joth

Only snag with this is you probably want to oversize the inverter as most batteries can deliver 5kW plus, which is some upfront wasted capital on a 3.6kW array and also some unnecessary paperwork to jump through. The underlying point is sound, if money is tight don't spend capital on something easy to retrofit like a battery (and probably getting cheaper with time) at the detriment of anything hard to improve later like insulation or draft proofing. Even PV is fairly easy retrofit in the big scheme of improvements

This is the key question. Where is your meter going, relative to the new trench? Unless the meter is on the far side of the road (away from the house - very unusual if it's a public road) then this cable is specified and supplied by the DNO

Yup, I was on octopus Go and SEG for 4 years and it gradually improved over that period. (Took over a year to get export readings via smart meter, and a couple more for them to automate payments from it) *Hopefully* if enough people are on eon next it will likewise be worth them investing in automating these things. But somehow I expect this is all a loss leader and in a year or so they'll massively yank prices and we'll all be switching back to octopus again

We'll just trying to get some £££ out of eon for my export payments. Unlike import payments that they pull from my bank very enthusiastically every month, for some reason there's a lot of extra hurdles for them to send out SEG payments 1. have to setup direct debit a second time 2. They won't just credit the money against the import charges 3. Have to manually submit readings on the app every month (smart meter doesn't send readings, despite doing so for import and for octopus before them, and being a requirement of the tariff) 4. Have to also submit a reading via a crumby typeform along with a photo once a quarter... Still waiting for the £££

Looks like they're now targeting end of June 2025 https://www.ofgem.gov.uk/information-consumers/energy-advice-households/replacing-your-radio-teleswitch-electricity-meter

As I've suggested before, add monitoring/logging for the high and low pockets in the tank, I expect you'll see the top stays permanently at/above target and the bottom around 10°C or smth

Maybe not - this article mentions 73cm drop in Loch Ness if it was filling all three(?!) proposed schemes at once, which puts it in the right ballpark, and much higher than I imagined. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-67875061 Had to scratch my head for a moment, but yes the depth of Loch Ness is irrelevant, other than to say a drop in height of 50cm is a small fraction of it's 250m depth; if you live near the shore you'd surely notice the effect. Very real risk of sucking up some creatures and redistributing them to other Lochs though! My mind races back to the awesome (in the literal sense) "glory hole" spillway at Lake Berryessa.

Yes, my reading of the small amount of info on the page I linked above is it's diurnal, not seasonal storage.

The key info of the proposal is it's moving water between Loch Ness and Loch nam Breac Dearga, which sits 475m higher than Loch Ness. https://www.glenearrach.energy/post/glen-earrach-pumped-storage-hydro-facility-consultation At that height my rough calc is you need to lift 20 million tonnes of water to store 30GWh of energy (before efficiency losses) ((30000 MWh) / (475 m)) / (9.81 ((m / s) / s)) = 2.31772091 × 1010 kilograms This equates to a 40cm rise/lower in the level of Loch Ness, which seems too much to be viable.. (23 177 209 100 litres) / (56.4 square kilometers) = 41.0943424 centimetres Totally agree with the other points that Scotland does not need more wind turbines, but ISTM pumped storage would help make best use of the existing turbines and reduce strain on grid bottlenecks so probably a good idea IF the environmental damage of building it can be justified.

This is what I found I needed too. Setup my system as two zones: 1 for ufh (no buffer) and 2 for a single FCU with a volumizer tank in series. The FCU services different rooms through the day (office or bedroom) switched via duct dampers.

Simple timer for waking hours, and a pipe thermostat strapped on the return pipe (a few meters away from the tank) to shut off the pump when the pipework is up to temperature

Yes sorry you're probably right with the unifi flex. I was thinking of cheap unmanageable poe powered switch. I have one that has poe pass through which is very handy, which the unifi flex lacks

yeah, but no, but yeah - there's goood but no good when you realise it would be helpful to put HDbaseT and/or TosLink down a spare cable you never installed lol But agree those switches are good to get out of a pinch (assuming all devices are on the same VLAN, which is OK for everything but CCTV in my install)

I'm inclined to agree. CAT6a doesn't cost much more but adds agro as it's harder to source (esp if you want a selection of jacket colours) and harder to terminate correctly. The main benefit is thicker cores makes it a whisker more efficient for PoE power delivery, and shielding is never a bad I idea. I installed it and don't regret it, my bigger regret is not pulling enough cables to a couple locations (behind TV in particular, it's the one place I should have put ducting to and didn't)

We DIYed all CAT6a termination. Wall socket (and patch panel) is easy, just use a good quality punch down tool not the cheap flimsy plastic freebie If you need captive rj45 plugs on exposed fly lead e.g. WAPs and CCTV points they're a bit more fiddly, especially if using thicker (future proof) CAT6a rather than CAT6. Personally if my installer is suggesting mesh for backhaul rather than wired connection I'd be looking for a new installer, or certainly not rely on them for any design advice

Yeah, it's controlled by a Loxone server relay output; the whole lot is 24V

I forgot to add*, if you don't worry about WRAS then AliExpress have much cheaper versions of exactly the same thing . The benefit of servo driven rather than conventional valve is they use no power when at rest, and much quicker response times. * - in my defence I was at 3000m elevation in a ski hut restaurant when I wrote previous post 😅

2 port valves generally aren't wras approved are they? I went for one of these, ABVM08S/9AR https://www.solenoid-valve.world/c/1589 They do normally open or normally closed versions. I went NC as I'm confident my control system won't cut power to it accidentally. Being 24V makes battery backup for it simple.

No they're from ventilation land, who supply matching plenum box with 200mm duct spigot. I use 200 duct throughout to reduce the noise. I've not actually bothered with return ducting, just relying on negative pressure in the loft to let air find a way around. I think dedicated return is better if you can. I'll see if I can find photos of the loft side but it's not pretty 😂

Yes best to find another installer. Most likely they're also not applying your target airtightness so having a much higher heat loss per room. Do you have a PHPP of other heat loss model you can share? If you wanted you could consider UFH on additional floors, it is handy for a bit of active cooling. But we didn't put any heating upstairs and never regretted it (enerphit passive house retrofit)

The incoming supply should be protected by the dno fuse on the cut out before the meter.

Yes, this will be the fourth summer running it. It's a systemair FCU rebranded as Panasonic. Ducted into linear supply grills in three bedrooms. All documented and photos in the OG FCU thread here Linear grills I had a custom output plenum made for the FCU by ductstore.co.uk

Yes I've been on eon couple months now and even made my own referral successfully. Sorry you never got your bung, let's follow up by DM

^ this probably said it better than I have Nit picking: more heat than the emitters can dissipate. If the boiler is producing more than the house can dissipate it means its summer and time to turn the heating off 🙃

Absolutely; when we set out selecting an architect we didn't really know the scope of the project (from a modest "passive house inspired" remodel right up to knock down and rebuild) But by the time we'd completed planning application (in a conservation area), detailed design, BR sign off, and ready to issue tender pack, 99% of the variables you mention had been fixed, so to mind this was the right time to fix pricing. (There was an additional bargaining point, that this was the architect's first certified PH so a portfolio project, and one contractor wanted to whisk us off into a D&B contract, so there was incentive for the architect in having us stick with them. But even without those factors I think it'd still be a good time to fix pricing if it's not been done before then)