Russell griffiths

Water works with gravity everything travels downwards ( apart from a bit of capillary action ) so lap everything downwards, just sit and look, pretend your a water droplet where will you get trapped, how would you run under that sole plate and into the house. lap everything down and out.

You need to consider the temperature for pointing, needs to be 5 degrees and rising for the duration that it will take to dry. fix the problem of water hitting the wall first and the pointing can be done in April.

That’s your problem fix that and let the wall dry out, then re point it in the spring.

What’s that black plastic pipe. zoom the picture out.

I did exactly the same floor screed down boards on walls big fat squirt of foam all around entire house let it cure and cut flush fit skirting. don’t be buying one tin, get a box of 12 at a time and use it everywhere.

Are you sure, you have a mixture of two floors there, you wouldn’t put block n beam in then an insulated raft on top. are you sure it’s not just insulation on top of block n beam then screed. post a drawing up. if your keen on an insulated raft then look for a SE that specifically works on them regularly.

If you spray it your still supposed to back roll over it to get the correct finish, straight from a sprayer is too perfect.

Stick your hand down it and yank out that black thing, I think it comes out.

So as they swing out and along they put a load on the edge in a sort of pulling motion ? is that what you mean.

I’ve just re read your original post, I thought you were proposing to build a beam 178mm high, which I based my answer on, but looking again your saying plate both sides in ply 600mm high. Now that would work. I would want to extend the plywood onto both side walls, not finish the ends level with the sides of the opening.

You won’t be spanning four metres with timber alone. with that wall above it will definitely deflect too much. steel flitch beams or some sort of steel beam with insulation and timber all sandwiched together.

What am I missing here. I see no need to fireproof the framing, you wouldn’t fire proof the frame of a house, so why a garage. timberframe as the structural part, steel sheets on the outside as non flammable exterior, then if you wanted you could put cement sheets on the the inside. but being as it’s in jock land what do they want.

What score do they say they will achieve with the airtightness test.

Nope. most of those hangers rely on having brick work above them to secure them to the wall. you need to sketch up what you think your verge detail will be, you say no soffit but you will have a small drip edge coming down from your roof finish. This needs to be on the outside of the render. I think Nick mentioned oversailing the top cord of the joists. this is an easy way of not having to fit a rim board/ pole plate. fit a wall plate cut at an angle then top hang the rafters/ joists. Infill between them with noggins then sail over your ply / osb, then roof trim will hang down and cover the ends of the rafters and ply. get your crayons out and sketch up what you want it to look like.

I’ve had a few of these, fairly straightforward to put up with one helper.