joe90

Not good enough IMO. Yes these are standard practice (I missed this earlier, glad @saveasteading is awake) at least it’s not too late to fit them. Instead of those little rafter brackets I would strap rafter to rafter on the outside over the top of the glulam with banding.

Because the poorest people live in the poorest houses and taxing them more would be seen as unfair (IMO). Council tax is a way of taxing more for the bigger houses but perhaps we need to differentiate BETTER houses that pollute less fir council tax bands.

Usually the plastic gives way due to sizure with hard water. Best to switch them on/off now and again to keep them working.

So you will gain room by reducing, at least, that 150mm. Same principle tho, leaky wall and plasterboard (however fixed) inside it. Our man @saveasteading has been there, done that, with good results so bodes well for you.

It’s a term used here when plasterboard is stuck on a wall rather than solid plaster but not properly so draughts exist behind it. As @saveasteading says above best infill those gaps. What are your intentions regarding finish.

Any cracks on the outside?

Talk about a plasterboard tent 🤷‍♂️, that’s crazy. It will keep you busy for a while.

Or one of these first…. https://www.toolstation.com/made4trade-washing-machine-tap-tee/p55176

I would ask the supplier exactly what “tying in” they recommend (I am not sure what they are trying to achieve).

If your going to all this trouble then why not fill the cavity with beads and have even more insulation?

Or these (my preferred type) https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-compression-washing-machine-valve-without-check-valve-15mm-x-3-4-/51231. If you don’t want to drain the water then a short length of copper pipe from the existing to the new ones will work.

Just another case of councils ineptitude however as said above this is about trespass. Solicitors letter giving a (short time) to remove if you will take them to court. Get the solicitor to check your proof of ownership just in case. Land registry?

However the bilge pump is a water pump not an air pump, better IMO to use an air pump (above bilge water level) to clear any co2 which will in effect drag air from outside at ceiling level or wherever to replace it and give ventilation rather than a fan pushing air into the living space which will not get rid of any co2 or other nasties.

Yes, if the membrane without tiles leak I would not be happy. This needs pointing out to your roofers on their return (don’t be fobbed off with “the tiles will sort that out.)

If turning off and on has cleared the fault then the fault was electrical giving a faulty diagnosis, if the gas valve was faulty then the fault would still be there on screen.

Well done a massive milestone in your journey.

Since CO2 is heavier than air, fatalities from asphyxiation have occurred when, at high concentrations, it has entered confined spaces such as tanks, sumps or cellars and displaced Oxygen. (Thinking outside the box…) is it worth a trickle fan extracting air (co2) from floor level where excessive co2 will be highest and incoming (trickle vents) at ceiling/window level 🤷‍♂️

Well the sink should not bend so timber support on the main bowl should suffice but not difficult to add a bit to support the smaller bowl as well 👍

So you have photos of these? In a previous. Do-er-upper I had a garage against the boundary and planned to demolish and rebuild but told they would only allow it half the size it was. I was however allowed to “repair it” so I repaired each wall separately even replacing timber with brick, I jacked the roof up doing this, then repaired the roof. I kept photos to prove its did exist. Frankly unless you have NIMBY neighbours who will dob you in it they are not likely to notice.

Yes CT1 is very good but being OCD I would want some sort of mechanical support with that potential weight. Even a timber support within the cupboard would be more than enough/considered.

HepvO can be installed vertically or horizontally, or any angle in-between. When installing horizontally a minimum allowable slope of 1/8” (3.175mm) per foot (30.48cm) must be maintained to ensure good drainage. This can be achieved by using the HepvO Angled Adapter supplied in the HepvO kit.

Don’t the traps have to be vertical? (Just asking as I know nothing about them and difficult to see from that pic which way is up).

What we’ll meaning advice do you consider nonsense ?

What kind of fuse is it? More modern stuff tests fir all sorts if conditions unlike the old thin melting wire jobby in my day 🥸

Yes I was thinking knockdown and rebuild properly And get the VAT back.