Declan52

Did you dig any trail pits to see the depth of the jelly strata???

Welcome. The north coast here is a beautiful area. I love ballycastle. Being able to make decisions for clients will work exactly the same when it's your time to pick an outcome. Don't panic over the small stuff that will undoubtedly arise and always know sh1t happens so try to take it in your stride. Plus there ain't any silly questions just silly answers.

Put a string line right across the front from one end to the other and see if it's just the one pillar out. You want the underside of the lintels to all be in line or you will notice it. Use a block on each end and corner blocks if you have them and move the line up on each side until they are all in line. Once you are happy they are all in line see how much exactly your out. Then it's up to you to either remove the 2 course of bricks and build them level to the line or pack the other lintels up to the high point and bed up so after the 3 course they will be all level. You can easily take 15mm out over 3 course. There really wouldn't be much difference in time either way.

So maybe 15mm??? How much more has to be built on top of these walls and along the lintels???

How much higher?? Would be easier to pack up the lintels on the rest and then bed a deeper mortar bed as you build along to a string line so they all end up the same height. But will obviously depend on how much higher it is.

If you are reading a post and you have nothing worthwhile to say maybe just don't post anything that will cause something that will obviously rile another member up.

I think with only 130mm to play with your going to have choose either heat or strength. A 50mm screed with 80mm insulation will give you enough coverage of the ufh pipes but not enough strength to be lifting cars up. 80mm of insulation over a suspended floor ain't great for keeping the heat in. I would just put concrete in at 130mm and live with the colder floor and look at beefing up the insulation in the walls and roof and garage door to try and keep it as warm as possible. Will this garage be an actual garage and have a car in it all the time or like most garages just end up a temp storage area for stuff to go to the dump.

Might be easier to lift blocks out of the floor and insulate it from underneath Or the easiest method is have none and accept it's going to be slightly cooler when you go in. If your working on your car then buy a blow heater which will heat the room very quickly. Your really only talking about a few hours at a time. If your on your bike then your going to be warm enough. Your main heat loss will be through the garage door so might be better to spend extra here on a quality door to help keep the heat in. To spend £4000 on insulation to heat a room your only going to use occasionally is a bit crazy.

Welcome. For a start the feeling that your a fraud is not true. Few here have done the complete build themselves with the vast majority handing the build over to a contractor or overseeing the job themselves until it gets to a point at which their skills allow them to take over and complete the build. Why do you need to insulate under the garage floor?? Is the garage attached to the house?? You don't really need to monitor the floor temperatures. I've been running ufh in mind for near 8 years without them. I use a room stat to monitor the room temp and then call for the ufh to start it is needed. Unless your really into data logging everything in detail then it's not really needed. For any questions you need help answering just post the question in the relevant section.

As above while we all give advise to help where we can this is certainly a matter where you will have to seek professional legal help.

Use a spirit level along a window or wall so we can guage how much the slant is. If you have had 2 surveys done and both going no structural issues then the issues will be cosmetic. Some people would call your issues character and love them while other people a wonky wall or window would drive them insane. The house is coming up on 70 years old so has taken a lot of abuse over the years.

You always end up pushing the dpc in the cavity esp if they are big heavy cills. Then your trying to lift one side and pull it back and it just is easier to do it at the time and lift them and drop them in.

Build them in as you go and lap dpc over them then cover them in sand to catch anything that falls.

Won't matter how much care you take the track will only pop off when it's buried in the deepest sloppiest muck on your site. It's just an example of how life kicks you square in the nuts sometimes.

Did you get a result for an air test?? A better score here isn't hard to achieve with some sealant and a few hours hard work.

I modified the cover with an extra hole for the chain tensioner to come through so it can take either chain.

I'm not sure there is a method to not have posts from an individual appear on your list of posts to view. Other than follow that person then you will get a notification they have posted and then avoid that thread. I'm only a mod, don't really get involved in the technical discussions that we have behind the scenes.

Exactly.

Your previous post is about long COVID, effects of COVID on non vaccinated people and the wearing of masks. None of which has a single thing to do with interest rates. The posts from other members before that where about their personal views on the lockdowns and masks hence the warning to keep it on track.

Once again and for the last time if you want to discuss interest rates then fill your boots in this topic. Having it out over what the government did and didn't do during COVID is not for this post . If you want to discuss that then maybe a self build forum ain't the place to have it.

By using 4*1 behind it will make it much stronger plus give you more fixing points for the fascia and when you come to do the spouting. It will also help when you come to put the ventilation strips on.

This is a post about mortgage rates not COVID so back on topic please.

What depth is the screed at these damaged areas??? Was it mixed on site or delivered???

Most of the builders yards have connections with various door suppliers. I had an account with lowdens so they use Doorways in Belfast. When I had the price for what I needed I went round the other places to see if any could beat it then went back to doorways with the quote that was less and they knocked money off to get the sale.

100mm of concrete will hold plenty of weight. Unless it's like Everest it won't make any difference. It's not going to be like soup and run down the hill. Tarmac laying is a skilled job. You will need plenty of tools like rakes and shovels and barrows if it's hot. Plenty of red diesel on each to stop the tar sticking to them and get it in as fast as your able. If it goes cold your in deep sh1t.