joe90

Actually I find solar panels on a roof ugly and would not want them on my pretty cottage, I had planning for them on my garage roof but would still not like the look. an ASHP is not very big and can easily be hidden behind some timber screening as long as air flow is maintained.

Thanks, yes, turned out to be a duff (designed) bypass valve on the manifold letting too much cold water pass so could never get the loops up to temp. I am sure the manifold would work with a gas or oil boiler as the incoming water would be much hotter, blocked it off and plumbed a proper blending valve into the pipework.

Not surprising as they look exactly the same!

But if the metal of the ASHP gets solar radiation surely the frost 0has less chance. My car is usually parked in the shade first thing in the morning and when frosty it lasts fir hours. I had to use the car early one morning so the previous night I moved it out of the shade of the house and by the time I left it was fully defrosted.

I tend to agree, mine is on the west side of the house so gets no sun in the morning when it’s been frosty and I am sure if it was on the east side the morning sun may help stop defrosting early in the morning as the sun would warm the metal a little.

You don’t have to say which Christmas ?‍♂️

? even our Jeremy had trouble understanding the controller for our (re badged ) carrier unit, I did not have a cat In hells chance but Jeremy did help me out (mainly because he not only understood that sh1t but he had time to play with his and work out what it meant.) apart from basic settings I don’t use mine and like Jeremy use a basic room stat. edit, as an aside I don’t have a flow meter on mine, how can I make sure my water pump is at the optimum speed?

Not with a caravan on the back ?

401?

welcome, above could not be more true but you will get lots of views on how it could be done with some real world “been there got the tee shirt”, this worked but this didn’t. Remember that there is no such thing as a stupid question, stupid is not asking.

Can you give dimensions of the cable and length so the boffins on here can work out potential load limit?

Lots of plans on tinternet, get quotes and see if they stack up!

I have no actuators, one zone and 5 loops, just increased flow in the lounge that we want a tad warmer .

Would not adjusting flow rates at each loop control this?

My ASHP only has one temp setting, it does not have separate DHW and heating temps. As above only one temp setting available and any lower and DHW temps suffer. I have no idea what my COP is! My recent set up seems ok and no short cycling observed in fact in the short time since setting it up the ASHP appears to be ticking over when the heating is running so keeping up with demand rather than on off.

+1, you only replaced/repaired the existing path, not hard standing. Play hardball and let them prove otherwise, solicitors (in general) will find every means to get more money out of you (or them) If the buyer gets funny over such a small thing find another buyer.

My heat pump only heats to one temp and that I set at 45’ to cope with DHW. The buffer stat is set at 35’ (which calls fir heat from the ASHP), and the manifold blends down to 30’.

Yes that is why I installed one, I was just pointing out that it’s does not last long before the stat calls for more heat.

Now come on @PeterW, don’t hold back, speak your mind !!! I concur, with my recent problems I found the blending/bypass built within the manifold not fit fir purpose and as advised here i bought a “proper” blending valve and blanked the one in the manifold, yes the buffer does not last long at all when the UFH is on and it needs to be above the floor temperature a bit. I am still trimming mine and it’s working well now.

“No new hard standing, always existed”. ?‍♂️ (Prove me wrong!). As per @ProDave above.

Mine is next to the manifold but I guess it could be at the buffer. ?‍♂️

I was told once that some repair engineers won’t work on appliances if they cannot isolate them before starting work, not sure if it’s true, when I used to fit kitchens I preferred to put a socket in the adjacent cupboard ?

It was a duff designed bypass built into the manifold that caused the problem. Blanking it off and installing a “proper” temp mixing valve sorted it ( after I balanced the two pumps etc).yes a decent mixing valve is essential IMO.

Indeed I did, the coil was not transferring enough heat into the buffer, but it was heated by an ASHP which tends to heat at a cooler temp. I abandoned the coil and made it direct and with a decent mixer it now works much better ?(thanks to @PeterW).

Bugger, just when I thought all was well, filled up with antifreeze/inhibitor and notice the flow gauges are less than they were. Wunda say 2 to 2.5 for a 100m loop, even with the pump at max (6) I can only get the loops up to 1.5. I tend to believe that the over blending that was happening with the original set up would not have caused the problem with say a gas boiler chucking 60’ water at it. Now I am trying to feed it with 30’ water it’s failing to perform. I wonder if the TRV type valves at each end (left fully open) are causing a flow restriction. ?