Conor

The SC, if it is the main one the supply, is the property of the water company and the point at which ownership normally changes. It's usually on the public side, close to the boundary. I'm not sure if the one your are describing is the main one, or how your supply is routed. Either way, make sure this one is accessible, if a meter were ever to be installed, it would be installed somewhere more accessible, in the public domain. Fyi a new meter is install is usually a small excavation, squeeze off of the existing supply, a new meter box, and a metre or so of new pipe, coupled to the existing pipe either side.

We looked in to the as well, told no by the manufacturer.

I have a friend who had this issue. They fitted a polycarbonte type roof to the underside of the joists, falling away from the house to a gutter. you'd want some sort of flashing / sill along the wall to direct water off the building.

Keep the upstand. The wood will be fine. I've 7mm laminate over a 50mm upstand and it's fine. I put a bead of silicone between the foam and boards, rather than underlay (as per the laminate instructions).

First question is, what is the weld doing?

I never had that issue, I put all three floors in to the one model and it gave me total heat demand at the top of the report. Make sure you get an ASHP that can easily do cooling, you're going to need it! You'll fing likes of May and September will be the difficult months and the sun is lower and will bypass your overhangs.

Create a service void along your ridge and have all the ducting run there. You only need 150mm or so. The. You run a single supply and extract duct up from your mvhr to manifolds housed in the void. keep it all withing insulated and airtight envelope.

He'll have to move it.

Ouch. You'll want to work on that glazing and reduce it. It's going to cost you a lot to run and potentially very uncomfortable in the summer. Has your architect done a full heat gain / loss model?

No, that's a reality I don't want to see 😭

Your first tport of call is to check your deeds and make sure these are not within an easemt / wayleave. Could also be part of the public sewer system if collecting form other properties. I see two beaches feeding in to the main line. Definitely right in tracking all those pipes to see what is what. From somebody that used to survey water network assets, chambers in people's lawns were the bane of my life. Please don't bury it 😭

Mine came with really short cables as the are designed to sit directly behind the panel. Installing them in the loft would be a real pain as you'd need more cabling (more voltage loss) and multiple penetrations through your roof membrane and airtight layer. Our ceiling is vaulted and only a 50mm service space, so once boarde dup you'd have to rip plasterboard off to get at them. PLUS they may not be properly ventilated and you might have overheating issues. Think that's enough reasons there not to do it

I found LoopCAD over estimated heat loss. Says ours was 9kW, reality closer to 5.5kW. maybe I got some setting wrong. I'd reduce spacing in larger areas to 150mm, 200mm in other areas. Flow temp of 32c. Should work well. LoopCAD assumes the UFH is the only heat source, and will give warnings if supplimentary heating is required.,

How long ago was this built?

Water will be coming through the tiles, down and out through the wall. What's behind the wall and under the patio? Are there drainage channels / slots int he wall?

Our joiners insisted on cheap ass silicone along with 50mm nails. None have fallen off. Im doing our basement room this weekend and will be taking the same approach.

If it were me, I'd just install a standpipe at the boundary, get connected up then do whatever pipework you want to without the water company messing you around. We ran our temp supply to the caravan over ground! Only froze a couple of times as we're near the sea.

You need to know the heat loss from each room, as they have pointed out. LoopCAD will do this for you. This will tell you the optimum pipe spacing and flow rates. I designed ours this way and seems to have worked well. You don't need floor probes or actuators. You set the flow rates as prescribed by LoopCAD and then fine tune as you get to know the realities.

Was thinking the same. Ours was 115m² L shaped, no expansion joints. Two layers of mesh and then a ring beam with more steel. Go by your SE's drawings / spec

Our joiners installed 2 stairs in one day - £440. I did the balustrading myself, was a real pain and took a couple more days. is yours largely pre-assembled? Does the price include painting/staining/oiling etc as well? Deffo a two man job, done in a day and a half, two max if there are complexities. Do you have a second fit joiner you've used for your doors, skirting etc? It's not a specialised job.

Dig it all out, level the ground with blinding, install whatever insulation thickness you need to get to floor level with 50mm liquid screed. Not putting insulation would be madness. if you are doing a complete renovation, building control will require you do do it anyway.

In practical terms, no issue if designed correctly. 50% of our main roof drainage goes via our balcony (basically a paved flat roof). Are you worried more in terms of planning / building control in regards to keeping the systems separate?

Deffo stick an inspection chamber downstream of the rest bend. You'll need to cover the pipe in concrete to keep BC happy.

Very happy with my reolink argus eco cameras. I've the WiFi version and during the build I setup a WiFi network with a 4g router. Worked well.

Two options really. One, get them professionally sanded down to eliminate the raised edges (the boards have cupped over time with changes in temperature and humidity) and stained, varnished. Second, and better long term options, is to lift the lot and put down some good quality laminate. Any gaps are trivial to deal with.