Conor

What's in the cavities? Have you checked? And as Redbeard says, you want 400mm in the loft. It's by far the easiest and most cost effective way to improve insulation in the house. A few have mentioned drafts, but if you have condensation issues, im not sure that's a big issue.

Make sure the foul is the lower of the two pipes. Check the building regs, for pipes that shallow you might have to cover in concrete. Paving might not meet the needs.

This will be one for insurance to sort out. Definitely don't start ripping stuff out. Make the notifications, kick up a fuss, but don't put your hand in your pocket.

Your fridge will make up the shortfall.... And remember that shortfall is on the coldest day of the year. And you've other heat sources in the house, and air movement from other areas. It'll be fine. Move on to the next job.

Stop the leak and park a dehumidifier there for a a few days. Quite possibly do more harm than good lifting the boards.

You assume the role of PC. Just update your documentation etc.

Thick carpet and underlay are your friends here. Job will be done and dusted this time next week and your house will be warmer for it.

We've carpet, towels, LVT and 14mm laminate. All works well. Apart from the but under the 1" thick wool rug 🤣

A weed membrane will stop the roots of any weeds getting down into the soil. But, by that point the plants will be big enough to be a nuisance anyway, so not a huge benefit.

Pipe needs to be straight and not pulling, these things leak easily, I've installed 100s of them. Strictly speaking, this is the property of the water company and you shouldnt be touching them, better option is to call them and say their meter box is leaking.

It'll just be an old clay pipe running in to a ditch. If in doubt, budget on a full new treatment plant and soak away / discharge and get it taken off the asking price.

Unless you were face into it with a grinder, drill etc with dust flying everywhere, there's almost no risk.

Only way to know is to get a sample tested. Plenty of companies offering that service. May as well do it and know for next time. But if it's all now sealed / covered up, then there is no point going back in at this stage.

I can't remember. Long gone from that house now. I think my spark supplied and fitted it, but almost sure it was a standard dimmer.

Yeah, pretty loud on the outside. Rarely ran mine full tilt. Yes, just ripped all the fan stuff out of the cheap hood I got from Currys.

£200-£500k That's assuming 250mm thick reinforced concrete. Allow about £1k per m2. No allowance for drainage, edge protection, access, egress etc.

I fitted the dimmer along the supply to the unit. I ripped everything out of the hood and dumped it, everything except the lighting went to the Monsoon unit outside. So two power supplies, one to the Monsoon via a dimmer, and another to the hood just to power the lights.

Something like 50mm eps glued to the inside would probably be enough. And lag the pipes.

You'll need continuous ventilation for the pitch roof at a minimum.

I got two lines of festoon lights. Brilliant. Worth the 30mins or so to screw in to the walls /ceilings. I've still got one setup on the underside of our balcony before I put in"proper" lighting. half tempted to hide the wires and leave them there instead of spending £200 on LED spots etc. I didn't bother with 110w, just 240v, perfectly safe if you've a properly installed board.

1. You don't need to use 22mm pipe at all. 15mm is fine for a shower. 2. Direct pipe routes. 3. Use 10mm pipe for basins. 4. You're over complicating it. 5. One pipe per fixture. No joins.

The sewer is public and you should be able to connect your foul sewage to it. It's nothing to do with your neighbour. It's not surprising the water company don't know anything about it, the pipe would never have been surveyed or drawings sent to the water company. You'll have to make an application and submit plans. There might be issues with that pipes capacity or the local network's capacity that will need to be checked by the water company. You WILL need to deal with surface water separately.

Can't normally share a domestic supply between properties. you'll ultimately need an independent supply for the new dwelling. That will be when you mortgage or sell. Bite the bullet and get it done now.

200mm insulation then liquid screed. So fairly typical except for ring beams instead of trenches, as we were already down into firm ground. External walls were ICF with tanking. We originally had it designed as an insulated raft, but SE couldn't get it to work.

Before it was finished, but you get the idea. Our reason for doing this was because it's a basement, we'd already dug out 400tonnes of earth and didn't want more coming from trenches.