joe90

Hi Temp, did you have pumice liner and insulation , then did you have concrete/brick around that? I can see that a pumice liner would not suck heat out of the gasses so much and so presumably the fire would draw faster. We are only having a small stove and not have it lit for extended periods so wonder if it's not worth the expense ( double that of concrete liners).

Thanks guys, is there any statistics that show clay or pumice is worth the expense?

Yes mate, I had read this. The Dunbrick site is great Peter, a good place to start. But I would still like to know if clay or pumice is worth the extra expense?

Without opening a can of worms on the merits of wood burning stoves and pollution, like a few of you on here, we are having a small, efficient wood burning stove ( room sealed ) but have the following question. Our builder was going to use concrete liners in a brick and block chimney but I see that pumice or clay liners are more expensive and so I presume more "efficient". My question is if the liner is insulated with Leica within the brick/block build is the extra expense of pumice or clay worth it?.

I too just don't like dot and dab anyway but it would be ok if the void under the shelf was fully filled. Re resin studs I have fixed large oak shelves/ mantles with threaded rod and resin and its very solid and looks great without brackets.

Thanks ST. Actually I am not one to always insure everything, I believe in assessing risk and don't mind taking a gamble. Insurance companies main aim is to make money (for themselves). Having looked at that site I wonder why you need public liability if the public are not allowed on your site ? My main contractor has his own insurance for his chaps and his kit ( and public liability). I would like to insure my workshop and the tools in it but the stuff outside is not worth insuring in my opinion, nor is my old caravan.

Welcome and good luck, my dumper is useless and my digger uses more hydraulic oil than diesel but it's the best fun ever to play with ?.

Well, I never was one for maths ?, I have not done a PHPP , insulation will be very good for a temperate climate down in Devon , air tightness will be good (I hope), ASHP should be adequate ( cheap from EBay) , MVHR will be oversized ( and cheap from EBay) so it should run quietly and efficiently, we are having a wood burning stove 1/ because we both love the caveman feel ( and er indoors gets cold) 2/ emergency heating in case of power failure or arctic conditions. ( and we are very rural and surrounded by free wood). Some on here may think me bonkers, some have worked out their heat load etc to one degree, I don't fancy a house that clinical. I have planned a house with lots of thermal mass ( sorry Jeremy!) to iron out the temperature changes. Time will tell.

I also am struggling with site insurance, no one wants to insure a house till it's finished, I can't even get insurance on my finished workshop!!! Currently I am taking a gamble and not insuring but understand the risk, luckily it's a very rural area with a low crime rate.

Like Neil above I use firmahold for my paslode and they are much cheaper than paslode nails, no problems with quality.

Just from my own logical approach I am planning to put our extract furthest from the door so it extracts from the shower, bath and toilet, it also drags the input air ( from under the door) across the whole room diagonally which I think will be better. ( this is based on pure logic and no actual experience on MVHR design.

ST may say I am misquoting him but I am sure he reduced his cylinder loss to nearly that of the sunamp unit! Tony says that heat loss from the cylinder in winter only helps heat the house and if that is well insulated it's not really a loss. I intend putting my tank in a well insulated cupboard so I have an "airing cupboard" ( as her indoors likes warm aired towels). I am tending to think 250-300 litres will be sufficient for our needs ( but will continue to read here.

Perhaps inline heater in the summer and immersion in the winter?.

Rather than run an immersion all day when guests arrive I plan an inline 9 or 12 Kw electric heater to cope with excess demand. It seems a shame to heat hot water than may not be used.

Perhaps they were thinking of you!!!, not getting mud trampled indoors if they can access their van directly????

Trouble is money in the bank does not earn you anything nowadays.

Makes interesting reading, well done. Where ( if anywhere) can you get a report on a specific manufacturers product, I.e. The one from Screwfix?

Just had a look at the manufacturers website and they make 3and 4 amp versions. I guess it's alright if you know it will be slow if both ports used on this one.

Just had a look at the reviews and some complaints as the 2.1A output is shared so charging can be very slow if two devises charged at the same time, um, not sure. I only looked at this because my new phone won't charge properly from the charger from my last phone and my daughter tells me this is a common problem.

I always used to fit a piece of thick carpet over thresholds whilst working on site, seemed to work well, ( can't shut the door tho!)

This is is what my planning consultant did and she was ex local authority?

As some of you will know I have been fighting for planning for two and a half years ( and finally won?) But throughout that time I have been shifting earth, clearing rubbish, trimming trees and clearing ditches DESPITE a horrible neighbour that phoned the enforcement officer every time I started the JCB up. In the end I used to message the enforcement officer explaining every little thing I was doing. He never stopped me and told me my neighbour was a pain in his ass.

I think it really depends on your local planning lot ( or neighbours that might drop you in it) if you were just to clear the brambles etc and perhaps level the site what can they do?, even if they "caught you" just apologise say you didn't realise " gardening" was classed as development, by the time they get round to writing to you it will be January anyway ?

That's the reason I decided to not bother with RHI.

Yes I used some like that a few years ago and was not impressed at all, dead easy to strip the head. Nice looking roof ?. Interesting to see the fixings in the raised profile, my garage roof is fixed in the flat section ( yes counter intuitive) but I confirmed with the supplier it was the right way to do it.