? I have to wonder why I pay BG for their top service if multiple engineers haven't picked up on this. Just messaged the tenant explaining & saying happy to go over and measure up asap.