scottishjohn

you keep going on about this I assume the people who make super cold storage facilities know what they are doing as heat loss costs them money --not one of them use blown fibres all use pir insulation so it must be better --the bean counters would soon work out which way costs them less to keep temp at -40c when outside can be +30c. so you are perfectly entitled to your opinion ,but I will go with what the big money people use,where initial cost is secondary to running costs . If you gonna make your house super insulated and air tight the top rooms are always going to be hot in summer as heat rises.

why would you use timber splines? use proper insulated splines and if required have a gable to gable support at half distance from ridge to top of walls and yes you will need a services void so batton out inside and use foam backed plaster board if you need to I doubt you will if you go for a 175 or200mm sips panel --you can even get 225mm sips easily now

lucky you dumfries&galloway will definately want you to alter your build to suit any news regs if you go for an extension .

yes probably a few things --check with your architect or planners some insist on waterproofing both inside and out and a sump and bilge pump as well as a french drain around outside coupled to a drain , nad very picky on type of back fill to the membrane depending on how high local water table is and or type of ground . basements don,t come cheap

rooms in roof space then sips will give you more space than anything else if ridge height is a problem. but you could build with ICF and have a sips roof so many choices I know cos i,m going through same things myself

on further reflection i think i,ve been talking nonsense so I checked with my expert grp roofer friend its a balcony so it must be flat ? i guess you did not tape the osb joints ,so the water will have gone to underside as well ? the roofer always lay board and grp it the same day . so if you want perfect --its strip them off and start again , anything else will be open to possible problems later on . he won,t even put grp on old osb after stripping off a roof felt -always needs new t&g roofing boards + then the grp hes done hundreds and not one comeback he uses t&g so there is no area where there could be a joint problem + even adds a little pva glue to each joint as he puts them together. hope this helps

but if you look at cfs site it says apply to DRY clean substras --not to damp surface --.still say a wee test --if it drys clear and a bugger to pull of it should be fine --or just wait till its all dry thats 100% fix

yes its very hard cos his idea of just slightly damp might not be our idea of slightly damp-- yes most resins will blush if alot of moisture present --the wee test might show that and then he knows he gotta wait till its all dry .some of my gutter repairs did that ,but doing in mid winter its not suprising ,but i did use 2% hardener to make to go off quick due to temp--still there holding the rusty old gutters together and water tight --maybe the exothermic reaction dried it out a bit .LOL

so go to plan 3 try a small area today and try to peel it off tomorrow, he don,t want to spend money he already said that

PVA? that mixs with water then drys a;ways used to seal blockwork+ give a bond coat before hard plastering , wheres the grp going to go once its a complete sheet any way . you got some thin sheets of dry ply -nail that onto osb and bobs your uncle --osb will soon dry out under it you could always mix up a very small amount and try an area and see if you pull it off next day --if its stuck no problem

the way we built our big workshop 30x24m 30years ago was to make footings just for the pillars ,then drop in frame level it up and fill around rsj,s with concrete. the main workshop floor was then done seprate - 10" thick on 2ft of well packed hardcore.still here and no subsidance 30 years later . strip founds between posts for block work .but if hanging panels on frame to gorund level --you won,t need much as a strip between posts But modern monews i,ve seen are done as raft with bolts to fasten frame now -could be change in regs ? i remember the steel constructors trying change our minds about hot dip galv on frames --glad we did it -never had to paint it and still looks like new

Ihave built a copule of industrial workshops with steel --,but for normal house the only reason ican see for using portal frame is if going grand designs with all sorts of cantilevered flying lounges . sips have enough strength for a house ,so why the steel? a long way for a short cut yes value seems possible if sips totally envelope steel frame -- look at industrial portal buildings using composite panels if that the way you want go they get same sort of values but with finish as well..

Ohh isee --my mistake

you really want a sewer manhole in house ? what if sealing is not good? --and sealed ones will be expensive -surely better a bit more plumbing +bends if required and have it outside that would be my first choice?

now i don,t about english law ,but in scotland anything hanging over from nieghbour you can cut off . so maybe you cut off the roots on your side of boundary and build foundation at least at that point down to below where roots are ?. in scotland you cannot build within 1 m of boundary as well -- So i am suprised you can even build within 10" anyway

a slope --a ramp for your wheelchair later?

I agree with JS --having also been doing grp +epoxy for 40years ,and also built a europa which is full epoxy wings. there is a special resin which may help it is used for emergency gutter repairs and is set by unltraviolet light, preactivated --it is sold with a 28 days use by date on it and once you open it you need to use it sets in less than an hour It is not cheap ,but does adhere to damp surfaces,so maay be one coat of this then on with normal grp on top of it --20years later gutters are still water tight would copy you site --but changed ocmputer since then.. CFS will know all the different solutions for sure --i also use them

how much was the machine? about £10k?-then drums of stuff attach link please you will need nearly twice as much to get same U value for open cell as pur sheet with foil backing

my first guess would be it was filled because it leaked,so assuming it would be tanked is dangerous Me I would knock out the walls of it and hardcore it as any other foundation and carry on mybe you can get concrete crusher on site cheaper and you use it as hard core? or just disc cut the walls and use them as hard core in bit bits on the pool floor

looked ideal for refurb of old building to bung up all the air leaks ,looked at this type before for exsisiting house,but not something you can DIY when iasked for costings its costs about same as pur foam but gets into all the nooks and crannies that most builders will not take the time to do or realistically cannot get to on an exsisting building. so yes for an old building and refurb ideal solution Ive seen stables use it on the old roofs from underneath to stick all the slates together --great for that also stops the corrosion of the beams by hot horse Pee fumes

If I had built roof same as you have done I would probably come to same choice , as fitting insulation between trusses is a pain and you have alot of space to fill.

manhole in utility is a bad idea last ditch --you would need special manhole--sealed type and do really want the chance of problems inside house.

I certainly wouldn,t be using inside of sip as ceiling I would still batton out for service void+air gap and then use foam backed drywall . do your upstairs rooms have slanted walls or a flat ceiling?

they will be airtight if you put them together correctly with some low expansion foam on joints . rot is again an installer induced problem --like laying roofing layer directly onto sips with no breather gap or just single battoning under slates to give a nice dam area for water to sit. I couldn,t believe the first typical scottish "sarking board" roofs with slates nailed directly to them that I saw --but then it was obvious they had gaps between boards and same temp either side of the sarking --no insulation in those days plenty of space for water to get out and of course wood 200years ago was a different thing . yes there is a limitation to span,as with all things without some gable to gable support beams at ridge and one half way maybe I,m no structural engineer so length i cannot say , but it will still be far less intrusive and more usable space up there than other systems if you have any ridge height restrictions. and of course the main roof structure is on in a day

I take my experience on a sips roof from comparison of filling my flat garage roof with similar kingspan insulation before it was done it was very hot in summer and very cold in winter ,as in cold enough to freeze the water tap in there,now it does not freeze and in summer it no longer a hot box, blown anything will not compete with PIR unless as you have found are 3 to 4 times as thick . double battening of roof gives you at least a 76mm air gap -100 if using 50mm battons and nothing insulates better than an airflow and keeps everything dry I have an industrial seafood cold store on same estate as my motor biz and its made from pir --only 6" thick --and i even went out with my thermal temp gun and checked it -- ambient on outside -40c inside. I checked the edge of the slab foundation and that is always -20c from ambient --cheap skates did not insulate the edges or underneath it I suspect i watched them build it-- so i will not be convinced anything is better than pir for anything like same thickness,gives you more headroom for same ridge height + definately no air leakage + why use I beams when the sips take the load If you build rooms with no windows and they won,t overheat which is impractical unless its a storage space -usual velux,s will get maximum heat from sun as they point directly at it, so yes without blinds and good windows they will soak up the free heat from the sun --maybe the place to specify different glass in the windows,not usual low iron glass, and so stop alot of the passive solar heating. you seem to worry about overheating in summer --not a problem i have ever found in scotland in the country side same goes for air quality --its that clean that leave anything in the garden and its green in a couple of months ,soffits need power washing every year for same reason except on south facing the cabin filters in cars need changing once a year in most parts of england --here they last 2 to 3 years before they start looking sooty --same for engine air filters at least twice or three the mileage before they need changing ,if you are not in glasgow or edinburgh, they are as bad as most of england