joe90

This was my point about setting different temps for the ASHP delivering to two different needs.

Regarding splitting the heating from DHW, I don't know enough about the controls and proDave on another thread has the same basic idea of providing both in his build like me but I wonder if you can deliver one temp to UFH and another to a hot water tank?

Mike, a very comprehensive piece above, i know I am in the same place trying to decide and future proof, however re Steamy Tea,s losses, he got his DHW standing losses down to quite near the phase change level by reducing DHW temp and lots of insulation. ( 1Kwh verses 0.6Kwh in think from memory but he will be along shortly to correct me ?)

Gimp, I wasted two and a half years fighting planning, wasted £1000 on a planning consultant who was rubbish. Don't be afraid to take it to appeal if you get refused. I wanted to build two story and the council wanted a bungalow or room in roof. The appeal process is not rocket science, in fact I was advised that if you use simplistic terms ( not too technical) then you stand a good chance. I hoped to win but with some small concessions but in fact I won on ALL points and had no concessions. The inspector even used some of my own words in her judgement. The inspector told the LPA that my build did fit with their policies ( suggesting that they did not interpret their own policies correctly). I did my appeal myself and cost me nothing but a little effort. Tip, the LPA are not allowed to dictate style!, my argument was that a "bungalow" is a style. I ended up with four planning applications trying to appease the LPA. But you are allowed two goes for one fee. Go for it. I can send you a link to the applications and the appeal if you want. J

Re your point of a cheap ASHP, mine was cheap but very proven technology as it's made by carrier of the states, the biggest manufacturer ( as far as I am aware), just cheap because the company who badged it decided to exit that particular market.

JSH had his ramp access to his back (side) door. And his build is now signed off.

Thanks but my question was " do I need barrier pipe for any part of a sealed system" from what I've read the barrier is in barrier pipe to stop oxygen getting in. So for example the pipes that feed the manifold from the ASHP do they need to be barrier pipe like the pipes in the floor?. Also what other pipes in heating systems or DHW systems should have barrier pipe?.

Anyone ?

@bpc ventilation Hi Gary and welcome, I will be self installing next year and have a question, on another forum a chap did his self install and was of the opinion that flow control at the plenum was better than at the room terminal because of possible air noise at the terminal? Can you comment please.

As far as weight is concerned I prefer 20oz, I find 16 oz to light to drive large nails but ok for panel pins etc.

Well I have had loads of hammers and my latest one is a fairly cheapie but it is a good as some more expensive ones I have had in the past. Screwfix item 7620c ( can't do links from my iPad) it's a forge steel and bright red ( difficult to loose) and only £11.99.

Slightly off topic but I am in a similar case with inland revenue, I retired in 2014 and started taking my private pension, since then they have told Me I failed to file a tax return which I believe I did. They have doubled and doubled the fine despite my appealing. They did however work out that I paid ( they took) too much tax so have sent me a cheque. Still waiting for a reply!

I have just run an external gas pipe ( LPG) and used the yellow plastic like above. Buried directly in the ground surrounded by sand.

I was going passive slab and do believe they are a very good idea especially for soft ground, however you will need an SE to sign it off as far as my building control was concerned.

Knock yourself out, I built my workshop before our build as I knew it would never get done afterwards, also both you and I will have a decent workshop to work from during our builds ( as long as it does not get filled with materials which is why I kept the container on site) .

It's just struck me that the COP of the ASHP in colder/damp weather is dependant on if it defrosts, is it not possible to get the ASHP to simply stop producing heat if it is about to defrost?. That way you could get hotter water if the weather is favourable and use the inline heater if it's cold/damp?

Thanks guys for all this info, a lot to take in, keep it coming .

Dear all, now the builders are laying bricks it's time for me to plan details. Generally, like pro Dave, I will be using an ASHP to drive UFH downstairs via a buffer tank and also to heat a DHW tank ( to a temp of 40-45 degrees only to save defrost cycles with the ASHP and excess heat losses from the well insulated DHW tank). As per JSH,s original idea I will install a modulating inline electric water heater to boost DHW should it need it due to hoards of visitors or simply not enough hot water in the tank. I am hoping to run the ASHP on E7 to get the slab and DHW tank up to temp overnight and only switch it on during the rest of the day if required. We are having a woodstove ( small, efficient, room sealed) in the lounge as both err indoors and I love real flames ( this is not negotiable?) and should give heat during cold evenings. I am also tempted to run a hot water feed from the buffer tank to the loft in case we use a wet duct heater for the MVHR. I will also be running cables there in case we use resistance heating instead. with regard to the hot water cylinder I have read that sealed systems are more efficient than vented systems although they need signing off I have a tame plumber/neighbour who will do this for me. The inline heaters come in 9.6 Kw or 12Kw, any advise on which is more applicable in this situation? In short I would welcome any advise as I am capable of plumbing but not a plumbing designer. joe90

I am lucky as I have a builder sorted and he has started but I hear from many that everyone is busy in the building trade, well at least down here in Devon.

Now I have planning ( and the builders are laying bricks) I am trying to plan "my stuff". From the above can I take it that it would be best if I use leftover barrier pipe from the UFH to connect the ASHP in any sealed system " non vented tanks" also should I use barrier pipe for the 22mm feed and return from the manifold as this is sealed?

Sorry you had such crap, perhaps we were lucky, the inspector (I think) just saw sense that our original plan was a reasonable build that fitted in locally.

The council website shows we successfuly won our appeal, not sure they will also send us notice ( not holding my breath). Basically, no. The only conditions are the ones that came with application number 4, (the bungalow and garage just to get us started) they were, root protection zone ( already fenced). Blocking off old access and using new access ( we will block the old access when the new access is fully usable. There was also a condition by the council ( for the bungalow) that said we must install two bat boxes as well as the ones I built into the garage but the appeal inspector pointed out ( as per my appeal) that the ecologist that the council made us employ said that the three bat boxes built into the garage roof was sufficient for the whole site. So ya booo to the council on all grounds. ?

Don't talk to me about planners!!!! Personally I would take them to task, you could always do the wickes door trick if that failed.

You are so right, this forum has kept me going in planning all the details from the great wealth of knowledge I have gained here,I can now get on with actually doing the work. thanks everyone john

Nor do I, I know I have just won my appeal but it has taken two and a half years and thousands of pounds, not to mention the stress. Pester the Life out of them, I am fed up with jobsworths thinking they can do what they want because of their interpretations of the rules. As a tax payer they are in your employ, don't forget it.