Russell griffiths

Can you not cover it in pvc trim the same as the windows, it will take up about 8mm.

Why do you have a steel lintel on show, shouldn’t it have a trim over it.

Your not going to drill a 210 mm hole with a hole saw definitely a jigsaw job as John said fit ply mark centre point for duct drill centre hole with a slight fall remove ply and trace outline of duct cut out hole in ply draw around off cut of ply on the pro passive cut out pro passive draw around cut out of ply on outer layer of truss cut out outer layer Fit duct and seal up well fit ply and seal up well. or leave the duct loose until you are ready for the mvhr. I would always cut the holes larger as I like a good squirt of illbruck foam around everything

That’s the good thing about the fermacel boards, no skimming needed, just fill the screw holes and paint.

I’m going to say this is such a horrible job to do that you will end up doing it badly if done badly with air gaps then you might as well not do it. I would do room by room take the skirting off, lift the floor, re fit floor re fit skirting and then re decorate each room.

Plant room 18mm ply direct to the walls then 2.4x1.2 sheets of fermacel jointed using their joint stick, then two good coats of eggshell paint. all the plumbers handprints and pencil marks wash off easily or a quick touch up and there gone. this is what I did. I cannot believe the amount of unpainted walls in plant rooms I see on here that then have ufh manifold fitted and tanks put in place before the walls are painted looks totally rubbish.

If you want an insulated board for window reveals then the cement faced xps has been used by a few on here myself included, I called up one of the technical depts and found out the need for the primer.

The cement faced xps board required a specific primer before skimming.

I had two different lads do two rooms both I wasn’t happy with the finish. in the end I had a recommendation from a lad on here, I used the bloke he recommended and he has since gone on and done another buildhub members house. £4 a metre gets you a site plasterer, smash and dash lots of work for the decorators. mine came in around £6 when I added it up, I could see an awkward layout or high ceilings costing a bit more. I seam to recall a conversation with him about £10 a metre for high quality pain in the arse stuff.

Ask your rendering team to take you and show you how they normally finish this area, have a look and see if it fits in with what you’re after. I used the coloured trims and I think it’s very neat, but it takes a good man to run the render up to them neatly. the trims do have a tear off strip that protects the windows while they are being rendered.

Look on Facebook, normally a few sets on there knocking around for half what your quoting, will sell for same money at end.

Don’t you have 6 months to put your vat claim in after bc sign off, so six months after sign off.

Nope. I poured 27 cubic metres on our first pour with me and one helper. there was the owner operator of the pump working that, then just two of us using the vibrator and checking it was all plumb. Icf is very diy friendly your not pouring a flat house floor that needs to be within 3-5 mm tolerance your pouring wet concrete inside form work that you have already plumbed up theres a good few on this forum that have done their own icf including the pours.

Well the concrete comes in a ready mix truck, and you need to hire a pump to get it up to the top of the wall, but that’s about it. like saying you can’t put a timberframe up yourself because you haven’t got a crane.