Conor

You don't need EPS on the outside, it won't support the drain anyway. Your dpc doesn't make much sense. You want it to go right up the back of the door block and lap over the dpm. Put a 50mm screed floor down with UFH. Anything else is inferior.

I think we all know how much we can trust Kingspan datasheets. 🔥

If you ever have a burst under there, you'll need to lay a new pipe around the house. I'd replace it with 25mm MDPE and place in a 100mm duct under the footing.

Here in NI, 7.3kn blocks are the standard stock, 3.6kn would be unusual.

Really needs to be coupled to one of those 360⁰ heads. But damn handy.

We've ours set to 35c. Translates to about 30c at the manifolds. Design temp is 28c so works well .

We used three cheap dehumidifiers. Dried the air and warmed it. COP of 1.5-2. Had a couple blow heaters for when it was very cold.

Our boarders used a nail gun. Don't know if it's the best, but fast and nothing has moved they were something like 20mm nails with a plastic sheath, fired from a massive gas gun.

All of the flow indicators on one of my manifolds are stuck. No matter how I adjust the flow, they don't budge. Other two manifolds are just fine. Any easy way to free them? Pic taken with everything off!

There's usually a simple form that you fill out the rating of each appliance and calculates it for you. Unless you have a lot of PV, I'd be surprised if it'll dictate a three phase when you add up. Our house with two ovens, induction hob, EV charger, heatpump etc only came to 50amps or so. Well under the 80amp max.

Our engineer's solution was a 203SHS with 14mm plate welded to the bottom for 5mm deflection of 5m. Beam sat behind the insulation and only the steel plate formed a bridge.

row of old slates propped up on something to make s slope to the gravel?

Tilt it back on it's feet to see if the condensate drips off the back of the unit and in to the gravel?

get a new door.

Ours are del Carmen prime.

You need to contact the local water company, they might be the ultimate owners. Do not trust any drawing of any underground utility, or take anybody's word as reliable. It could be anything.

Are all you electric cables wired in to a modern consumer unit with RCBOs etc? Then I'd argue the risk of electrical file is minimal and if the ceiling is 30min rated then you're golden. We've only painted two of our steels, the main mezzanine steels are protected by 30min rated ceiling. The point of fire protecting steels is to ensure that the building stays up long enough for escape. A smouldering electrical cable isn't going to bother an RSJ.

What's the steel doing? Strictly only needs protection if it's supporting a means of escape. But otherwise, your BCO is correct, 30mins fire protection needed. Are you ceiling panels not easy to remove to get access?

Daily and weekly inspections can be done by any competent person. I.e. yourself. I only got the scaff company round when something needed to be changed.

Reduce to 25mm MDPE. You can then fit a 25mm tap. You don't need 32mm for a site supply. Do you need a double check valve? Surely if this is a new connection you'll have a modern meter box with integrated non return valve?

We've the Del Carmen and love them. Went through loads of samples. We paid £1.50 ex vat for ours, albeit three years ago, from local builders merchant.

Mine's fine, I meant the opposite of what I wrote 🤔

What was the issue with the doorbell? Ours is going wrong, but it's in a very sheltered spot which helps

No, which is why we went with virgin. We're ICF with 100mm EWI... I wasn't having somebody attempt to fit a box and ruin my lovely render.

What size is the gap? We had to go with a concrete door block for our bifold, so I left a 50mm gap between the screed and then lined the block in aerogel and laid the leftover compact foam in the gap. Foamed into place. Then underlay and laminate on top. Still a slight cold spot but no issues with the flooring. Oh and think I painted the door block in airtight paint as well at tape between the door frame and block.