Cpd

As @ProDave says I would recommend corrugated Onduline, I did a summer house with it on the west coast over 20 years ago and it’s still going strong ! Cheep and easy to work and you can buy it of the shelf. Another vote for not using felt.

Gabions come in a veriaty of grades from the horrible floppy ones to the crisp green / black platic coated ones. Attachments could be made in several ways I think, where I want to use slates I would use a heavy gauge wire to hang them, you can get aluminium wire that I have used before and I think for my situation this would work well, but heavy gaudge mild steel fencing wire would be another choice as it’s very strong yet bendable so I (and my fluctuating.team of international volunteers) could be set to task making a few hundred / thousand hooks. Where I want to attach verticle cladding I would just build in some heavily treated dimensional timber and use this to either attach directly to or attach cross bars on the front and then the cladding. The cross bars have the advantage that any unwanted undulations could be lost by carfullly blocking out as needed before cladding. I am fairly confident in my ability to make this work and it’s a project I look forward to doing in a few years time. I just need a quick cheap way to retain quite a lot of areas in a veriaty of locations within the property and feel that for me this is the way to go.

I have the intention of using a large amount of Gabion cages for a whole bunch of retaining walls in the next few years, I am not a fan of the wire “look” but appreciate how quick, cheap and structurally sound they are. I will be using a veriaty of methods to hide the wire by attaching both slate and timber to the fronts in the more visible locations. I will also be doing some specific planting to encourage creaping plants to grow up and over selected areas to help further brake up the visual lines. I think that attaching a timber finish would be your cheapest option and would be easy to do. The nature of the baskets being filled with clean stone will give you the ventilation and free drainage needed to give a long life to any wood you use as the finished decorative layer.

Looks great. Job done.

I am sure better minds will be along shortly but when I was in Australia a group of some semi close friends got the opertunity to buy the perfect property big enough to house multiple families, it was a cash sale and the pressure was on to raise the finance but they were short $60000 and stood to loose the opportunity if they did not come up with the cash asap. They approached me and asked if I could help out. I took them at there word that they would and could pay back the cash and transferred it into the appropriate account. Job done. They got the house and everyone lived happily ever after. I lent them the money as I believed in them and their dream, there was a slim chance that it could have gone horribly wrong and I would be out of pocket the full amount but at the end of the day I could have afforded the loss and life goes on. As it turned out it all went well and I got my cash back 5 months later plus a few thousand as a thankyou bonus ! As i said I am sure there are much better ways to do it but hay ho. Not a lot of help I know but it’s one way to look at it when it’s all stripped down to bare bones.

Nice job James, i am also normally a Solo builder and I love it, however we do have a volunteer program and have people from all over the world popping in from 2 weeks to six months to help on all aspects of the project, it’s great to have a enthusiastic youngsters to keep you going on a dull day or to help bowl out the big monotonous jobs. Also very happy with velux, I had an old one without flashings in a shed roof for years and it still worked ! That’s why I went the velux route as they are very resilient even if treated badly. Imperative to make sure the windows line up with the frames before fixing everything in....... seen an instal where this was not done and the window now jams and it’s far lo Kate to fix it ! Better learning from others mistakes where possible. Good luck with the rest of your build.

@JamesP yes I had to work out exactly where the corrugations would fall..... due to a very exposed location I wanted the edge of the tin to fall into the inner flashing gutter (yours is on the outer) but leave enough space for maintenance. Pretty sure it was EDW flashings. In your first picture behind the yellow scaffold pole there is an extended cut beyond the edge of the flashing.... What stops water ingress here ? To avoid the extended apron on either side and to avoid cutting sheets I made sure that that each sheet finished right in the inner gutter and facing downwards and was then able to just run the tin over the apron creating a really tidy finish. If your in an exposed location then I would look at additional fixings on your extended aprons as they are prone to blow up in heavy winds.... part of the reason for my design and the additional 2 fixings. I considered box profile but in the end the original roof was corrugated so stuck with that, corrugated also allows for a bit of flex around the flashings without it being obvious. All in all it was a lot of very tricky and detailed measurements but got there in the end, there a few small gaffs but only I know where they are....... did you do your own instal ? It looks great and will give you years of maintenance free life ! Love a good tin roof !

Also agree after seeing the pic. I only use the double sided and a generous overlap.

Unsure of the correct proceeder but the stuff I used was the wide black double sided sticky stuff that is semi flexible and insanely sticky ! Once it goes down it’s down....... seems very strange that a product like this is lifting, it looks like it’s just not sticking to the plastic. If both tapes are failing and there is ANY chance of water getting in from below or above I would be having it up and using a different product.

Thanks @PeterW it took so much working out to be able to get the down curve of the tin to fall precisely into the gutters of the flashings, there was just so little room for error when you have 4 windows / 8 flashing gutters down the side of the windows. You also want to leave enough space for it to be well ventilated and be able to clean between the edge of the tin and the window..... when my 3000 trees grow up and leaves start to become an issue ! I had to put in the two extra fixings through the flashing below the windows as I am in a VERY exposed location and during my research of local velux in tin I was alarmed to see how the flashings could lift at the bace in these locations leading to damage, water ingress and then shite bodge work to fix the problem. Just got given a bunch of square galvanised tin guttering and a bunch of brackets (wrong brackets....) so am going to paint the tin and wax oil the inside and get the forge fired up to re-bend all the brackets. All curtesy of another local builders merchant. As I previously said I was “alarmed” at how bad the professionals round here were doing this sort of installation..... work less than 12 months old was rusting / leaking / blocked with leaves and moss and looked terrible......

The tin ridge is not something I would recomend but it fits in with my other two ridges on my adjacent buildings, I would look at replacing them all with something more durable when they all reach the end of there life,

Flashing kits are available you just need to get the right one, velux support will be able to help. It’s not the lack of flashings but how they are installed. Will post a pic later

Are you talking about velux window ? I have just re-roofed my shed with new tin and instead of the old fashioned clear corrugated sheet I went with 4 velux as they look much smarter, can be opened and I get a lot more ventilation in there now. I looked at various examples of how “professionals” installed them and was appalled at the poor workmanship in regard to both how the flashings worked and the damage done to the tin by poor cutting to fit them in. Each example was an opportunity for me to see how not to do it and gave me time to come up with solutions. In the end it came down to understanding how the corrugations would align in regard to the flashings and how to minimise cutting and how best to avoide having cut edges exposed. Very carful planning of where the cut outs would need to be placed in the roof was critical and there was a lot of measuring and re measuring. In the end it worked out about 95% good with only a couple of areas that could have been better. (Next time) the final result is fantastic, it transforms the tin roof into a very smart setup but still very much in keeping with the local vernacular which is rural agricultural land. I looked and looked on line for details on how to do it well but came up with nothing, plenty of pretty pictures but no technical detail.

This is going to keep you on your toes over the next few weeks ! Seems like a lot of genuine interest and very few tyre kickers. Good luck.

Thats what I did, got a stunning location / perfect plot and and 3 semi derelict buildings all needing a whole heap of work.... love to keep myself busy.....

Thanks @MikeGrahamT21 installed this today and it’s all working great and is so very quiet compared to the previous one. Job done ✅

Really looks good and looks like the whole process is running smoothly. Well done to date and good luck on the next stage. Also great looking tidy site ?

Its an in-line fan just goes straight up from above the shower into the unit that’s mounted just above the ceiling and out the roof something like this one

C2 Is perfectly flat I am sorry bud but that’s another language to me...... there was power to both ends of the circuit board but no power at the 2 section terminal that had the red and black wires going to the funny black box, I am a barbarian when it comes to electronics......

Man that sounds like a good idea, have been fecking around with a multi meter for an hour but this is all above my pay grade, it’s a very loud fan right next to a bedroom and would not be missed. I really don’t have the time to try and learn how to repair this at this time..... will just go for the straight swap to the one you mentioned and put this one in a box for a winters night. Thanks for saving me, was just starting to feel my bile rising when I shorted the multi meter across the circuit board terminals and got blinded by the flash bumped my head and fell of the ladder........

You know what I am saying. I was thinking about my life as a rock climber and the amount of times I have been off route hundreds of feet up with nightfall coming and the weather deteriorating, at a certian point the option to abseil of will be gone and you will be stuck on the wall for the night, you either “go for it” at this point or you start the long process of trying to get off the fecking hill. 90% of the time I chucked caution to the wind and just got on with it. On my build the other 10% is having the luxury of procrastinating! Keep up the good work.

Good morning fellow hubbers, so I fitted the above mentioned fan about 4 - 5 years ago and it’s been busy working ever since. Admittedly I have not serviced it by way of giving it a good clean and as just reward for my lack of TLC it’s been slowly getting filled with crud and has now stopped working. The problem was that while doing some work in the roof space I knocked the unit and the crud inside the duct fell down into the working fan, Blocked it and then it stopped fan. I assume by the look of it that something on the circuit board has burnt out due to the jammed fan. My question is. 1. Is this repairable ? 2. If so how ? This is very much a working house with kids, volunteers and the family traipsing in and out all the time, the fan is the only main extract and is set to an overrun of 20 min so it’s on a lot of the time, the huge build up of crud is not surprising and lack of maintenance is why this has happened, I put my hands up. Thanks for any help. Col

Great write up and well done for soldiering on, many times in my life I have been in this situation, ( up against the wall with no time to faff, you either go hard or go home) always got respect for the person who goes hard when the option to go home is still just available. But hay who doesn’t like a challenge......

Thank you gentlemen. Saved me some time. Right back to the “learning” have a good afternoon.

Ok as some have seen I am trying to do a lot of work on a tight budget so am always trying toFind good deals to make what money I have go as far as possible, this often leads to having to buy items that come up cheap on the second hand market and as often as not as local as possible. Due to a multitude of factors (Chronic fatigue, a new famillly and life commitments) I am still very much on the back foot in regard to finalising my domestic hot water and heating system for my cottage but have got a 6kw ASHP I know how the downstairs UFH will eventually be installed and I know there will be only one shower, one kitchen sink, and one bathroom sink and an occupancy of 4 people. I have just seen a hot water tank come up on the second hand market in the local area and wanted to know if this would be suitable for my needs. I will go back and read @ProDave post about his hot water tank as I am assuming my system will be similar, but as it’s one of those should I shouldn’t I buy decisions I feel the need to ask before wasting time and effort researching this when I am sure someone one can help ! They are selling a boiler and a tank for £300 but will separate so my questions are. 1. Is this tank suitable for my needs (ASHP Input , DHW, UFH) 2. Out of the £300 if I only want the tank what should I offer them for it sorry to be so vague but this just came up and I really am trying to get my shit together and plan a system . The add is below. Worcester Greenstar 24i LPG Condensing System Boiler with vertical flue kit and 45 degree bend - Telford Tempest Vertical Unvented Cylinder 150 ltrs all installed in 2008 and in active use until May this year when we changed our heating system. Happy to sell as a job lot or split up. Open to offers