MrPotts

Vertical radiators are notoriously poor at space heating, maybe swapping the radiator for a conventional convecting radiator might heat the space better. Have you calculated the heat loss of the room?

Most people won’t replace a working boiler so the only time that anyone would vaguely consider a HP is during a breakdown but who wants to wait 3+ months for heating to be restored when a new boiler can be installed in days. Surely a better solution is to reduce the price of electricity (BUS grant can be used here) to be the same as gas and install electric heating either by boiler, in place where the old gas boiler was, or panel radiators. By 2030 all our electricity will be provided from renewables anyway, according to Ed, so the subsidy won’t be for long. 😀

I wouldn't accept all the ugly external pipework, as soon as the installers said how it was going to be done I would have called a halt to the work. Unfortunately my house would need a similar install hence I won't be getting a heat pump anytime soon.

I wonder if this can be done with a smart TRV during the initial calibration. Just place a thin spacer on the pin, attach the TRV, run through the calibration and then remove the spacer. I wonder if the TRV will then remember to stop just shy of closing completely.

At the moment my gas boiler is igniting 6 times an hour controlled by my Wiser controls so maximum burn time is 10 minutes. I have tried to adjust the ignition to 3 times an hour but the setting doesn't work despite the Wiser hub confirming it is set correctly in the configuration. I have an open support ticket with wiser on this.

How close are you to the local weather station where the control gets its information from? The further away you are the least accurate the information will be. Better than nothing but not as good as having an outside thermostat on the wall of your house.

Try both and see what works best. OT relies on interior temps reported by an indoors thermostat and WC relies on exterior temps and an thermostat outdoors.

From what I read on various forums you have 3 choices, pay an exorbitant price for an MCS install, and cost the tax payer £7.5k, but likely get a decent install or pay a local non MCS half the MCS price and risk getting a poor install (but save the taxpayer money) or manage the install yourself and buy the kit and labour separately but you have the responsibility. Not great choices are they.

You use an app which tells you what setting to use based on the size and type of radiator.

Isn’t the idea of an auto balancing valve to be setup initially based on the required flow rate and when this changes, due to other TRV’s closing, it automatically adjusts to try and maintain the flow rate.

I think you mean valves that are affected by system pressure changes.

If the radiators were getting hot before then leave their LS alone and adjust the new radiator LS only.

With the government giving upto £7.5k in the BUS grant most ASHP installations should be free to the homeowner.

It’s the inflated installation charges that I have issue with and now, from your quote, it looks like misc sundries are inflated too. It’s the BUS grant that is at fault IMO, is this meant to be all profit?

Aren’t wood burners now frowned upon due to the particulates being higher than vehicle traffic?

PV cheap? I have had a quote for 14 panels and a 10kWh battery for a little over £14k, that’s not cheap to me. If I can get this cheaper please point me towards the right direction. 😀

If you need 200l then make sure you are actually getting 200l as this is often quoted as the size including the heating coil.

I have used a very simple way of balancing my radiators. All lockshields fully open, start heating and check all radiators get hot at roughly the same time, if you have some rads hot and others warm/cold then turn down the hot rads very slightly. Repeat until all rads get hot. I was lucky, all my rads get hot virtually at once with all the lockshields virtually fully open.

Can you call the installers back and get them to install the HP correctly? They shouldn’t have left the condense to drain onto a walkway.

Is the boiler with the poor fitting flue in use? Hopefully not, it should be shut down as it is dangerous.

I dont think the micro switch operates when the manual is moved to MAN, it just opens the valve.

How can you get a return temp that’s higher than the flow? Unless the heat in the HW cylinder is being sucked out by the boiler flow. My return temps are normally about 10c lower than flow when heating the HW cylinder and about 20c when space heating.

OK, i think its time to get someone in that can investigate how the boiler has been wired.

Have you made all the connections to the boiler as per attached?

What’s the GC number of your boiler? Edit found it on post 1