Onoff

Be more @Pocster

Might be something here if a bit's broken: https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Geberit&page=1

🤔

I'd 3D print a jig.

Late to the party but 2 phase is pretty common in Europe. Typically oven wiring diagram. Options for single, two or three phase depending on the supply:

My mate, a niche industry steel fixer, had something on the lines of ".....clear site of any materials superfluous and/or deleterious to the fix". The main company he worked for would often mess up either over or under supplying parts. The times they over supplied he'd put it back in his stores. Meant he could grab anything they were short of that evening and sort the next day rather than going back to the firm with the associated hassle. Also if another contractor left a box of bolts or screws on his install it got removed and put back in his stores.

I'll bet Illbrück FM330 is a darn site more flexible at this junction where you could have settling/movement. It's like no other expanding foam tbh. Forms an airtight almost rubber like skin. Reassuringly expensive too.

A last resort is to hammer a small Torx screwdriver bit into the seized/rounded off hex of the grub screw. I've found a lot of those screws to made of very soft, Chinesium monkey metal.

Possibly Imperial Allen keys.

Just been told by our leccy supplier though they can fit a smart meter it will only act as a dumb meter as the phone signal is so bad down here. Means I can't take advantage of a lower EV charging tariff. Would the kit you use help?

Just jumping in here ref the SWA thing. I know zero btw about PV. Just upgraded the house to garage supply from 4 to 16mm² SWA. Gone from overhead to ducted/underground. I sized it for 1% voltage drop with a nod to future PV. The plan is PV panels on the garage, with the inverter & batteries there. Presumably the normal SWA between garage and house will be fine as that will only have AC on it?

Joking aside the worst thing I did was not use a tile levelling system.

Makes my tiling look good!

My dad, a British Gas pensioner always swore by their service back in the day. He had an oil boiler fitted to an old system that originally had a coal boiler. In the last few years it developed multiple issues, required loads of new parts etc. They tried making it a sealed system etc. At one point they even removed the mag filter that they had originally fitted. Utter farce.

Make sure you get boom swing if you get one.

I have spoken a couple of times to Darren down there. Kept trying to tie up to get down there but it never happened. They've had displays on at for instance The Kent Show, Edenbridge & Oxted too I think. Seem open and honest. I was at the same time looking at buying a Rippa direct from China, door to door with all duties etc came out circa £1000-1500 less than Buffalo. However as I was about to press the button Rippa's rep turned into a high pressure, bunny boiler esque deal trying to guilt me into buying. I ceased all contact. A bit light on the old readies front at the moment so it's on the back burner. Managed to get my BiL to do my recent digging. Tbh I don't really fancy going down there for someone else. I'll just rub in that I can't buy one! 😢

Any good? Supplier local 'ish to me in Maidstone. I was looking to get the 1.2T version but circumstances have changed: https://buffalomachines.co.uk/products/buffalo-b1800-mini-digger

CT1

"With hindsight I'd have knocked it down and started again".

Not what the OP is talking about as he's confirmed above. Again an aside to the thread but on the subject of back box earth terminals, where I've come across the odd one that's damaged I've drilled and fitted a Rivnut and ring crimp Broken screw: Rivnut tool: New earth termination vs old: Rivnut shown here on a loose back box just for clarity:

I think when zinc coated steel is cut, zinc oxide forms. This acts as a protective layer. Only really works on thin sheet edges. Same with a light scratch. Won't work on say the cut end of a galvanised RSJ. Best thing for that is a Zilt stick applied with a porta pack. Most now use so called "cold galv" out of a rattle can. Zinga is very good.

Roll a thin bit of card around the pipe and mark with a Sharpie. That'll give you a dead square cut line. Then use the hacksaw to follow the pen line, rotating the tube as you go. As in you're almost scoring it. Take it easy and the saw will follow the groove when you finally cut the tube.

I've used Illbrück expanding tape instead of Compriband. Seems good.

So the tanking appears to have worked?

I've got a 10mm² SWA running to the charger point. Then a 20mm flexible duct cable tied to the SWA with a Cat-6e in.