scottishjohn

you already said that expansion and contraction of internals was classed as normal by SA -- 1" bend in lid is no small amount of expansion in percentage terms + neopryene rubber don,t squish very easy but where are the cases for the PCM units made? - again time will tell -I,ll just wait and hope i,m wrong It,s just 40 years in motor trade working with car makers you defintely get a very jaded view of things that makers say are "normal" or "acceptable" they used to call it "tombstone technology" in the aircraft industry at the beginning of jet liners -wings vibrating then work hardeneing and falling off. LOL

yes we hope its minor --but i question why this expansion +contraction of the internals has not been allowed for in the case construction that contains the active ingredients-- could this be the chineese involvment trying to slim down costs? anyway time will tell -how long is the warranty ?

so long as they are proactive and sort each problem at first attempt --then that fine with me --but don,t want to see same issues being talked about next year .It,s just good business on their part to do so

the worrying factor is that when asked --they have told customers --"its fine" instead of giving them a solution which you probably just described. time will tell as it always does with these things in service

that is really unacceptable --shows how much testing they have REALLY done on production units in service for this to happen--glad my decision to go this way is a year away at least . lest hope by then they have upgraded the units they have sold now as well as new units my guess the "bean counters "have got in on the production models and thinned down the casings both exterior and actual PCM cells --wonder how long they are going to last with continual stress like that before a crack and leakage occurs?--30,000 cycles ? time will tell. number of times that happens in car industry --design engineers do a good job ,then spec is changed in production ,that is the reason for nearly all recalls -"bean counters" changing spec to make things cheaper .BMW is a good example --all these fires from fuse boxs --who in their right mind would have main power to this box transmitted this way --a spade connector it was always going to get hot over time ,thats why alternators swopped from push on to bolt connections 20years ago as electric demand increased i know of no push on blade connector that is rate for 60-80amps . which is what the alternator could put up that wire if everything is on . the cable is fine its 80amp --but should have been a ring eye connector and bolt fitting-- vauxhall had simlar problems with car heaters catching fire --same reason --altering production wiring from that specified in design and range rover --air suspension- height correctors going out of sinc ,so suspension will go up and down like a yo-yo ,then sometimes be ok--cos wiring was dropped in spec and cheap non gold plated pins on connections under wheel arch where sensors are so resistance changes -,so ecu gets wrong data fxxxxg "bean counters just hope SA have more sense

yep they are a right pain to get in correctly --gets harder as you get older and eyesight gets worse and fingers get fatter.lol

simple answer is one end is wrong --don,t matter which you alter,so long as both are wired same way ,so if you got an end you can get at easier alter that one

Hi, dumfries&galloway 2 houses to build 1for me 1 for brother still navigating the D&G shark infested waters of the planning dept expect next year before anything"concrete" happens

NOV 2108 update i have been quoted between £500/£650 to get a pump+operator per day (8hours on site)which has to come best part of 100miles,so charge for mileage is in there as well which ever direction I hire it from. still deciding which way is best to build overall

no I don,t k now who you are or what you have done --but calling things crap is not helpful when you don,t even see the difference in the 2 systems your choice of course is yours as to whatsystem you want ,but don,t call something crap when definately is not Q+E is not MCLP- total different system anyway . maybe you should look at some videos before making sweeping statments and if some intinerant chippy or other trade swings on the plumbing it is not coming apart long runs is the point no joints anywhere but on each end. and it will look much prettier when used exposed if using the striaght lengths and very slim shrink fittings I understand £750 is unlikley on a single build hot+cold only --that is why i bought my tool s/h--but add the underfloor piping + manifolds,valves pumps ,controllers etc ,etc I also intend to have everything in a plant room with manifolds and stop taps for circuits I would never suggest any sort of plastic close to a boiler ,but as we ain,t using a boiler -but heat pump that ain,t a problem either. this forum as I understand it is to give info and choices and solutions to problems-which I did . joints behind walls --just don,t have them is the fall back postion by choice and if Ihave to have a90bend through bad planning i want one that is bulletproof

hardly that expensive -bought a s/h tool on e -bay with batteries +charger +3 dif size adpaptors £100--.but buy all your stuff from uponor for a house and they give you at tool if spend is £750 std fitting-- as in they screw onto taps etc and all plastic or even copper to plastic adpators ,but joint to piping of these fitting is same shrink fit .the other davantage is no restriction in flow rate you get full pipe diameter as pipe goes over fitting -this is not the same as those that use clamp rings -eveything is plastic . only thing that is crap is your attitude to a system you don,t know or have used cos you want to go cheap you want see strength of joint watch this https://uk.video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=mcafee&p=uponor%2Butube#id=4&vid=c86882d49856a9efcb0c9c5259c01c91&action=view -

that is exactly my concern with these push on fittings -how long will the seals last/#Ihave decided to use uponor q&e system which is basically a strech the pexA to fit unions ,with special tool then it shrinks back down -- no joints anyway where cannot get at them -pipe comes inrolls - heres avideo https://uk.video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=mcafee&p=uponor%2Butube#id=4&vid=c86882d49856a9efcb0c9c5259c01c91&action=view

looking at that machine its lot of money even for doing 2 houses --what were you quoted for them to do it ? -considering i asked local frim and they said it works out about same cost as buying foam panels +labour to fit them --doing it with your own labour+sheet insulation is way cheaper maybe a copromise get the small diy foam kits and spray all the nasty bits ,then insulate with foam or rock wool batts ? thinki migth be tempted to find how much the airtightness test equip is - to buy or rent -then use above method to get it airtight before dry wall etc

self levelling compound ?same as you use for tiling a floor

got it now--Exterior Wall Insulation ?

EWI not familar with that term

your style of wood frame with wood cladding i just do not think is a good idea where I am --far too much humidity all year round --even treated wood don,t last long#

this is assuming you haave the space to fit enough rock wool to get the "u" up to that required--which means very thick walls . you will have me building a cob house next .LOL

so basically we should build conrete bunker with insulation on the outside ?

will be looking into this some more --but still not convinced for same old reason -- If cold store uses pir when they got to keep using fuel to keep to -40c -then it has to be best insulation EG stoppage of the passge of heat from one layer to next at all times

can you copy any info on the machines -please

If using steel frame total wrap with the insulation is only solution ,thats what modern portal frame buildings do with the composite cladding panels attached to outside of structure,unless you are going for the INDUSTRIAL look then you would need to strap out whole interior the same to start with for a house

sorry it still don,t, make sense passage of hot or cold is the same . think you are forgetting is the foam is never seeing the direct heat from sun as the roof slates , have a 4" gap with the cross battoning and a self perpetuating air flow between tiles and sips from the soffits to the ridge .unless what you are saying is you are quite happy for heat to leak out of the roof , as for kingspan not meeting building code --maybe not if all you used was the sips alone ,but you know as well as i that you would batton inside for services then foam plaster board which will make it comply. are basically saying you are making a cold roof structure and only the last layer of pur is doing the work and the blown fibres are just to make a slow moving air space . I fully understand that air is a very poor conductor of heat . are you also saying that doing it this way there is little need for mvhr looks a lot more expensive + time consuming to build . I will bring this up with the architect --but if it twice as costly --i,ll open the windows in summer

It will still be less intrusive than 300-400mm roof trusses.which you then have to fill with insulation . hire of a telehandler for a day is hardly a big deal when whole roof goes on in few hours along with waterproof membrane all in same day . I agree if you are having full flat ceilings upstairs with an attic /junk space .then go with trusses ,still doubt it will be cheaper or simpler ,but where planning says 1.5 stories only then space is important

just to be simple look at kingspan tek house -video and you will see hows its done, uk.video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=mcafee&p=u-tube+and+kingspan+tek#id=3&vid=533dcaebfbac7e80df66273d603efb87&action=click