Onoff

If you plan on trying to remove the Tiger Seal of the plastic then it'll be a case of mechanical means first like a wood chisel. To soften the pu try acetone, nail polish remover, carb cleaner etc. The best of British!

As recommended by the Welsh Wizard. Hallowed be his name.

Solvent weld. You could use this as it's thicker than the normal "brush in the tin" type stuff. As in if the strap on doesn't quite fit tight around the pipe. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Polypipe-GFC100-FILLING-CEMENT-NATURAL/dp/B009NEC3IQ/ref=asc_df_B009NEC3IQ?

Does Kevin often use words that don't exist then?

Get that 'orrible beam(s) covered up asap I would.

I know we said only one present each but I couldn't resist this to slip into your stocking:

Managed to get your Chrimbo pressie in Lidl earlier today:

When originally solvent welded and leaking you should have used gap filling PVC cement. Now that you've applied Tiger Seal I'd stick with that. It should work if you can find the hole, even if wet. The PU sealants displace water so should be good. As for not being able to see / get around the back, well...fire up the Bambu! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4215459

Do not paint before tiling imo. No need. Just primer with tile primer or SBR as above. I seem to remember, when tanking my bathroom, that the kit came with a white liquid primer. For all the world it looked like standard tile primer. The instructions said if you run out (of primer), use SBR. Ergo tanking primer must basically be SBR.

For example: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5025331

3D print an over grille. Job done.

I recently went with Fusebox and tbh am impressed. My induction hob is on a B curve, 32A RCBO and it's fine.

I heard rumours of a planner's plans, plans that should never have been passed, getting "lost" within the planning office system. The plans were passed given the length of time they'd been "lost".

Think yourself lucky. I've a concrete slab and footings to shift. It has grano chip concrete with chain link fencing as the reinforcing.

If you have the time, once you've cut the pb out for the dry lining box then paint the cut edge with PVA and let it dry. It really does hold it all together and "harden" the exposed edge for the future. I use my multi tool now rather than a pad saw as an aside.

I imagine you'd forced it in too hard as usual.

Always found the point of a needle best for getting the little caps out. I remember being paranoid in case the kids/cat swallowed one. Some screw covers do have a slot for a small, watchmakers style, flat bladed screwdriver.

Good lad, fire up the CAD!

Print replacements you tart!

All councils generally have portals like this where you search for an application with just the postcode:

I remember. Still in your loft isn't it?

With the 3D printer now, making a "holder" for the drinking straws into which you can pour a sealant should be a doddle.

I'd use flexible tile adhesive and a full bed at that under the tray. As I'm slow I wouldn't use rapid set, just leave it for a couple of days. Not sure on the depth of the "recess" under the tray. If "deep" you can save on adhesive by bonding a cement board down first to take up some of the gap. You can get Aqua Panel for instance in 6mm. You'd have to cut it to go around the trap of course. Stick that down then more on top followed by the tray. Only what I've learnt on here. Standing on the shoulders of giants etc.

The Jet Blue Plus (other similar products are available) acts as both a seal and lubricant on brass compression joints. The fitting doesn't make that horrible squeak when doing it up and screws up a tad more.

Back it off smear with Jet Blue Plus & re tighten. Worked for me on an 8bar incomer. I use it religiously now on compression fittings. No messing around with PTFE tape. It just works and the joints never weep / go green.