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Everything posted by joe90
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Welcome, We also had bats and the planners tried to make us do even more than the ecologist recommended!!! Winning at planning appeal to the Secretary of State put the council In their place telling them they were not qualified to over rule the ecologist. Still cost us a year and ££££
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Right (getting cross now). I have changed parameter 100 from 1 (fixed water temp, dry contacts) to 3 (climatic curve no 3 using dry contacts) to see if it will up the temp at all.
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Ha, just checked and the room stat temp was reached (we are having a cold snap, the wife has a cold so topped the house up with a heater). Have upped the room stat temp to 30’ and the ASHP fired up. But it’s still only achieving 25’ !!!!. In fairness 25’ is ok to feed the UFH bit it does not provide a chunk of hotter water to provide a “buffer” which is what a buffer tank is for. Plus I want to know why it’s not doing what it’s told. No, not that I can find.
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Ha, it’s just turned itself off, no error codes so I suppose it’s fulfilled it’s heating requirement, but it’s not 40’ !!!!!, still 25 -26.
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Thanks @JSHarris, gosh I wish you well with your removal, there is no rush as I am also multitasking. I am not dealing with DHW at the mo so I can concentrate on just one thing at a time. After an hour of heating with the ASHP with no manifold pump running (hoping to charge the buffer to the required 40’) flow and return are still running at 25’. ?
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I have once again checked all the parameters (to make sure I did not make a silly mistake) and heating set point is now 40’. I have installed temp readers on flow and return from the buffer tank and both read 25’. The ASHP is running (but not hard) and I will give it an hour or two to see if it changes.
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The manifold pump was on but the slab is up to temp, I have switched the manifold pump off so the buffer should store heat, presumably the 40’ (or near) that I set the command unit too?.
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I hope not ?
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Yes, I did see this but mine appears different, I set 100 to 1 (dry contacts), I don’t have a 112 or 117 and 116 thro 126 don’t appear. I also changed 302 from 1 (heat and cool) to 2 (heat only). Perhaps it might be worth trying to set a heating curve, perhaps 3 (max 45’).?
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I left it running over night into a 90 litre buffer tank, I thought if you specified a set water temp it would get up to that eventually? I don’t know the flow rate but the wilo pump is set at 3 out of max 6 (mid range) if it’s too slow the ASHP switches of and error code 9 which is lack of flow rate. What set water temp have you specified? I don’t have a return temp thermostat, I will put one in and see.
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......stop press...... finally got the ASHP running, left it overnight but the thermometer on the output only shows 25’ despite the command unit specifying 40’??? Not put it into DHW mode yet as I wanted it to settle down to make sure it ran ok. Will do checks today to see what if anything is wrong.
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@newhome And there’s me thinking you would give me grief for doing that.!!!! well the good news is that the stat works (not blown up with the board) and I have successfully modified it to be dry contact (no voltages) who,s a clever boy then ?
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Estate Car to carry house doors inside, flat
joe90 replied to Ferdinand's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
I have one for my estate, very essential.- 77 replies
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Also it’s very easy to up the temp so er indoors will be doing this as soon as I turn my back, the Wunda is more difficult to understand ?
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Right, my new computherm stat has arrived, but, (am I getting OCD ?), it’s ugly, if it was in a cupboard I would not mind but it’s eye level in the hallway and I like the look of the Wunda stat (that blew up my ASHP main board). SO, I have taken the Wunda stat apart to see if I can make it a dry contact operation and I think I can, ( plus the computherm came with no instructions on fitting or programming???), and boy do I need instructions ?. Wish me luck.
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I feel for you, you may remember our bat fiasco (and the cost to us!). Our planning department didn’t take any notice of the ecologists report and tried to contradict it (even tougher measures). Luckily our appeal (which we won hands down) agreed with us and told the council in no certain terms it was not for them to over ride the ecologists as they were not qualified to do so. When my kids were growing up I told them not to complain that life was not fair, it’s not, deal with it. Although it sticks in your throat (it would mine) perhaps your better concentrating on furthering your project knowing you did it right. Best not to waste energy on the past.
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Torx concrete screws: are they the same as framing screws?
joe90 replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Tools & Equipment
And make sure the hole is deep enough, nothing worse than bottoming out thinking the fixing is tight.- 17 replies
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I intend to use the ASHP for the DHW as well, may need direct lecky to top up the temp but there are some on here that don’t need to . If you have an ASHP why not use it if only to prewarm the DHW.
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Torx concrete screws: are they the same as framing screws?
joe90 replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Tools & Equipment
I used these to fix my stairs to the wall, never used them before and was well impressed, nearly hurt my wrist with the torque.- 17 replies
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+1.
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I am running An ASHP for UFH with a buffer tank (which has an immersion as a back up). The ASHP will also do our DHW with maybe inline or immersion topup (if required). Yet to use the system over a winter so will see how it goes.
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What is the best pipework system for a life inside the wall?
joe90 replied to MikeSharp01's topic in General Plumbing
The only failures I have heard of is when the pipe is scratched before fitting, not allowing the o ring to sit properly. I was taught to protect the pipe where fittings were to go. -
What is the best pipework system for a life inside the wall?
joe90 replied to MikeSharp01's topic in General Plumbing
I must admit I ran 10mm for hot feeds to basins and the flow rate is excellent. -
What is the best pipework system for a life inside the wall?
joe90 replied to MikeSharp01's topic in General Plumbing
I have gone all hep20 in my new build, the only 90’ bends are on the back of the shower valves built into the wall. The advantage of plastic is long runs with no joins or restrictions given by tight 90’ bends (unless you need a couple like me). I was a copper only plumber till I used hep20 and heard about how good it was from @Nickfromwales.
