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Everything posted by Onoff
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The bigger ones like you show usually need a 3 phase input which isn't a problem on commercial sites. You can get smaller ones like this for instance that run off of a 230V single phase supply. Look at the description. You would need a kiosk, temporary or otherwise with a 5OA Type D MCB in. That then feeding a suitably sized armoured cable to power the site transformer. Cable size is basically dependant on length of run.
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Just find the two thread sizes and print a M/F adapter? Then do away with the barbed bit altogether.
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https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=1%2F2"+bsp+to+hose+connector&page=1
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3D print whatever you require.
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Wider, overhanging copings and have a hidden gutter under that?
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A stainless pipe or gutter, near horizontal in line with the top balustrade handrails?
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So basically you're after suggestions where to shove it?
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Run it on top of the coping and hide under some powder coated, folded sections to mimic the coping.
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Paint a brick effect on or stick brick slips to the pipe?
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My first house was a terrace. A communal footpath, serving all houses ran behind the houses with the back gardens beyond that. The sewer ran under this path. Everyone had their own manhole. It served 7 terraces and the pub on the end. It then ran along to the end terrace, up the side of that into the main sewer. I seem to recall some council or water board obligation whereby if it became blocked they always cleared it without charge.
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Probably worth putting a few quid on the first Great White attack being down your way soon 😬
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I didn't think the brown pipe solvent welded very well?
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https://ebay.us/m/1BOXR4
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Just clad with timber to match the house?
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@oranjeboom dug down every floor in his bungalow and built back up. Check out this and his other threads:
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The Everbuild 202 has a de-aerator in it so less air to tamp out. Also makes the mix just "better".
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The 25mm EPS goes atop the Type 2 and under the DPM to yes protect the DPM from puncturing. Also EPS is damp proof. I mixed it myself. 4:1 ballast/cement mixed with Everbuild 202 Integral Waterproofer to the tub ratio. The A142 mesh hold it all together. Meant to add fibres but kept losing them!
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Advice on connecting cores of SWA cable inside junction box
Onoff replied to Tim Shand's topic in Electrics - Other
A ring spanner of the size to match the locknut can be easier than an open ender especially when the gland is close to a screw boss. (Slip over the cable end with the power off/isolated). Worst case you get someone to hold the gland side with a spanner and you knock the locknut round / tight with a sharp, flat bladed screwdriver and a hammer. The steel screwdriver tip digs into the brass etc. Last report that really, ideally space your glands so you can get a spanner on.