Russell griffiths

Are you not supposed to do a lightbulb bend so you get a larger radius bend so no kinks but it still fits 150 pipe centres.

That’s a @Nickfromwales question I personally probably wouldn’t do that. what happens to any movement at that junction. Are there going to be steps built out that the bends can be hidden in, what’s going on the upstands. needs a side view drawing and a scrap bit of pipe to check the bend radius.

No need for an insulation upstands if using eps icf blocks, you already have an insulated upstand it’s what the walls are built of. ditch the insulation upstand and fold the dpm up the walls, use the foam expansion strip around the screed area, once screed is in trim the foam back and use some cheap sealant to seal between the screed and eps.

Get some neoprene insulation material 100mm wide, wrap this around the soil pipes at screed level. 2 wraps around will leave you with a void around the pipe so when the screed is in and dry you will either have a bit of wiggle room on the pipe, or you have the ability to pull the neoprene out which leaves a void that a pipe coupling will fit into. as for sealing them you will be putting your dpm on top of the beam n block so you seal the pipes to that.

No drain on it just a simple pop riveted box.

Ah you think we might get condensation inside the heater box thing. .?

IMG_6736.mov I’ve got a pre heater fitted on my mvhr ducting on the fresh incoming air, I’ve decided to run cool water through it from the cool water that’s going through the floor, it’s dropped the incoming air temp by 10 degrees. what’s your opinion worth doing ? should I ramp the mvhr to push the air around quicker or is it a bit pointless as mvhr moves so little air about I’m wasting my time. thoughts people.

Just pretend you are wrapping the wife’s Christmas presents.

Turn the membrane upwards against the outer side of the outer leaf of blockwork, then lay your driveway up against it.

Why are you worried about it using a lot of pipe, pipe is cheap, fittings not so. 3-4 rolls of 50m will see it all done.

Lay the floor flat and level, ramping it up at the door will look like dog shit, you will see it, you will notice it on the skirting around that reveal. 10-12mm step up is absolutely fine at that cill area.

Find a used one on Facebook. a straight flight new will be a couple of hundred quid.

We had the local council tax lady round she suggested a band we are happy with, a month later the valuation office have moved us up a band, we are currently disputing this with the valuation office. we pay for too much as it is.

If you have the top hats then use them they work. the problem is these things get designed on a computer by a bloke who wouldn’t know what end of a trowel to hold. on site you very rarely get perfect conditions as you have found out with the pipe collar being exactly where you need to seal it. so you will probably find you chuck a couple of top hats away and just use more tape. Hardly heath robinson this one, it’s just done, finished move on get the concrete on top and it will become a distant memory.

Stop trying to reinvent this job. sealing around the service pipes is easy. you do not try and cut a hole in the membrane and seal that to the pipe. cut a 300mm hole in the membrane, poke it over the pipe, then cut a 600 mm square of extra membrane, cut a 120 mm hole in the centre, poke it over the pipe and tape it up, then tape your patch down to the main sheet. easy, each pipe penetration will take 15 mins max. why buy two membranes to do one job. if your finish concrete is rough the pir insulation won’t give a monkeys it will just deform to the shape of the slab when it has 15 tonne of screed on top of it.

I think you should go the standard route. hardcore, concrete ,insulation , screed, finished floor. this method gives you the ability to juggle finished floor height. without wanting to sound like a wa##er you have had a few problems so far, if you get the concrete height wrong by 15mm when going for the final finish height this is going to totally bugger you up with door cill heights and all manner of other things. especially as you have finished brickwork outside. stick to putting a screed on top of the insulation so that level can be worked out at a later date when doors are in and you have a better idea on floor finishes. building 15mm up with self leveling compound over 100m will be a major ball ache if you change from tiles to LVT, but it’s easy to get the screeders to add another 15mm when they do their bit.

The door is always the weak spot, makes soundproofing the wall seam pointless, especially with a 10mm gap under the door.

No room for that the whole building is only 6mx6m and it’s only a holiday let so only slept in for 4-5 consecutive nights. just looking at a cheap n cheerful solution. probably easier to just buy a couple of packs of acoustic insulation and chuck it in. trying to save a fiver here and there.

This is exactly what I have done in the house. im just thinking plasterboard is cheap if I buy a pack, and double boarding is easy if I’m already doing it and the screw gun is out.

Stud wall between a bedroom and an en-suite bathroom. 90mm timber studs. insulate inbetween studs or double plasterboard both sides. this is a holiday lodge we have so the only noise will be hearing the wife dropping the kids off at school. I think bang for my buck double boarding is cheaper.

If it’s for those 3 windows in your pic I would go for shutters on a sliding rail above the window like an old barn door sliding mechanism thing. I think it would fit that exterior perfectly.

I do agree the tiles are a bit plumb colour but if you want the same colour throughout then you need to pick a RAL colour if you look on the chart there are probably a couple of hundred blacks. and the same with grey. stand further away and take a pic.

A quick google just brought up a dozen companies making hinges just for shutters. most available through Amazon if in the good ol US of A

Could you use parliament hinges. or go to france and buy what they use, they have a crank in the arm to kick the shutter out. order a set online then get your local blacksmith to knock something up. depends how rustic you want it. very common in Europe.

Regarding the stainless steel. isn’t it the fixings that need to be stainless not the hardware. I could not see how a galvanised hinge would be a problem fitted to the face of a shutter if stainless screws that penetrate the timber are used. why not do some experiments in the garden with some off cuts.