Jilly

I've had 2 triple glazed units fault within a couple of months. Still waiting for them to be replaced ?

Some options: More insulation, triple glazing, roof velux to let some heat out?

I'll try and squeeze a bit more PIR in. So PIR is ok with the wires? (I'd intended to change after reading that Celotex degrades or something, so now I'm back to PIR!). Is it ok for the wires to go through the screed? He has used trunking, but only on the straight runs. Thank you.

Hello, just trying to get my head round wet UFH in our conversion: The concrete is rough and unlevel in places so I'm hoping the screed will even things out, there is approx 200mm available in some places, but it varies. I'm planning: 10mm slate floor 65-70mm screed 100mm PIR The electrician has put the ring main on the floor so need to tuck the DPM under it. Is this ok touching the PIR? I read EPS can degrade plastic?? DPM ?? 10mm sand blinding?? or EPS?? Which sand is best? original rough concrete slab with a slight slope Which diameter of UFH pipes and which spacing is best to be the most flexible? Going to start with a Willis heater and save up for ASHP, but might need a boiler . Thank you!

Can you see what I mean from this? Yes, I need to adjust inside and outside levels. I think BC want something permanent. Maybe I could ask the window people if they make something?

Doing a stable conversion/ retrofit. My new patio doors have a usual threshold and the bottom comes to the level of the DPC (150mm). I've spoken to BC and they are happy that I make this the disabled access, so is there a way of bringing the screed up to near the edge of the patio door to create a low threshold (I didn't think ahead on this)? It would let me get more insulation in for the UFH, but would create an awkward detail and the screed might crack there. Would a paint on DPM on the inside of the door threshold be a good idea?

I feel for you, sounds much worse than the bats! You might be surprised how much can be flexible if you explain your predicament and look for solutions together.

Go for it! I got a tool box one Christmas and never looked back.

Congratulations! Looks like you have a fab architect ?

Just for perspective, as Gus discussed, the architect's technician I took on who seemed cheaper ended up cost a lot more than it would have been through the architect through it not being in house, and he made a big oversight in one area, which was expensive, but essentially my fault for not picking it up. The second higher price may be because they have to get up to speed with an awful lot of detail they can't discuss across the table. Architect 1 may refuse to release the CAD drawings...

I wish I'd had Gus's advice above 3 years ago! My build would have cost a lot more, but be finished by now, if I had stayed with my original architect. She was expensive, but invested in my build, and I didn't realise, through inexperience, what she was bringing to the table. I lost faith because I didn't understand the process, and it felt scary when she told me I needed to spend a lot more than I intended. There was nothing wrong with what she was doing but she wouldn't/couldn't work to my budget, so I felt we should part. I had loads more problems by changing, so although I've saved money, the extra stress and time it has taken probably wasn't worth it.

I understand your conundrum, I also have a small budget at the moment, but am optimistic for the future! To save money and minimise the amount you want to borrow, perhaps start with a small place but have plans to extend when finances allow? It's much easier to borrow on an existing building. Also, living on site in a static is the classic self builder way to save money, slow self build is cheaper so long as rent isn't swallowing up your cash. Once you have broken ground your planning permission is usually locked in til you are completed so you can steady the ship. It can be stressful journey with a stack of unknowns so it's important to control your finances.

I did ours as a preventative thing with non toxic borax, but there were no actual holes. It was about £100, I think for the stuff for a small area and we did it ourselves. I guess you might be better with the nasty toxic stuff which definitely works...

I've yet to find a plumber who knows what a Willis heater is, let alone want to fit one.

Is it possible to stay warm enough like this in winter? We'll have a small 1 bed bungalow (with a high ceiling in the main room), it will be reasonably well insulated, but I'm really struggling to decide on a central heating system because I've got an article 4 directive so can't have a woodburning stove I'd like, until we have completed, and I can apply for planning permission (I have free wood)

I decided to go with the local authority for inspections as a friend got caught out when their private building control company went bust (I believe post Grenfell the industry had difficulty getting insurance, I'm not sure what the situation is now).

Not sure I can answer your question exactly, but I know exactly how you are feeling, it's very frightening and not completely rational. What has happened has happened, you can't take it back, only move forward. Can you send the kids to friends/ grand parents whilst you clean up/calm down so you don't frighten them? Fear isn't a fact. Remember damp is your friend. Wipe the surfaces and chuck the cloths. Throw everything you can in the washing machine. Anything which got through the window will be minuscule. I had asbestos soffits in an old house and had them covered with plastic glue on soffits to prevent dust. Is there some way to adjust the design? Do the Paul McKenna minimising thing, it really helps. Shrink it down and move it far away so its just a tiny thing in your mind's eye. So it's there, but you can forget about it. Then figure out how best to manage your risk going forward.

The neighbours are probably more irritable because that have been working from home.

Yes, I am worried about off gassing, I've got asthma. I could just have the external walls plastered instead but was trying to make the walls warmer feeling. I wasn't going to put a vcl on the wall (only on the vaulted ceiling). Is that daft...?

I'm doing a stable conversion so can't be a purist. The roof has to be a cold vaulted ceiling with a steel ridge beam (which will have to be independently insulated (methods suggestions welcome), so needs a VCL to stop condensation from the kitchen. However, the external walls (140mm block) have 70mm Celotex EWI with breathable membrane. (It's sufficient for building regs 0.22 W/m2K) I'd like to put a bit of hippy breathable internal wall insulation, I'm thinking 25mm cork board. All of this is sold to go with lime plasters, but will it be ok with gypsum plasterboard as no one seems keen to use lime at a sensible cost?

I think lots of us have had occasional accidental short exposure. There's nothing you can do now except put it out of your mind and stay calm and mitigate any future exposure risk. I think the whole building thing heightens your general anxiety levels. Paul McKenna has some good exercises where you visualise the thing you are worried about and shrinking down to a very small thing far away, which can be helpful to get things in proportion. Wash all of your clothes and shower too, which I'm sure you have done. Watering helps damp the dust down, get appropriate PPE. Make sure whoever is responsible does the risk assessments and don't let them be gung ho.

I have some friends who couldn't get planning permission to demolish and rebuild but ended up using PD rights on the old building to get something bigger in the end anyway. Tell your grandparents to get tax advice.

I've heard terrible things about the spray stuff. If you have bituminous roofing felt, you are right, it needs a 50m breather gap.

What about other utilities? I was charged £3k for water and £12k for electricity, but co-ordinated them using the same trench and road closure so I got a £6k refund from the electricity people, but they wouldn't deduct it in advance in case of complications, so I had to take the risk, they wouldn't.

Time to plant a Leylandi hedge?!