joe90

Here is a pic from the internet that I followed but, the internal DPC was lowered to floor level as my builder says if it’s still that high it causes a slip plane above the skirting, to mitigate this he inserted a second DPC on the outside skin 15pmm above ground level. The whole house is surrounded by a French drain anyway because of the high water table

No, standard strip founds.

Yes longer ties off the shelf, I used concrete internal skin lintels and brick arches for the outer, no thermal bridging. my founds were dug with a standard bucket but driver widened them as required to non standard width.

Gosh can’t remember but rockwall insulation batts 100mm x2 staggered. My builder was not sure about full fill but they had a BBA certificate for this. After the build was finished the west wall got soaked through winter rains and when I core drilled fir the ASHP pipes I found the insulation had not absorbed the wet at all even though the bricks were soaked. I have since treated the bricks just in case.

Hi Ben and welcome to THE forum, loads of knowledge here, don’t forget there is no such thing as a stupid question, stupid is not asking!. Bring in the questions.

This is exactly what I used, full fill in a brick/block cavity, BBA certificate, and I know damp does not migrate across it (damp penetration of brickwork, but not across insulation after building) also it’s not a petro chemical product which I prefer not to use (but had to under the concrete floor as rockwall would collapse 😱.)

HERE HERE!! 👍

The only problem with unused u bends is they might dry out (so put a bung in after the BCO has visited) 🙄.

Why not? They are only temporary!

I put sheets of ply in “regions” allocated for wall hung stuff, with the best planning in the world (and a good memory) it’s difficult to decide on exact positions till it’s nearly finished. Sit on the toilet and decide where exactly you want the loo roll to be 🤷‍♂️.

Oops, posted in error

Nah, you need to take most of it up, the odd stone will be ok.

The problem is that the old voice network was never designed for data, I worked on the original roll out of ADSL, being rural like me can be a real issue with lots of cable joints and cables not in straight lines to the exchange. Fibre is the only way forward but unlikely in the near future fir remote users. Yes, complain like mad and become a pain in the ass!!

I can’t remember exact details but I did my own appeal and had contact details of the office dealing with it, did you do your own?, if you got someone to do it for you they should have the details or be able to contact them for you!

Welcome to THE self build forum, lots of real world advise here (been there, done that ) ask away and I am sure others will be grateful for your advise as well. Can’t wait to see plans and pictures.

When I did my appeal (and won 👍) I was told to expect an answer in a couple of months, however Covid has probably created a backlog 🤷‍♂️.

Well it depends on what you want, re wilding is becoming popular now but it’s not everyone’s cup of tea. I have a spotless lawn (mostly) but I have areas of long grass with all sorts growing.

Yes, staple it tight to the ends a bit big, build it into the wall then afterwards unstable it, glue/pin it to the wall about an inch only and plaster over it to create an airtight barrier.

Great minds think alike 👍, it needs to be thin and flexible . I worry (like your builder) about building in “slip plains” ?

Wrap the ends in something non permeable then plaster it onto the wall 🤷‍♂️

Then your only option is to use counter battens of some sort or hardboard strips along all joists!!! (nowhere on my build has any screws popped). Others will be along shortly with their input, @nod ?

Having a buffer won’t give you a single zone. I only have one zone simply by controlling the water temp to that whole manifold and no actual loop controllers (apart from balancers for those loops).

IMO a couple of mm will not cause problems in either case. Plasterboard and flooring is flexible enough to cope with any deformation of that small amount. In engineering terms it would not be acceptable with steel which is not that flexible. In my floors upstairs the boards were fixed with d4 glue and no nails or screws and that fills any small voids anyway.

Actually I don’t know what screed my builder used but from reading I believe so, others here might know better @Nickfromwales ?

Well I was advised to have a buffer tank and others here have not installed one, one advantage of a buffer tank is having an immersion but this could be replaced with a Willis heater if no tank is installed. Others will be along shortly with their views!