Conor

The beam and piers highlighted pink will undoubtedly be holding ceiling joists and any partition walls above. But, anything is possible, with enough money.

Different scenario, but when I worked for a survey company, we had a min fee for turning up on site. Was £250, our half day rate. Didn't matter if the job took 10mins or 4 hours, it cost the same. My electrician is the same at £100 for showing up with his ugly face. Lots of trades do this because they have to plan in jobs and allow enough time to get them done. This does sound a bit harsh at £200 tho.

Which pipe is doing what? Please don't tell me the waste out pipe for the lot is that Flexi thing going UP at the back of the image?! If it is, then the whole thing needs to be replumbed properly so there is adequate fall after the trap. Can you provide any more context? Was this done recently or been like it forever? Where is the main sewer in relation to the photo? How does the 40mm waste pipe connect to the main 110mm sewer?

You won't get condensation on your cold pipes or cisterns, you cannot compare a static caravan to a passive house. Move on to the next problem 😃

Feck sake I've more walls to do and some patching and need it all to match! If you hear of any stocks let me know as I'll need a tub of the acrylic white

We've bought and sold many windows, doors and a conservatory on gumtree. Expect about £50 for your £400 window tho....

We laid our LVT down on 2mm foam underlay. Still had to do a fair bit of scraping and prep. Feels great underfoot

Just get a recirculating hood. The mvhr extract point in your kitchen will do the best. It works really well and I do not miss a big extracting hood at all. If air quality is a big concern, get an induction hob rather than gas (get one anyway as they are better!)

You don't want something with lots of fines. It will move about and the fines will washout. You want big stones. We used 100mm crusher run. We'll be skimming it with 50mm of 0-32mm stone, then gravel grids, and then granite gravel as the final drive.

Done. Quick feedback. The question regarding how much extra you'd be willing to spend on eco features could be broken down into sub categories, e.g heating, insulation, glazing. Also response based on a % value rather than absolute. You can then derive the value from the previous response on the building project value range.

Thats correct. Draws air from behind, expels to the front.

Just use a bit of copper wire to jump the volt free terminal on the unit. It'll get you working. The ashps own timer, flow temp, and weather comp settings will allow you to control the heat in the house.

Would you consider installing the next one in some sort of bund? I've a drain in my plant room I case something goes pop someday.

You'll just need to provide all the usual details . E.g. inverter spec, string / panel layout, and safety certificate. I'm in NI and had no issues but we've no MCS here anyway so comparing apples and oranges.

So this is the outer leaf of a cavity wall your neighbour is building? It's shit brickwork but if it's not yours and fence panels will cover it then where's the issue? Did you allow them access to build from your side or did the brickies have to build from the other side?

What are you building, what stage are you at, what are you comparing your B&B pricing to?

Need more details. Wall construction, purpose, who is building what etc.

Why do you want to use block and beam? What's the usual local way of doing it? Doing something different to what is typically done, will inevitably be more problematic, time consuming and expensive.

It doesn't really happen. We've ours set on weather comp on 7 hours per day (low rate overnight) with single stat set to 19.5c. During cold spells we just manually turn the heating on 24x7. There no need to control rooms individually. As you can see, temperature only varies by 1-1.5c every 24hrs, sitting at an average 28.8c. peaks are either heating periods or having extra people in the house. The big trough was when I had to open the doors to vent the house after some pungent stir frying

Can't you just take them off and replace with M14 nuts or whatever?

In that case upsize to 40mm before it goes through the wall and you won't have any issues. It's a bit of work but it's the proper job and no messing around with insulation.

What diameter is it? Should be 32 or 40mm.

That should work fine.

It doesn't need to be fireproof, check the wording, it's something like "predominantly non combustible materials". It's mostly aimed at reducing spread of fire on the surface of the structure. Basically no timber cladding. I built one with block walls, timber roof with fire retardant GRP covering. I checked with planners and BC through the process and everybody was happy. What's your planned roof?

-2c outside. 91% RH 18.5c inside. 41% RH 🫣 And that's with laundry drying upstairs and the mvhr on min fan speed. Heating off most of the day, just back on there at 5pm when we dipped down to 18c. My lips are drying and cracking as I type 😄