joe90

? fingers crossed mate.

Well done, let’s hope they are better than planners at getting of their asses and doing something !

Sorry typo, 200mm PIR ? (Corrected)

Right I have decided how to plump the cylinder etc as per above, electrics next, I cannot find a diagram how to wire the manifold pump, the room stat on the Kingspan diagram is low voltage dc , mine is ac driving the manifold pump directly so I need to change that, but how do I power the manifold pump?, relay from the room stat? But if the DHW is activated at the same time then the manifold pump operates without hot water? answers on a post card to joe90……..

Which usually is the top rail coming from the boiler, lower rail return.

Welding lead (lead burning) is an art in itself, if your selling, what with the scrap price of lead and copper and the fact a “new roof” might clinch a sale, it might be prudent and cost effective to renew it. Food for thought !

I am not an expert but mine is pressurised to 1 or 2 bar, this surely stops cavitation (as long as enough water is available) I do know of cavitation with outboard motor propellers!

No wonder that dial melted ?

My temp gauges on my manifold (Wunda) just pull out of a pocket, if yours are the same just swop them round to measure the input temp

Less than 1 metre of 22mm pipe and a few bends and joints, hardly major, just a re jig.

If it were me I would replace the lot with GRP.

+1, always worth a try.

Not sure 150mm is enough! I have 200mm PIR and some here have 300mm EPS always go more with insulation, you only buy it once, electricity/oil/gas you buy forever and at increasing cost.

Correct, it’s hot water not reaching the UFH manifold. No, there is a pump from the ASHP and another at the UFH manifold already. shame about spending £150 on antifreeze ? but hey I don’t have to pay a plumber to do the work ?‍♂️

That makes perfect sense (and I understood it ?) just need to sort my wiring out (and buy shed loads of antifreeze).

Thanks @Temp and @ProDave that is the answer, well done. I am still ploughing through my old wiring as I can’t remember what I did ?, I must draw a proper diagram and schematic. ?

Thanks mate, I am giving it some thought before I dive in but I like your idea (might be easier for my plumbing). My only issue is letting the room stat call for heat from the ASHP rather than just starting the manifold pump as I have no direct wiring (hence my new thread about remote switching. ) I am ploughing through my old wiring diagram to get my head around what I did ?. i was wondering if I did this below, my worry is when heating is required if I have to heat the buffer tank before the manifold gets the heat then heating is delayed, the diagram below allows the buffer to add the volume and act as a bypass and the heat from the ASHP will get to the manifold quicker. Am I mad (don’t answer that).

Thanks @ProDave, only problem I have is it needs to also switch the manifold pump which is in a different location so I was going to put the wireless switch next to the manifold pump (and hopefully be mains driven as I hate batteries?) so when the room stat turns on the pump the wireless bit fires up the ASHP ?

As some of you will have seen I am having problems with my UFH and need to change the way it’s designed, this raises a problem in that I have no wiring from the room stat to the ASHP bit went to the UFH manifold) but I need to signal between the two. I have heard of kinetic switches, is their a product you would recomend to do this fir me?

Oh yes, my last house had pebble dash and squirrels used to run all round the house (outside) on the pebbledash.

Just been to see a neighbour who is a plumber and fits ASHPs, I explained my problem and he says most don’t have buffer tanks nowadays and work very well. So who out there has UFH without a buffer tank? I am tempted to remove the tank and see how it works,. The only problem I have is I have no wire between the room stat and the ASHP to call for heat, is there a wireless option (kinetic?). This also means I can re instal the TRV on the manifold and remove the blanking on the bypass/NRV that I installed. Opinions please.

I used a main contractor (apart from the work I did myself) it was his responsibility to arrange subbies to fit with his timescales and quality, you might find trades people hard to find that fit with your timescales.

Been there, done that and got an earful from er indoors, I would build anything first then carpet around/in it.

Well done @Nickfromwales, yes it’s been a long while and so much has been going on since. I do remember the buffer was to separate both water volumes so antifreeze was only required in the ASHP loop. I always (assumed) the buffer worked like the DHW tank I.e. heat input via the coil ?. Yes I have two filling loops. It was only noisy till it was bled completely.

Is it any wonder planners have such a bad rep?