Onoff

Presumably if he hadn't have won he'd have no longer felt bound to think purely of peace?

I read that as polar bears drying out!

Didn't dream this:

Wonder what a drone / claymore combo would do to a solar farm? 🤔 Vulnerable, oh yes!

Just vaguely recall someone "copying" my concealed mixer, riser, rainfall setup but in plastic. Yes, I did copper and brass.

Not worth using plastic?

I've been working closely with a major infrastructure supplier. Ceased trading as they'd bet on the lower Thames crossing, HS2 phase 2 etc. Bought stock etc. More than bet on I think, letters of intent etc. All their bespoke manufacturing kit is going abroad. No doubt when our shelved projects kick off again the stuff will be made overseas. With a capital F!

PMSL! 🤣 Who makes all the renewable kit? PV panels, inverters, batteries? We'll still need all that imported and be reliant / vulnerable to outside forces pulling the plug.

I've used a multi tool to cut Celcon before. Whatever blade, knife through butter etc. Wall chaser's another option.

Goats?

Fry in butter.....Mmmmm!

Rip it all out seal and any gaps with clear CT1 as the waterproof element then dressed flush with a Fugi Cramer tool kit. Apply a cosmetic bead of Forever White. Have an open black bin bag at the ready and a couple of packs of the cheapest, unscented baby wipes. As you get too much silicone on the tool take it off with a baby wipes and drop into the bin bag.

Screwfix are showing the same stuff for collection only but appear to still do it. It was my goto for round doors and windows but Illbrück FM330 is far superior. It skins up so much more rubbery and flexible I just feel more confident of it than the Soudal stuff.

Installed today. At the house I have a dedicated 60A switch fuse with a 100mA Type S RCD. After the incoming 100A fuse it's split via Henleys then to the house cu and the switch fuse. From the switch fuse a 16mm² SWA goes to the new garage consumer unit. For the EV point I have a 40A, C curve, 30mA, double pole, bidirectional, RCBO. The EV point is fed from there via a 10mm² SWA. Set up means the garage circuits are all on 30mA RCBOs.

As above why not cross batten the ceiling with 50mm timbers to form a service cavity and reboard. Leave some batten gaps so you can add lights later if you want. That way your insulation layer remains in one piece with no penetrations.

Heras fencing with a dense camo net over it?

Make sure too that those black waste pipe fittings haven't just been pushed on loose, i.e no solvent weld. Could be leaking down inside the cavity.

I think most of us suspected an overflowing roof gutter. There still appear to be some lines of greenery in the mortar joints above that pipe joint. You're in a world of fun here! That round waste pipe to square down pipe arrangement is a bit of a bodge. Normally you'd go from round waste pipe to round down pipe with a solvent weld, strap on boss like this. https://pipescenes.co.uk/shop/soil-waste/40mm-1-5-waste/solvent-fittings-40mm-1-5-waste/black-fittings-solvent-fittings-40mm-1-5-waste/black-3-82mm-x-40mm-43mm-boss-clip-strap-boss-1-1-2-glued-solvent-adaptor/ I don't think they do similar for square down pipe? You can get a pure solvent weld boss like this that could fit into the square pipe. Depends though on the dia of the waste pipe coming in: https://pipescenes.co.uk/shop/soil-waste/40mm-1-5-waste/solvent-fittings-40mm-1-5-waste/black-fittings-solvent-fittings-40mm-1-5-waste/black-3-82mm-x-40mm-43mm-boss-clip-strap-boss-1-1-2-glued-solvent-adaptor/ Consider changing the down pipe to a round one along with associated support brackets and getting a compatible, solvent weld strap on boss. Different makes may be slightly different diameters. Enough to make it a pita if you mix makes. Lots of variables for what might seem a little job. How is that joint done at the moment, I suspect just a hole drilled in the square pipe and the other one poked through? Don't go ordering any of the linked bits btw! A relatively straightforward job if you're a bit handy and have a good selection of tools, hole saws etc a potential pita if you haven't. Me, I'd work with what's there and 3D print an adapter that I'd CT1 on. But then I'm handy and have all the tools. A quick fix would indeed be a tube of black CT1 and run a bead around that joint.

The capacitor on my microwave combi was duff.

Many years ago as a lift engineer's mate. Went to a site to help out. Governor was spitting feathers and everyone was coming in for it. One of the not so bright labourers had been tasked with opening out some holes in a load of plates. He'd made himself a "bench" by stacking a couple of cable drums on top of each other. Unfortunately these were full rolls of the specially ordered flat form cable...

Posted before but I suspected what I found when I carefully excavated. The previous owner had put a dinner gong directly above the light switch:

This was a genuine near miss when I dropped a flat wood bit:

There's a definite "water course" from above as evidenced by the greenery in the vertical joints.

You first need to rake out anything loose: You can repoint using a hawk and finger trowel. This guy makes a nice job: For repointing I like using and have a few mortar guns. I had a Faithful type one but RUINED it by trying to gun a mix that had sharp sand through it. As the chap alludes to in the video, use the proper sand. I can't disagree with anything this he says. For admix I like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-ILW5L-Integral-Liquid-Waterproofer/dp/B00133HA1A At the mo I've a couple of the slim silver type guns. One branded Roughneck and one slightly shorter tube wise but otherwise identical from Lidl and sold under the Parkside brand as a silicone/caulk/grouting gun! Simply not as good as the Faithful type.