Russell griffiths

If you have imperial spaced icf then you need to hang your plasterboard American style which is horizontal, not vertical.

Having removed thousands of metres of ivy from all sorts of structures over the years I wouldn’t say this is the worst idea I’ve heard of. You will need a robust frame work as it can become very heavy. I have only seen building damage occur if the building was in a poor state to start or the ivy was left unchecked. for example poor pointing on brickwork, or the ivy getting under the gutter and behind the facia, I’ve seen thousands of pounds worth of damage in these instances. you would need to build into your life a yearly trim, this would need to be the entire face and would involve getting onto the flat roof and cutting back from the copings. i would want it cut with a 200-300 mm clear strip of blockwork showing below the parapet coping, allowing it to get under the coping could be disastrous. you could build in a metal flashing at this level as a boundary.

In the kitchen I put 18 mm osb and didn’t use any plasterboard, the gap between the lower cabinets and the wall cabinets has a splashback that is fixed on with polyurethane adhesive, no plasterboard no skimming.

Normal dot n dab doesn’t stick well to eps, the soudal dot n dab foam does, but it still requires mechanical fixing

I chased most of my cables in, if I did it again I would batten all the walls out. you will need to test lots of screws out if screwing into the nylon webs, most wood screws won’t grip if you over spin them. I have found the exterior screws in wickes grip perfectly as they have a very course thread. look for the 3inch ones if fitting a 25mm batten. no idea why they are imperial sizes.

It’s visable and will be stained to match the rest of the timber, steel wasn’t even an option. I didn’t think it was expensive really.

I have a couple of large beams under a carport i used a kerto beam instead of gluelam, loads cheaper.

If you have half a building up I would roof the lot completely not temporary. get all the posi joists sit them on the walls you have built, sail the sheets over the bit you haven’t built and hold the wall plates up on 4x4 posts, then build the walls up under cover, will help you when the winter comes.

Don’t put a fixing behind the back panel, you will never know it’s there and will never be able to remove a cabinet if you need to.

I did block n beam with standard concrete block and insulation on top, I looked at all these insulated types and concluded that they had two many faults. harder to construct being a major one, standard block n beam is very fast and easy. cost also, if buying a large quantity of blocks you can get the price right down. the only upside I can see to these insulated systems is the height you gain, if you only need to put a 75mm cap sheet on then you save 75mm in floor build up, but that’s hardly a big issue.

Do you need a drain to go in there for the cylinder ?

Your bead is too big before you hit it with the Cramer tool. I bet you’re picking up a lot of wastage on the tool. smaller bead push firmer with the tool lots of wet wipes.

Morning I’m in Cirencester first question. Why electric showers. would be my last choice, unvented cylinder and nice thermostatic mixer shower will provide good shower pressure and loads of hot water.

The wife has just finished our vat claim i will see your 161 invoices @Benpointer and raise you 1057 invoices anybody had a larger amount than this.

I’m not sure I get what you want. you get a self build insurance for the new build and keep your original house insurance on the original house. what has the building work in the back garden got to do with the original house. are you splitting it into two plots ?