MrPotts

If the link is still in place I think the boiler will think there’s is a permanent demand for CH hence why it stays on until you turn the boiler off.

It looks like the link is providing a permanent live to terminal 1 on connector X1 which looks like it is the CH demand hence the boiler runs continually.

So the connection has been made within the boiler to connector X1 position 1 and the link removed? This is going by what the boiler install manual says.

Sorry but I am confused now. You don't have the CH demand connected to the boiler so presumably CH isn't working? Maybe I missed something, again!

Sorry, I missed the bit where you said you had the browns together, yes that would also work.

Use the switched live orange from the NC valve to apply power to the NO valves live connection. Then when there is a call for HW the NC HW valve will apply live to the NO CH valve thus closing it.

If you watch through the video he describes how to convert an s plan to PDHW with a NO valve.

Good video here……..

In an arrangement where you have NC and NO valves the NC HW valve controls the NO CH valve. You just connect the orange of the NC valve to the brown of the NO valve.

We have the technologies but are being ripped off with the cost! Not many people have £20k to install PV and a heat pump.

Ignore me! Lock shield valves don’t always have direction of flow on them.

Yes check the valve body on the opposite end to the TRV. I haven't seen valves without a direction of flow arrow but as yours don't have one then who knows which way around they are meant to be installed.

Its not just the TRV body, you should also check that the arrows on the lockshield valves are also either bi-directional or if a single arrow then it is pointing in the direction of flow.

Are the arrows pointing in the direction of flow ( lockshield and TRV body)?

You need a proper heat loss survey to be sure of getting the correct size heat pump. In my case the "protons for breakfast" website states my home has 4kw heat loss based on my annual gas usage but using the Heatpunk website I have calculated the heat loss to be a little over 7.5kw, a big difference!

Maybe WC wasn't working was because you were also using Wiser TRV's which were screwing up WC.

You're using WC so why are you also using individual room stats (Wiser TRV's). I think you would be better using manual TRV's and just limiting the temps for each room as required. I think the Wiser system may be in conflict with the boiler and WC.

I thought you still had the Wiser TRV's. I have been slowly removing my Wiser TRV's as I just couldn't have the Wiser system turning on the boiler for one radiator, what a waste of gas and boiler efficiency. Out of 13 radiators I now only have 3 Wiser TRV's, all the other radiators are using manual TRV's and the 3 bathroom radiators have no TRV's. The Wiser TRV's I still have installed are 2 in the lounge (controlled by a Wiser room stat) and 1 in the hall. This has resulted in more radiators heating up when the boiler fires and much better efficiency.

Are you now using manual TRV’s on your radiators or do you still have the Wiser kit installed?

Or replace the CH MV with a NO MV and rewire correctly so that the DHW MV closes the CH MV when it is energised.

If this is an Splan then it needs the pipework reconfiguring and the 2 port motorised valves replacing with a single motorised diverter valve.

You just lost a quid! They are both normally closed valves. EPH don't make a NO motorised valve, Honeywell do however the Honeywell NO motorised valve doesn't have a lever and the power cable exits the motor body at the opposite end to where the lever would have been on a Honeywell NC motorised valve.

From what i have read some profits appear to be excessive in relation to the work actually done.

I have a Greenstar 24i system boiler. I have the instruction manual for the diverter kit and see the part you are referring too.

Just done some more research and I can buy the diverter kit for my boiler for under £100. If I fit it myself then that is not too bad a cost. The kit needs a return from the HW cylinder but I think I can probably get around that requirement by teeing off the return pipe at the boiler.