Onoff

Would you screw on a joint like that? (I wouldn't).

I'm thinking a few more plasterboard nails wouldn't go amiss...

This will likely remove the silicone from the bricks. Worked for me when I made a mess:

Sorry but that looks like a quick bodge. Just had my roof done on an 1863 cottage. I'll let picture show the difference. Re-mortared (though probably not lime based as original): I have used buff coloured silicone mind, where my sliding gate posts project from the brick pillars. (This so the gate moving etc doesn't impact the pillar as much as if it were solid mortared). That would have been better than the white your lot used but still not right. This is what I used: https://www.toolstation.com/silicone-825/p93228

Every room's a whine room if my missus is in it.

An L shaped sleeper wall facing the sun forms a lovely heat store. Keeps giving into the evening along with a lovely whiff of creosote. I got this lot free. A mix of new and old sleepers. Used some for my raised veg patch. Thinking to do the same for this area: https://flic.kr/p/2oBUSzU

Not just elevated but inverted! 😂 Here you go. Guessing you'd need to apply for a dropped kerb whatever . Is that raised area "holding back" the house or could it be lowered level with the road / pavement?

https://www.plumbingsuperstore.co.uk/product/floplast-110mm-rainwater-reducer-110mm-x-68mm-sp96-p5820.html https://www.bes.co.uk/universal-rainwater-adaptor-25439/ I just searched "110 to 68mm adapter". I would try and use the same make if rigid plastic, not all "68mm" fittings are equal sort of thing. A rubber adaptor of another make will be more forgiving.

Isn't there a risk of encroaching on the 25, 50mm or whatever gap under the membrane doing that and thus comprising the air flow? (Don't get me wrong I love FM330).

3D print a black, snap on cover.

Aren't both pronouns a little assumptive? You know what these academics are like! "Their" would perhaps me more appropriate... 😉

Unfortunately the whole construction method has loads of non airtight "gaps", PIR against the timber, even timbers ostensibly butted up against each other. It all adds up.

Funnily enough I'm building one using the two motors off the two, 2-post lifts:

Exactly:

How much?

1/2" chain & sprockets. 18T for the small one, 36T for the big one.

Nah...convert to single phase, job's a good'un. Runs off a 13A plug. Done it twice now. 3rd one lined up.

I've a couple of lathe & plaster ceilings to take down. Need a respirator but don't want to pay 3M money. I've been recommended this "clone": https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005857155207.html However people are suggesting I then use genuine 3M filters in it. However I've also found these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ANUNU-Cartridges-Respirator-Chemical-Compatible/dp/B0B68R61L8?ref_=dslp_ap_dp Thoughts? Cheers

Edible dormouse: https://www.glis-glis.co.uk/roast-glis-glis-and-apple/

Measure it and I'll 3D print one in TPU if you like.

Something like this:

Comes with age that...

@SteamyTea was it you who mentioned the term I think "wind washing"? On the lines that cold air blowing around the cavity i.e the other side of the plasterboard just strips it of heat?

Have a look at this lad building as garage on rock: https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/stuff-you-have-made-today.67127/page-1462#post-2484267

Would adding Putty Pads to the sockets help cut down the air leakage through them? https://passivefireprotection.co.uk/socket-box-protection---ceukca-126-c.asp