scottishjohn

treat exterior walls once old render is removed with permagaurdmicro shield ultra or other similar product as long as pointing is ok then it will definatly work and stop an ingress through the stone work check it out will seal up to 2mm gaps worked a treat on my old house -- do not even bother with thompsons or similar cheaper type products do it once and do it right goes on like wallpaper paste and gets sucked in and drys clear and does not change colour noticably of the stone in about 2-3 hours job done for next 20uyears +

his problem is poor preparation nothing else it needs to be flat like a slate bed from a snooker table -absolutely dust free before you start laying -- then it easy any imperfections in floor slab will show through using a hand held 9£ grinder will never work --needs to be the unit that looks like the old school floor polisher with extraction --big and heavy

Or we could start building stone houses again but with modern cutting equipment when I looked at I found chineese company that would supply granite building blocks any size with a 1mm + or - tolerance if they can do it so can we and we plenty of granite and other stone in this country use thinset mortar and lay with a digger as i have in my many wall constructions - then just build a TF inside insulted how ever you like no external finishing and there for the next 300 years

thats because the door and its frame it fits too are designed with lots of shapes in them to give rigidity and rubber seals --at least 2 sealing rings in effect not exactly burglar proof as you can usually flex the top half enough to get in how many house doors make secondary noise and vibration when you shut them -- cos they only held into the flexible wooden frame by about 6 fixings with packers the best metal door in a building you will see are the modern fire door assemblies --which are meant as much to stop break ins as anything else not pretty or cheap and none have any sort of insulation that would comply with any regs but once you get to van back doors which still are not as big as a house door they often deform in a very short time with use we all know it can be done --but costs will be the problem the ,modern door assembly has its faults but pretty good overall to me the way forward is wall sections made in factories on an assembly line any length you like--one storey high and holes cut in them for frames and all insulation already fitted--"sips" style certainly the house would go up in a day roof sections the same done right it would cut down on need for trusses -just add slates or tiles to taste maybe be channels in walls for services would be good ==but full finished --too inflexible

plastering robot --thats a joke no way it would work in real world

loosen and give them a twiddle you will see what they do

I think the choice will depend on the floor covering sounds like a good place for old fashioned viynl or armstrong type floor covering

what ever the casue and some more investigation since i posted tells me the cement board that are laid over the piping sheets --to act as heat sink should also be glued together with a special foaming type adhesive which allows for movement so the solution is not one i want to contemplate --ripping it all up and doing it the right way--i cannot see the builder doing it and cost to do would be very high new lvt -- new self levelling and cement boards etc - i think i will have to live with my ghosts

no thats all down to you i,m afraid maybe sander with good dust extractor and alot of PPE

thats down to the professional floorer to point that out --before he lays it maybe to afraid not to get the job if they told you the real story up front I measure a spare bit I had today -- 2.5mm --thats all so its not going hide anything when rolled down tight the thing my guys used looked like avery clean garden roller and it took 2 of them to lift in in another wee picture before they started laying the lvt -- they did it with skirting all fitted a picture i took today -nearly 2 years after being done

all house is UFH but the upstairs was done with cut out polystyrene panels that they pushed the pipes into in the room with ghosts the supply to an ajoining bathroom and dressing room pipes also run around the perimeter sometimes when things go on I get noises downstairs like someone is walking about on a creaky floor I am guessing it is the panels moving when I told the builder and suggested that maybe the panels should have been stuck down -- he assure me -- as you would expect that they are not supposed to be stuck down --according to maker another lie i presume? impossible to fix now as there is self levleling layer and stuck down lvt on top

If you think the ivy is only going to grow on the mesh you are kidding yourself maybe the main vine will but side shoots etc will come out and stick to the wall behind it over time its what ivy does look at the picture it got under neath a top wall stone --which weighs approx 150kg and just moved it out of the way -- it could have grown over it --but didn,t it then bridged the gap to the tree approx 10inches and then grew up the tree another 40ft and pushed the other top stones off the wall you can see where i cut it in many places main ivy will be approx 6inches in dia there was a gap under the trunk and stone was in mid air before i chopped you really want something with that strength growing into your wall

yes but i was going to have it a closed system and fill from my source with inhibitor to look after the heat pump

I tried to get permission to use that for my house supply with suitable treatment but as usual it is not acceptable in uk for planning or building control not sure how that any different than using water from bore hole or stream -- but they would not accept it so we ended up with a bore hole and uv +filters etc there were however fresh water shrimp in the original supply if you put it through a big drum --we were using that for the concrete +mortar mixing best of it was when we checked both the original supply from the circa 1730 stone culvert coming down the hill and my bore hole -- there was less bacteria content in the stream than the bore hole and also it was 50% less hard reason for that would be the rainwater entering the stream would be soft and all bore hole water has travelled through lots of rock over a long period of time Is it the possiblity of radio active pollution in rainwater?

its actually a 16kw -- big house --these folk just find it easier to say no I suppose they could be worried of a leak from the piping into the lake--antifreeze will certainly kill everything

and just accept that paint stripping is a very time consuming and nasty task

this will be why my guys insisted on self levelling then grinding it and checking again the moisture content before fitting the LVT the lvt will only be about 3mm thick --so will follow contours if there are any and as with most things the the preparation is the important bit to get a perfect job

stop cock should have a non return valve in it --so you cannot pollute the mains -

the quarry pond is millions of litres -maybe 100m long and 50 m wide and 30 m deep it was just a a straight NO from them

their reason to me was it would alter the temperature of the lake and effect the life cycle of some pond dwellers

not if you tell the wildlife police -- they will not allow it due to damage to pond life already been there I looked at ground source heat and no installer would warranty amount of heat from hole till it was done --so you might need more than one gave that the side step works in sweden/canada etc etc where winter temps are very low for a long period -- but really that good in uk ASHP is the right choice for uk

the right thing is to hire floor grinder and make it totally flat

just don,t forget to fit the liner to the plastic pipe before using a compression fitting on it

there has been a damp issue in the past or they would not have fitted vents -- they were not there in original build for sure. the man who did the relaying is a dipstick to even consider having them even level ,never mind higher than the vents looks like a drain down point for heating as well -- it must have been a good bit lower before i am guessing the floor level is just above the vents or they would have put them in higher as previously said you need to lift the patio and lower it a good amount it will cause problems as it is now the unfortunate thing for you is rising damp will not go up more than about a metre --so the problems are all yours so minimum to do is slot drain units across the patio to allow it to get away into garden - these will be at least 4-6" deep so end will be lower than the wall hire a sthil saw and cut a track wider than units and cement them in a wee weekend job

this is exactly what you and bebub are doing --just making pointless and demeaning posts at everyone every one last time I post on anything but build topics to get abused by the likes of you who obviously get some sort of perverted feeling of superiority from it