Conor

A weed membrane will stop the roots of any weeds getting down into the soil. But, by that point the plants will be big enough to be a nuisance anyway, so not a huge benefit.

Pipe needs to be straight and not pulling, these things leak easily, I've installed 100s of them. Strictly speaking, this is the property of the water company and you shouldnt be touching them, better option is to call them and say their meter box is leaking.

It'll just be an old clay pipe running in to a ditch. If in doubt, budget on a full new treatment plant and soak away / discharge and get it taken off the asking price.

Unless you were face into it with a grinder, drill etc with dust flying everywhere, there's almost no risk.

Only way to know is to get a sample tested. Plenty of companies offering that service. May as well do it and know for next time. But if it's all now sealed / covered up, then there is no point going back in at this stage.

I can't remember. Long gone from that house now. I think my spark supplied and fitted it, but almost sure it was a standard dimmer.

Yeah, pretty loud on the outside. Rarely ran mine full tilt. Yes, just ripped all the fan stuff out of the cheap hood I got from Currys.

£200-£500k That's assuming 250mm thick reinforced concrete. Allow about £1k per m2. No allowance for drainage, edge protection, access, egress etc.

I fitted the dimmer along the supply to the unit. I ripped everything out of the hood and dumped it, everything except the lighting went to the Monsoon unit outside. So two power supplies, one to the Monsoon via a dimmer, and another to the hood just to power the lights.

Something like 50mm eps glued to the inside would probably be enough. And lag the pipes.

You'll need continuous ventilation for the pitch roof at a minimum.

I got two lines of festoon lights. Brilliant. Worth the 30mins or so to screw in to the walls /ceilings. I've still got one setup on the underside of our balcony before I put in"proper" lighting. half tempted to hide the wires and leave them there instead of spending £200 on LED spots etc. I didn't bother with 110w, just 240v, perfectly safe if you've a properly installed board.

1. You don't need to use 22mm pipe at all. 15mm is fine for a shower. 2. Direct pipe routes. 3. Use 10mm pipe for basins. 4. You're over complicating it. 5. One pipe per fixture. No joins.

The sewer is public and you should be able to connect your foul sewage to it. It's nothing to do with your neighbour. It's not surprising the water company don't know anything about it, the pipe would never have been surveyed or drawings sent to the water company. You'll have to make an application and submit plans. There might be issues with that pipes capacity or the local network's capacity that will need to be checked by the water company. You WILL need to deal with surface water separately.

Can't normally share a domestic supply between properties. you'll ultimately need an independent supply for the new dwelling. That will be when you mortgage or sell. Bite the bullet and get it done now.

200mm insulation then liquid screed. So fairly typical except for ring beams instead of trenches, as we were already down into firm ground. External walls were ICF with tanking. We originally had it designed as an insulated raft, but SE couldn't get it to work.

Before it was finished, but you get the idea. Our reason for doing this was because it's a basement, we'd already dug out 400tonnes of earth and didn't want more coming from trenches.

That's what we did. Ground bearing raft. Where there were internal walls, the concrete was thicker with an extra layer of mesh. Walls were built off the slab. We also and compacted the Type 3, then the digger driver scraped out the areas for the walls, compacted, then blinding layer. Essentially extending the ringbeam internally.

No, just get it done. Ours was done in December. we only had a small area wash off. The silicone renders cure quickly, even in the cold.

We did it exactly as your building is proposing. If you don't have insulation, fitting the UFH is harder work as you have to attach to concrete rather than soft insulation. yes, perimeter insulation is needed as acts as an expansion gap.

So is all the driveway drainage going in to the aco in the middle there and then to a soak away? Where does the water go when the aco and soak away are overwhelmed? I hope there is flow to the road? Otherwise your house will flood. BC would not accept our patio drainage for that reason, we had to install a separate set of drains incase the primary got blocked or overwhelmed. And indeed, it's happened once that i know of. And agree with Jimbo, you're going to have damp issues all along the front there. An alternative is to install an aco channel drain all along the edge of the house, rather than the bricks. No caps on channel is fine if thet are up against something solid. Would be an issue if loose material could collapse in.

Where is the water coming from? If you're going to cut out and relay, I'd fisning the new surface 5-10mm lower, then come back a week later with a bag of self leveller.

Turn flow rates of your ufh zones down a bit.

Is your heating system working as expected / adequately?

Drill a couple small diameter holes through the door frame on each of the three sides then insert something like a small Phillips screwdriver until you hit the masonary to determine the depth, and therefore the true width. The holes can then be easily filled and painted over.