Russell griffiths

Can you use a led strip with a controller to adjust the colour. we have these, has a little keypad you keep in the drawer to change the settings.

Build the opening smaller then, stick to around 5m. having built two new houses and multiple renovations with this type of extension on the back I can’t think of a reason for such a big door. we where going to have two sets of 5m wide doors in the back, but went for one and a picture window, and our view out the back is probably better than 95% of peoples, we just couldn’t see it being used fully, and the impracticalities were many. A 6.5m wide opening looks good on the fancy architects plans. but that is all. pros and cons of such a big opening. CONS. future deflection effects door working properly Expensive steel more calculations very expensive door problems with such a door in the future how many days in England will you actually want it fully open smaller reveals on the inside restricts furniture and kitchen layout. PROS. You can show your friends what a big door you have.

I’m going to throw something out there. have you built the opening yet. if not make it smaller. if you haven’t built it yet let us know.

If it’s oak. YOU need to tape them up thoroughly don’t leave the plasterer to do it, pink plaster in the grain is impossible to remove, or get a coat of whatever you are putting on the oak, then tape them.

No silly idea, the cost of the plywood would be dearer than getting a plasterer for a day. get all the paper off and make it easy for him. Get a reasonable finish then hang lining paper and paint.

If your in the west mids, go and see mark at archital or something like that, I’ve had a couple of grands worth from him, spot on service.

By the time it’s tiled and a flashing installed you won’t be able to see any brickwork, that will all be lead. tiles need to come off original roof and new flashing dressed under the cloaking and cement fillet. then re lay original verge tiles on original roof.

Look up, GUTTERCREST, they fabricate this sort of stuff. if you go for aluminium it will look the best, but cost the most. zinc coated steel is available, but will have a bit of a wave effect as it’s relatively thin. there’s a company in the midlands who also fabricate these in aluminium, I’ve had all my window cills from them, very nice stuff, but I cannot remember the name, something like ARCHITAL.

Nope, don’t go there unless you are the type that just likes to do stuff just to prove it can be done. there are many proven ways to build a house, looking for something new is just silly, you will struggle to get trades to do it, you will struggle to get a mortgage, and also to insure it, as well as structural engineer to design other bits around it. im aware of the product as it’s used extensively to build commercial buildings, and I did a bit of that previously.

I did this.

I suppose this depends on what you contract states, are you responsible for getting the duct to the pole. the lads that came to mine where really helpful, and I had an excavator there already. they may well have called out an excavator if needed. the pole definitely went in to an augured hole though.

They use an auger, not an excavator dig your trench and lay the duct, leave the last 2m open they can cut the duct back and fit a swept bend on the end up the pole.

By the time you are near to finishing your build you probably wish you had a crack pipe.

No norrsken

If you are having a joint, get a detailed drawing of how they join them. we have two windows that join and they have a joining strip that fits into a routered out channel in both windows, loads of sealer applied and screwed together. a friend had a similar thing fitted and he could actually see through the gap between the two windows, no method of sealing at all just a couple of screws 🤬.