Russell griffiths

Just be aware lead should not be longer than 1.5m, I’ve seen lads run a roll of lead from top to bottom of a valley, as it’s long and thin it looks like the obvious thing to do, but expansion kills it.

Top pic in my previous post was after washing the floor ready to prime it for tiling. middle pic was the day after it was laid.

I remember why the softwood option was cheaper I left large gaps between each board so used a load less boards not saying how big that’s up to you to decide. all fitted with 90mm galv ringshanks nails my labour was free, it took a bloody age. I researched this forever and found that a lot of EU countries used big gaps, and they have been installing this stuff longer than us.

I priced up ply versus sorft wood 100x25 the ply was a lot dearer. but this was in 2020.

I wouldn’t consider osb under the sheets, pull out strength of an 18mm screw is not great. 25mm sarking boards for me.

Go and see the neighbours rip the hedge out and re plant a new one, by the time the house is built it will be 4 feet high and nice and lush.

Cash flow if a contractor supplies a service and materials it’s zero vat if you buy the materials you pay the vat and claim it back, this could be a long time before you get it back.

Depends what door you have, we have a mat well simply because a lot of the modern low threshold doors are very low to the finished floor, so you physically can’t put a mat on top of the floor or the door won’t open. also with the low doors they tend to trap small stones and scratch the floor, the mat wel allows the stones to fall lower allowing the door to open.

How much is the huge fee from the planning consultant our was about £4000 and she worked with us for 18 months getting the plans passed. your not mixing up all the survey fees and other documents with her cost are you. the rest of the fees took it up to £16,000, but the actual planning consultant I felt was very good value.

The cement faced foam core boards can be skimmed, but you use a specific primer. definitely not pva.

What do you want to know the brass stop cock is the incoming main, it’s got the couple of turns in the pipe so the tap is easier to reach instead of it being above the cylinder, as that cylinder is probably 1500high. the white bit of hep pipe is the temporary pipe because the water softener isn’t there. This allows the house to have water while the softener was removed so we could get to do the pipe work above it without dropping solder all over the new softener.

I have a Carlos fandango bearing puller, oil filled mega pressure one. it’s still easier with a cold chisel and lump hammer. get a chunk of 16-20mm round or square steel, put it in the vice and bend the top 40mm at an angle you can get that down the centre of the bush and use it like a drift.

Join a Facebook group called 8 ton and below loads of info on there regarding anything digger related.

First thing to do is put some safety glasses on. they are extremely hard and can shatter. I would look at some YouTube videos I did mine at the bucket end. you can do it a few ways, make up a puller/ pusher tool buy using some threaded rod 16mm you will need some old sockets from a socket set or buy some cheap Chinese rubbish from Amazon, get a socket the exact or just smaller than the bush add on a small extension bar, place on face of bush and whack the f##k out of it. After 3-4 whacks you will see it move. if it’s a two piece bush so one either side with a gap in the middle you can get a foot long cold chisel and put it through one bush and up against the other bush. Again whack the be Jesus out of it. it’s not a delicate operation. all sockets and extension bar will be buggered at the end so don’t borrow your mates best snap on set. 🤣🤣 SO YOU BOUGHT A DIGGER THEN. you kept that quiet. have fun.