scottishjohn

my only worry would be not the expoxy coating in it self -- but if the floor does absorb moixture from underneath then I would worry that the expoxy might become unbonded then it could crack --then moisture could come through If iwere goign to put down expensive hard wood flooring ,then i think Iwould be thinking about ripping it up --putting ina proper vapour barraier and relaying it cos there iwll be no barrier at the edge of floor to brick wall --so again another place for it to crack the epoxy and leak do some more hunting beofre you make a decsion and will one of the expoxy makers warranty it will be a real impervious water barrier ? and this si a quote from thier application spec Remove all surface dust, etc., by industrial vacuum cleaning. Machine scarifying or shot blasting will be necessary for removal of incompatible curing agents, admixtures or other stubborn surface contamination. Shot blasting is also recommended on lightly polished surfaces. so now you got to get a sand blaster!! It could work fine -your call

yes I understand altering the angle will drop summer and increase winter --which for FIT is not good --but maybe worth it to me for winter water as daylight hours are short will do the numbers and see the advantages of a ground mounted array --you can alter it as seasons change

how much do you consdier miimal in percentage terms

one for the guru,s of PV when i used my soalr thermal I noticed that although ideal angle was same as where you live --like mine is 55 but by making it steeper you got less in summer but more in winter this was worth doing to help mitigate over heating of tank in summer and increasing it in spring + autumn+especially winter there was a man in denmark who hung his solar thermal panels vertically on the wall -for that reason is it as noticable difference with solar PV It maybe the nature of PV panels which are flat and not round like the tube s on thermal panels that is is not as critical I ask this because my current thinking is to run solar powered water pumping and in winter of course the suns angle is much less and that is when my lowest flow rate for pump will be --summer its 4 times as much so loosing a bit there is no problem Yes I could fit more panels but that increases everything and thats not needed for most most of the year or point me at a site where I can get the correct info

I presume the quotes were for supply and build and cover in house wrap /ready to fit batons and roofing tiles -or what everv on a prepared base no windows doors etc

just hope the fire brigade don,t come and do a test on them

I must be thick or something SW do not get involved in private pumped systems or anyhting with a break tank and what to do all plumbing up to their meters . you say there is no meter on the main connection at site boundary -which would imply its a domestic supply but it is 90mm both sides of the main shut off boundary valve then someone has dropped it to 32mm from then on which no doubt suppies the hydrants -If hyrdrants were part of the planning requirement thats why it was 90mm mains supply I have never heard of meters being fitted by SW to anything other than their supply pipework as they would have to maintain meters and pipework something wierd going on last reply to this and i can see why you don,t want to ask SW to look at it

where abouts - I,m in same area can give you contatc for man that could drive it for you --with insurance, he is a contractor -did all my serious digger work message me if you like

maybe ask for quote for machine +man for a day

yep that happened close to me and I knew the farmer that fell off and man driving the telehandler

so you pay sottish water for the metered water from the main conection where their meter is and its 90mm after that and no other connection except your parents house come from the main supply -it then goes to break tank where you then pump it up to your storage tank - or do you have no pump and mains pressure feed the storage tank at top of hill If so then that your problem at minimumpressure -1bar- it won,t get up to tank 10m head is only 1bar of pressure --so if 1bar they won,t get good showers and if all 7 get up at sme time pressure wil be very bad you could make it beter by fitting accumlators in each chalet which will hold the pressure up for longer

who are THEY I still get the feeling that you are not the only user of this supply you have 7 chalets --how many others pulling from it and the 300m from scottish water stop tap and main meter --how much lower is that and what dia pipe is coming to the tobywhere the water board meter is --maybe its only 50mm coming in then going to 90mm

so this cannot be your own direct connection to mains then -but a sub connection on another system not sure what use the fire hydrants are going to be if you loose pressure . how far to get your own dedicated supply not ocnnected to anybody else? and if only 25m head from your storage tank then max pressure at lowest chalet will be 2,5bar static pressure -7 chalets pulling off that sounds like possible problems to me If Ihave read your system correctly then the solution is move 2700litre to bottom as the break tank -then a decent pump and raise line pressure from there onwards

re-reading your fist post do you mean your chalets do not have thier own deicated supply direct from water board EG you pay water board for supply ,but you are connected to another scheme If so then your problem will be there --not enough volume and how far down the hill is the REAL water board connection where the meter is

correct that,s why you need good pump and suitable size break tank to lift it up to your storage tank If you already have your tank at the top --then i can see why you don,t want to change it- but then that means all chalets rely on gravity --is that correct ? your 90mm runs from mains to your header tank? then what size run from tank to chalets and what size is the mains coming to site 25mm ,32mm ? you should never have zero flow from mains to fill break tank-if so then it is thier problem

scottish water are bound by law to provide you with a minimum of 1bar --so speak to them and if pump system is at bottom then even less than that should fill your break tank ,presuming it is of a sensible sizeso you are not draining it quicker than using it put a gauge on the mains line and then you can see what is going on

already answerd that one earlier in this thread

why do you need a tank -if you got mains water and only 25m head --just a bigger pump and feed them all direct with pump after yout break tank - 25m-call it 3bar +2bar pressure at end of line +another bar to allow for friction =6bar pump if you have correct pipe sizing a quick look at pipe flow rates will tell you -but 90mm pipe is a big one considering houses quite often only have a 25mm -a snall accumlator in each should sort out any glitchs as others turn things on quite sure the welsh plumber will be along at some point to correct me if i,m wrong

I think you chalets would be classed as commercial --that will be why its metered only domestic non commercial is not metered I need 12bar minimum to get it up the hill and give 1bar at tank so needs big pumps , so my solution is similar -as in I will have a 3000litre storage tank I checked with defra and there will be no problem with stagnation with mains water unless very long period of no use-if seasonal then drain for winter when i asked them i was looking at possibly my house + 6 chalets ,so was looking at a much larger tank 25000ltre and private supply which could be subject to very low flow in summer when most usage ,so was giving myself a 3 week drought scenario where flow rate could be down to 2000litres a day or less all the said was they would suggest i drain the tank at end of season or maybe use more smaller tanks -one in each chalet +ultraviolet in each chalet,so i could drain them down if not being used for long period . all the chalets would be belwo my house so no low pressure issues still talking to the grunfoss sqf flex suplier to fine tune the volume etc --but using solar saves me the problem and expense or running a 3 phase cable450m down the hill to power the pump station -admitted it was a larger flow and would run at 2000litre per hourand give 2 bar of pressure -but evne cutting down the volume Istill am stuck with expensive cabling -voltage drops etc and am ore expensive pumpset -up there is no battery back up just runs as fast as the solar gives power -can run on 30-140vdc ,or ac if you want is specced to give 1000l per DAY in dec +jan --and 4000lper day in summer months --so still thibnk i could run a couple of chalets on this set -up--assuming average usage of 150-200litre perday per person I am considering adding another panel -spec says 3 x 275w panels --just to be sure with enough panels the pump can give a 200M head of water-more panels more head and volume -simple pressure sensor at lower end decides when to shut pump down when ballcock at top tank closes --actually its a different sort of valve that does not flutter like a ballcock --but you know what i mean not cheap by the time you have controller for pump and panels anda s/s accumlator and panels ==looking like £3500+vat =a break tank to drop the borehole pump into --sideways but the other pumping station was going to be more expensive + load of money for cabling +cable joiners -+still needed break tank +larger dia piping to go up the hill same work to dig and bury the piping

no water metering in scotland --so its not that expensive in annual costs --certainly will be cheaper than Uv and filtering requirement servicing --could need special filters for dissolved minerals in own water-arsenic is a common problem in granite areas and I know we have an old copper mine a couple of miles away as well as old lead and silver mines in the area and of course no 100% warranty they will find enough water when they drill anyway ,especially as I have that big hole very close to me --and Iknow it has water feeding it from the rock faces so on balance I think mains is the definite solution

could not find a a slant driller ,but ball park figures from 2 different companies is in the 10-15K price range --so pumping up is a lot cheaper

Ihonestly don,t know I did ask one company if they could slant drill into the lake -but from that company answer was no but maybe will try to find another company -,noy t sure how a horizontal bore hole would owrk -would have to be gravity to get water out if hole to collection tank

UPDATE went for an excursion to find the source of the nile -known as my original water supply results not good --found where it is running open in the field,probably opend up by farmerfor sheep ?since house was last used 60 years ago --but it appears not from a spring but from another stone culvert even If i could fence it off or makes him some sort of drinking pool there it is about same distance to pipe it to house as bringing it up from road and lots of dykes to go through .all presuming the farmer would agree to alterations I can not find where that comes above ground further up the hil but did find other "issues" coming out of the ground wwhich go back into ground ,but again all open to sheep drinking +crapping Ithink best descitpion of it is aculverted field drain and not a real spring,even though it runs all year maybe when it was first made in 17 80,s and the farm was not there then,no farm till about 1840,s --then it collected good water. somone spent alot of time making a 600m +long stone culvert to get some sort of supply for the house I am thinking no proff no plans or maps to tell me anything So on reflection I have decided not to use it for my drinking water supply will still be good for garden water+ a pond the question now is do it collect this dubious water to use for toilets etc and cut down volume I need to pump up hill getting more complicated every day this project so back to pumping it up the hill from main road I could opt to pump water from the quarry lake --but same amount of work only then I need to clean it up and as there is NO water metering in scotland for private supplies--just part of the rates and NO idon,t think I would get away with attaching a pico power turbine to mains supply--did think of it though .LOL will update this thread with all specs once I have them for sure

to make your panters precast concrete fence or sillage pit panels and just pour the ends to tie them together? maybe even get them s/h for the taking away ?

that would be down to the operator --but talk to a contractor i did it with a building in scotland --a stone one which had been pianted for over 100years --all came off and very little damge to the mortar -such that only places i repaired were bits where the paint was broken and was missing before the sand blasting. maybe if it looks good you might not want to paint ?-Ididn,t repaint mine -looks far better in the stone