Conor

We did our own estimate (based on an initial QS estimate) and asked the architect to put it on their letterhead.

Get the heating on and see if it's condensation. If it is, cavity insulation will help with this.

We had this, leak sealer solved the problem. Did a flush and added inhibitor at the same time.

Tree has to go. You can't normally dig within the root protection area, never mind against the trunk! You'll kill it. Was it on your planning drawings for removal? is it your tree on on the boundary? Did your SE not visit site / have photos?

Not quite the same, we did a basement with icf. The tanking was peel and stick Koster membrane. No primer on the EPS, straight on.

We batted back to about 60degrees. This was based on an assessment of the soil by the SE following a trial hole and a determination of soil modulus. A key thing to remember, is that weather and time are enemies of a stable slope. To help mitigate this you can employ various methods to stabilise the slopes. I chose to use woven membrane, overlapped and staked in to the ground, lapped under compacted stone at the top. At the bottom we had a sturdy catch fence to stop any material to spill in to the working area. No issues. through a wet winter. One corner was particularly wet with a constant flow of water the pulled out a bit of clay. had to be cleared out a few times. Also, critically, an exclusion area at the top of the slope so vehicle or material weight aren't too close to the top edge.

I think you are too tight to the LHS boundary. Do you have access to the plot from the back? If not, once you have footings in, it's going to be hard to get materials and plant round to the back. Where are you going to store materials during the build? Site toilet etc etc? Need to think a bit about constructability.

At 50mm spacing your bend radius will be really tight and tough to achieve in some places. You'll need to increase spacing to 100mm at room edges / corners to make it doable. But as above, something fundamentally wrong if you need 50mm pipe spacing. To modern standards, 200mm, or worst case 100mm, would be standard.

Hate to be a bore, but you need to ask your SE, it could be doing nothing, or holding the whole house together.

The SC, if it is the main one the supply, is the property of the water company and the point at which ownership normally changes. It's usually on the public side, close to the boundary. I'm not sure if the one your are describing is the main one, or how your supply is routed. Either way, make sure this one is accessible, if a meter were ever to be installed, it would be installed somewhere more accessible, in the public domain. Fyi a new meter is install is usually a small excavation, squeeze off of the existing supply, a new meter box, and a metre or so of new pipe, coupled to the existing pipe either side.

We looked in to the as well, told no by the manufacturer.

I have a friend who had this issue. They fitted a polycarbonte type roof to the underside of the joists, falling away from the house to a gutter. you'd want some sort of flashing / sill along the wall to direct water off the building.

Keep the upstand. The wood will be fine. I've 7mm laminate over a 50mm upstand and it's fine. I put a bead of silicone between the foam and boards, rather than underlay (as per the laminate instructions).

First question is, what is the weld doing?

I never had that issue, I put all three floors in to the one model and it gave me total heat demand at the top of the report. Make sure you get an ASHP that can easily do cooling, you're going to need it! You'll fing likes of May and September will be the difficult months and the sun is lower and will bypass your overhangs.

Create a service void along your ridge and have all the ducting run there. You only need 150mm or so. The. You run a single supply and extract duct up from your mvhr to manifolds housed in the void. keep it all withing insulated and airtight envelope.

He'll have to move it.

Ouch. You'll want to work on that glazing and reduce it. It's going to cost you a lot to run and potentially very uncomfortable in the summer. Has your architect done a full heat gain / loss model?

No, that's a reality I don't want to see 😭

Your first tport of call is to check your deeds and make sure these are not within an easemt / wayleave. Could also be part of the public sewer system if collecting form other properties. I see two beaches feeding in to the main line. Definitely right in tracking all those pipes to see what is what. From somebody that used to survey water network assets, chambers in people's lawns were the bane of my life. Please don't bury it 😭

Mine came with really short cables as the are designed to sit directly behind the panel. Installing them in the loft would be a real pain as you'd need more cabling (more voltage loss) and multiple penetrations through your roof membrane and airtight layer. Our ceiling is vaulted and only a 50mm service space, so once boarde dup you'd have to rip plasterboard off to get at them. PLUS they may not be properly ventilated and you might have overheating issues. Think that's enough reasons there not to do it

I found LoopCAD over estimated heat loss. Says ours was 9kW, reality closer to 5.5kW. maybe I got some setting wrong. I'd reduce spacing in larger areas to 150mm, 200mm in other areas. Flow temp of 32c. Should work well. LoopCAD assumes the UFH is the only heat source, and will give warnings if supplimentary heating is required.,

How long ago was this built?

Water will be coming through the tiles, down and out through the wall. What's behind the wall and under the patio? Are there drainage channels / slots int he wall?

Our joiners insisted on cheap ass silicone along with 50mm nails. None have fallen off. Im doing our basement room this weekend and will be taking the same approach.