Russell griffiths

Ffs the top floor windows are wrong as well. how can somebody have the knowledge to replace a lintel and not follow the brick bond. baffles me.

I would start with getting the bricks replaced under those windows, it’s been incorrectly bonded.

Get a bloke out with a drain camera.

I would build an aluminium and steel pergola thing with either a retractable roof or an opening roof. alternatively a large couple of shade sails that you remove in October time to get some winter solar gain. get on chat gpt and see what they think.

Remember as well both the lads answering on here with a stove are up in Scotland.

If there’s no solids going down it I don’t believe it needs to be 110mm pipe, you could drop to the 80mm version or even 50mm depending on run length and rodding access. I would go with hiding a smaller diameter pipe in the insulation level, insulate all around the pipe and put a chicken wire reinforcement over the pipe in the screed.

Are you not supposed to do a lightbulb bend so you get a larger radius bend so no kinks but it still fits 150 pipe centres.

That’s a @Nickfromwales question I personally probably wouldn’t do that. what happens to any movement at that junction. Are there going to be steps built out that the bends can be hidden in, what’s going on the upstands. needs a side view drawing and a scrap bit of pipe to check the bend radius.

No need for an insulation upstands if using eps icf blocks, you already have an insulated upstand it’s what the walls are built of. ditch the insulation upstand and fold the dpm up the walls, use the foam expansion strip around the screed area, once screed is in trim the foam back and use some cheap sealant to seal between the screed and eps.

Get some neoprene insulation material 100mm wide, wrap this around the soil pipes at screed level. 2 wraps around will leave you with a void around the pipe so when the screed is in and dry you will either have a bit of wiggle room on the pipe, or you have the ability to pull the neoprene out which leaves a void that a pipe coupling will fit into. as for sealing them you will be putting your dpm on top of the beam n block so you seal the pipes to that.

No drain on it just a simple pop riveted box.

Ah you think we might get condensation inside the heater box thing. .?

IMG_6736.mov I’ve got a pre heater fitted on my mvhr ducting on the fresh incoming air, I’ve decided to run cool water through it from the cool water that’s going through the floor, it’s dropped the incoming air temp by 10 degrees. what’s your opinion worth doing ? should I ramp the mvhr to push the air around quicker or is it a bit pointless as mvhr moves so little air about I’m wasting my time. thoughts people.

Just pretend you are wrapping the wife’s Christmas presents.

Turn the membrane upwards against the outer side of the outer leaf of blockwork, then lay your driveway up against it.