Conor

Yeah, pretty loud on the outside. Rarely ran mine full tilt. Yes, just ripped all the fan stuff out of the cheap hood I got from Currys.

£200-£500k That's assuming 250mm thick reinforced concrete. Allow about £1k per m2. No allowance for drainage, edge protection, access, egress etc.

I fitted the dimmer along the supply to the unit. I ripped everything out of the hood and dumped it, everything except the lighting went to the Monsoon unit outside. So two power supplies, one to the Monsoon via a dimmer, and another to the hood just to power the lights.

Something like 50mm eps glued to the inside would probably be enough. And lag the pipes.

You'll need continuous ventilation for the pitch roof at a minimum.

I got two lines of festoon lights. Brilliant. Worth the 30mins or so to screw in to the walls /ceilings. I've still got one setup on the underside of our balcony before I put in"proper" lighting. half tempted to hide the wires and leave them there instead of spending £200 on LED spots etc. I didn't bother with 110w, just 240v, perfectly safe if you've a properly installed board.

1. You don't need to use 22mm pipe at all. 15mm is fine for a shower. 2. Direct pipe routes. 3. Use 10mm pipe for basins. 4. You're over complicating it. 5. One pipe per fixture. No joins.

The sewer is public and you should be able to connect your foul sewage to it. It's nothing to do with your neighbour. It's not surprising the water company don't know anything about it, the pipe would never have been surveyed or drawings sent to the water company. You'll have to make an application and submit plans. There might be issues with that pipes capacity or the local network's capacity that will need to be checked by the water company. You WILL need to deal with surface water separately.

Can't normally share a domestic supply between properties. you'll ultimately need an independent supply for the new dwelling. That will be when you mortgage or sell. Bite the bullet and get it done now.

200mm insulation then liquid screed. So fairly typical except for ring beams instead of trenches, as we were already down into firm ground. External walls were ICF with tanking. We originally had it designed as an insulated raft, but SE couldn't get it to work.

Before it was finished, but you get the idea. Our reason for doing this was because it's a basement, we'd already dug out 400tonnes of earth and didn't want more coming from trenches.

That's what we did. Ground bearing raft. Where there were internal walls, the concrete was thicker with an extra layer of mesh. Walls were built off the slab. We also and compacted the Type 3, then the digger driver scraped out the areas for the walls, compacted, then blinding layer. Essentially extending the ringbeam internally.

No, just get it done. Ours was done in December. we only had a small area wash off. The silicone renders cure quickly, even in the cold.

We did it exactly as your building is proposing. If you don't have insulation, fitting the UFH is harder work as you have to attach to concrete rather than soft insulation. yes, perimeter insulation is needed as acts as an expansion gap.

So is all the driveway drainage going in to the aco in the middle there and then to a soak away? Where does the water go when the aco and soak away are overwhelmed? I hope there is flow to the road? Otherwise your house will flood. BC would not accept our patio drainage for that reason, we had to install a separate set of drains incase the primary got blocked or overwhelmed. And indeed, it's happened once that i know of. And agree with Jimbo, you're going to have damp issues all along the front there. An alternative is to install an aco channel drain all along the edge of the house, rather than the bricks. No caps on channel is fine if thet are up against something solid. Would be an issue if loose material could collapse in.

Where is the water coming from? If you're going to cut out and relay, I'd fisning the new surface 5-10mm lower, then come back a week later with a bag of self leveller.

Turn flow rates of your ufh zones down a bit.

Is your heating system working as expected / adequately?

Drill a couple small diameter holes through the door frame on each of the three sides then insert something like a small Phillips screwdriver until you hit the masonary to determine the depth, and therefore the true width. The holes can then be easily filled and painted over.

You won't be able to claim the VAT back on this work unless it's on your planning drawings. Go back to planning and get it added in, if you want to keep it. Otherwise it'll have to come down. So you have your planning passed yet?

BC and other parties were happy that the concrete in the ICF constituted adequate type B. I dont think I'd trust it in a full basement with hydrostatic pressure. In a partial basement, the tanking is more like a glorified damp membrane, as you SHOULDN'T get any hydrostatic pressure for any period of time.

You don't need the internal membranes or drainage. Money for nothing. If it's a partial basement, with perimeter drain and clean stone backfill, then the external membrane and continuous, consolidated concrete are enough. Our partial basement was 200mm ground bearing slab (300mm ring beam) with tanking membrane underneath and on top of compacted type 3 (permeable) stone. So same as your details above but without the internal systems. We've had zero issues in the last four years. We used Koster. We than had 200mm insulation and 50mm screed with UFH on top of the slab. Our SE couldn't get a insulated raft to work as would have needed EPS300 throughout which was cost prohibitive. We've 2300mm head height in the basement. The absolute key thing here is, you've two sides open, which means as long as you've a proper drain, and loads of clean backfill, then the tanking won't reply come in to play.

All sorted in the end. Two idiotic moments turned it in to a bigger job that nesecarry. 1. I missed a second isolation switch for the control module on the tank. 2. A sticky valve on one side of the pump that I didn't fully open. All Woking good. I've a potential tiny leak tho on the Flexi pipe to the ASHP. I need a bigger spanner.

You want an architect on board BEFORE you go to planning. Are you going straight for full planning, or just outline (if it's an option?) What's the circumstances of the plot?

Take it back to the supplier, get them to cut it to the right size. Though you might find somewhere in the small print saying their tolerances are something like +/- 5mm....