joe90

Depends on what you put on the shelves weight wise! In the past I have cut a 4” square from the plasterboard, slid an 8” batten behind and covering the hole, plasterboard screws above and below the hole holding it, refit the cutout and fill and paint. You then have a short batten to screw to.

I believe PIR insulation is not too good at sound insulation and metal roofing can be noisy, that would be my worry. Then sack him and find one that works for you!!!

There was a programme on the TV about this and various types were tested (I can’t remember stainless being one tho) and value for money ordinary composite came out best and I agree, it’s fairly easy to replace and trends change so updating does not cost the earth. A mottled non high gloss finish I have found best for keeping clean and tidy.

I have lived in two statics during renovation then build, I was on my own during both (which helps) first one had a W/M in the van and the whole damn caravan shook when it was on spin, second one I R@R at weekends back in the house I was yet to sell which had the W/M etc (Van was really site facilities but ok for me to live In during the week.). I am sure with family it’s a different story and one that depends on the ability to slum it for a while for the greater good of completing a self build. My electricity and water was well over 100ft away, no problem, when the van was removed they became an outside socket and tap in the garden.

Insulation is not a planning matter it’s a building regulations matter 🤷‍♂️

In my situation (very rural) no history of flooding locally (but @saveasteading is right, it all ends up downstream where flooding may occur), I was on very solid yellow clay so any drainage field would not work, the ditch I used carried all the surface and small amount of treated water away.

If you sort stuff before going into a skip they can do it cheaper (soil etc in one, timber in another, it saves them sorting it).

I used the same insulation in a 200mm cavity brick outer and full fill and as you say it has a bba certificate, the bricklayer was not convinced but didn’t argue and BC were fine with it. It was a fairly exposed location and the western wall facing the coast got soaked. When core drilling the wall for the ASHP I found the outer wall wet through but the insulation did not wick anything into itself. I did coat the one wall with waterproofer after but to protect the bricks more than the insulation.

My discharge was to a ditch (dry in summer months but with a rumble drain) but this then went into a surface water drain in the road then to a water course and this was allowed (England).

I have found driving a match or matches or even a carved piece of wood into a loose rawlplug very effective and can give an even tighter fit than just a rawlplug at times specially if the hole is rough.

Drive a couple of matchsticks (without the red bit 🤷‍♂️) into the hole in the rawlplugs and try again,

But surely you don’t have to export. PV,s can be disconnected, (unlike solar thermal panels).

Or here in the UK. https://www.abebooks.co.uk/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=30366737617&dest=gbr&

Good for you, not everyone does this. If I were to build again (after years of reading about the many options on here ) i would stick frame with cellulose blown insulation. Personally I don’t like plastic type insulation (unless it’s the only option i.e under slab).

In my little cottage (with a combi boiler next to the sink) I wash up using a kettle fir hot water (if I don’t use the dishwasher) the combi is 28Kw and the kettle 3Kw and the kettle boils quicker than the combi can supply hot water to wash up. 🤷‍♂️

If posts are driven down the back of the sleepers and fixed at the top this will resist any leverage. Just don’t put horizontal timbers that can be used as a ladder by the kids, vertical picket style much safer (and prettier IMO).

That’s what I did.

But of course you will 👍

What are you building the pump house out of? Granite.

Have you ever heard the expression “saving a ship for a he peth of tar”? Look it up.

Why am I not suprised you posted that 🤣

I had not heard of those!!!! With my similar workshop roof I used tek screws on the flat sections and short ones on the crowns to hold the sheets together only (Cladco who supplied the sheets supplied info on how to fix). The only thing I did different was to use a membrane under the battens (like a tiled roof) to stop leaks or condensation in the building (worked very well).

Lots of scotia is MDF which will turn to pulp if steamed.

With my welding I need an angle grinder to tidy it up afterwards 🙄

I think with the arrival of multiple delivery firms and not just the Royal Mail competition has led to better services.