Russell griffiths

Now you have your pins in place you could set up your profile boards if you want, you can mark external wall and internal then see it all drops onto the foundation. are you going 600 wide or 700. im sure something changed recently regarding regs.

Don’t fit 32mm, 40 min and reduce to 32 under the basin.

You can get an extension and fit it with the liquid ptfe or the blue glue/ liquid stuff. personally i would fit it correctly out to 2mm shallower than the face of the tile. depends on your ability to sleep after it’s left like that.

Does it look right.

Look for the nail !

Side wall of trench is better. if you bang them in the bottom and go over by 10 mm you will never find them. if in the side the concrete tends to build up around the bar like a dam and is more visable. do you have a rotary laser and a receiver if so you fix the receiver on to a chunk of wood with a flat t shape on the bottom, tamp the concrete and put the receiver on it and wait for the beep beep noise. 10-20 mm out of level from end to end over 15m is perfectly acceptable. and will be taken out with the first course of blocks.

I don’t think the os map has much to do with it. site TOPO survey taken at beginning of project then all drawings laid over the TOPO.

Ask him.

For footings, pour it in get it level go to pub, that is it. do not cover, waste of money. slab, that’s a different matter, finished floor that’s a very different matter.

I haven’t seen profile boards used in years. they take your drawing and load it into their computer in the office, when they come to site it is all loaded into their total station all ready. they use a glass prism on the concrete footing that gets the accuracy bob on. get them to put a height post in, you can mark it with ffh and all the other things you need on it.

We had a local surveyor, he came to site 3 times. 1. rough set out. footprint plus 2 m in all directions so we could strip the site. 2. Accurate footing set out, footings set out with metal pins on every corner accurate to 20mm in any direction 3. Wall set out, masonary nails put into footing concrete on corner locations, accurate to the mm.

Single wall with horizontal studs on the inside lined with more insulation. or go icf, or buy the frame all done depending how much you want to do.

Why. just build a wider wall and put the insulation in that, your Ewi sounds a nightmare to install and detail. just sounds all over complicated and not needed.

this is another 15mm plastic hep2 o with a brass fitting to go into compression fittings. various reducers are available. it’s all of the shelf stuff. you either have stupid or lazy plumbers.

these fittings are also available so you can go plastic into your brass shower valve.