puntloos

It depends on how fancy the house is whether or not I'd ask such questions. If the house is marketed to me as "highest standard" then I would probably check if such details have been thought of. (And I guess to me a sign of "well done" would still be "heating zones all across the house", not just downstairs) Whether or not it would deter me to buy would depend on how many of such niggles I start stacking up which would be a sign of sloppiness overall. But, a proper seller and/or a proper real estate agent would be able to explain the philosophy and proveit was well-thought-out.

Time to go huntin for pocksters then. Location, Bristol. Big yellow smiley face. Should be doable.

Yeah I asked my heating guy about this, said it would be fine given the temperature UFH(coolingmode) can achieve - of course wood less ideal as well. But overall, assuming the system doesn't have to deal with someone leaving all doors open during a 40C day (..) then UFCooling should suffice? FCUs still require cold water though right? Either way I do plan to have some provisions to upgrade from MVHR to MVHR+cooled(airconned) air.. Ha, I thought you meant that the door itself was flush with the wall.

This is indeed probably the point. I don't think heating will be a major issue (if you *really* have to an electric heater it can be pretty modest) - but underfloor cooling might be a reason to do it upstairs?

Sigh, buildhub allows so little time to edit/update.. sorry for the row of posts.. People debate this then - @Bored Shopper hates this for cleaning? Why? Aesthetics? Seems annoying to not be able to use windowsills as 'storage'? Why not? Works well as acoustic insulation, no? And finally quite a bit of debate on UFH everywhere or just downstairs and in upstairs bathrooms?

I've been leaning towards loft, just for space reasons.. but whats the convenience in services (in general, you wouldn't need to touch it often enough for it to matter, no?)

How's this? How big are your windows, and what's the actual hassle? Do you have to take steps back to let them rotate open, or is there some other challenge I'm missing?

Can you elaborate why? What's the benefit? So both a cooling ASHP and a separate aircon? I've debated that elsewhere but I'm fairly certain that (especially with a well-insulated house), a cooling ASHP should be sufficient? Not sure if you're serious or not, my google searches only show paintings of warships and airplanes in toughguard. I guess it would make an interesting house?

Doesn't work with non-wood-floors - although I was indeed considering leaving some gaps in the concrete..

Yup, I don't think residential owners will accept them. Even though objectively they might look 'okay' people associate them too much with stark offices so I don't think I would want this. If instead there is some elegant near-seamless solution that does roughly the same thing, we can talk

Especially with "Smart Homes", there are a bunch of things I'd prefer to be IN the ceiling rather than ON the ceiling. Air quality detectors, Wifi access points, motion detectors, temperature and so on. I'd prefer them to be hidden for obvious reasons (maybe not always a great idea, can't have an air sensor be enclosed in a ceiling, but you get the idea) But, if they break... what do - redo the entire ceiling? Not ok, I'm afraid. Instead, of course 'office ceilings' could work but are ugly Are there non-ugly office ceilings?

Oh, they're on amazon too: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pre-Rinse-Sprayer-TTS-Commercial-Kitchen/dp/B07D9K85MY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 with https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07YRJKD7W/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07YRJKD7W&pd_rd_w=pVI0R&pf_rd_p=f388d75d-7ab7-4c34-b7db-4c9f2e822f57&pd_rd_wg=OalOj&pf_rd_r=J8DE50Q9JBYJCKVNGY62&pd_rd_r=9f1281c7-e0c3-43b8-b7af-1d83b4321386&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzT0RXVTdPTDc4RUdTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzk3MTQ2MllTMkZXM0dZTTY1MSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzg1OTgwMjk3UEwxRVRURE84WiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= as a decent replacement.

This one seems fairly nice But worried about build quality

Reviving this one for a moment. One key question I realised wasn't touched on yet, but the tap in question - https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32896514433.html still exists but perhaps new ones have surfaced, might give a quick scan: My kitchen tap will be on the inside of an external wall. Will this cause any type of trouble running some pipes near the surface? Or will this be cold-bridging hell etc Ignore the tap style, and we might actually do away with the window, but something like this:

Because networks can't accept more than 4Kw "per phase"?

Dumb question but what does 3vs1phase have to do with PV?

Bifolds are interesting - I think the amount of times that people would do the full wiiiiiiiide open thing that real estate agents love to show off are perhaps 4 times per year. But, I'm not sure I agree with the statement that sliders are more practical. All sliders I've encountered are *slow* so they will halt a smooth flow when you're walking at speed. Instead a bifold does have a normal door at the end which is efficient, in & out. IMO bifold is best of both worlds but I would expect the "standard door mode" to be used 99% of the time.

And how would the slightly better UK brands compare to this? As we all agree, "German" does not have to mean good (perhaps in Alno's case?) but is Alno still better than Magnet or Crown Imperial (which I take to be the better UK brands), and if so, why? how? Obviously with Magnet, Crown etc the "list price" is insane so not quite fair to compare Magnet-at-list to Siematic-at-list, but Magnet at "70% off" say?

Ha, true for normal caddies as well though. Yep smells and cleanability are the main concerns here, and especially with a chute I worry that the sides become very grotty.

Ha, and here I thought Sapienstone was going to be my go-to.. it still might. But as others have said, by itself it might be too brittle. Has anyone tried some bracing methods? Or would making sure it doesn't overhang the cabinets suffice for 99% of the damage vectors? Plus, if you drop an iron frying pan right in the center I suspect it'll still give (but.. perhaps that's true for most materials?)

Ex:

Why not? ? Problem with this is that you are actually in the way of the pull-out while prepping. You don't want to have to stand back, just to slide the food 'into your lap', no? OK to be fair I sort of understand that there's a certain aesthetic reason against having a hole in your worktop, plus if you need a flat surface, this hole (and the 'lid') might interfere. But I could imagine finding the 'right place' and 'right size' might just work.

Fair, but if the filtered air from the extractor still contains grease (I'm sure it does), is there a big difference between directly extracting it and just extracting the air from the kitchen in general? Perhaps beaming it into the kitchen first allows more of the grease to settle on 'the rest of the kitchen'....

Reviving this one for a moment. Can someone explain why ducting hot air from the hob extractor directly into MVHR is a bad idea? Or is it just hard to achieve since most people can't easily get a MVHR duct to an island without tearing up their floors? (as an aside, quooker also recommends some way of cooling their gear, rather than sealing it into a box..)

After a private discussion with @ryder72 - we were wondering: - Assume a prep area on an island - The prep area is (say) 600mm deep (this comes from the depth of a hob plus a small rim in the front of the hob) - The full island depth would then be about 900mm (assuming a 300mm half-depth cabinet attached) -> Can we create a "food waste" chute in a 300mm half-depth cabinet that is Cleanable? Would this work: https://binopolis.com/wesco-ergo-master-worktop-food-waste-bin.html? Other ideas?