-rick-
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Everything posted by -rick-
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Steel Single Spine Staircase worries
-rick- replied to crispy_wafer's topic in General Structural Issues
Text based communication makes it harder to get intent across. In this case I'd say your post did not land well. Having the first response to a 'help i may be in a sticky situation' post be 'well if you'd had made different decisions 2-3 years ago you wouldn't be in this sticky situaion' is particularly unhelpful. -
Changeover switches reccomendations (and what do the regs say)
-rick- replied to jimseng's topic in Photovoltaics (PV)
It's related to gaps surrounding the module. The regs tightened up the rules around what you can fit in a domestic CU and the effect is that most sparks won't want to fit anything that isn't certified by the manufacturer as compatible/suitable for use with that specific CU. -
Changeover switches reccomendations (and what do the regs say)
-rick- replied to jimseng's topic in Photovoltaics (PV)
Then you'd need to either use a matching brand/spec transfer switch that's certified for the same CU or have a sparky that's willing the do the risk assessment and put his/her name to the safety of the third party switch. I'd guess a separate enclosure would be easier. Once you do that, there are multiple options of pre-packaged solutions available. More expensive sure, but all-in-one and likely easy to get the sparky comfortable with. https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/1780374-63a-2p-surface-mounting-3-position-changeover-switch-ip65 -
How are we heating this, plus hot water.
-rick- replied to Russell griffiths's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Was thinking far more of guests arriving and wanting to jump in the shower. Agree A2A is fine if the room is cold/hot on arrival. -
There are plenty of integrated combi microwaves that don't come with a plug/need a 16A circuit. Just seems a bit odd to need the circuit for a much lower draw pure microwave, but not need it for a high draw integrated washer dryer or similar. I wonder if it's because you work in a lot of higher end homes where the microwave is usually an oven as well and so it's become standard practice amongst your sparks to do that rather than regs?
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😆 Edition (of the regs). I'm curious of the reason too. Built in microwaves are more likely to be combination units (with oven as well) and microwaves are also relatively inefficient so they consume a lot more than the output power rating might suggest. But still, if it's not a combi then its continuous draw shouldn't be much different than a powerful kettle. (I can't think of a use case for a microwave that demands full power for more than a few minutes).
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How are we heating this, plus hot water.
-rick- replied to Russell griffiths's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
You obviously need a local override. Less smart options exist (keycard switch that only provides power when the room is occupied, or 24hr timers that need activating on first occupation but both of these may lead to no hot water on first occupation). Depends on occupancy. If you manage to be near fully booked then sure. If it's intermittent then could be quite expensive for uninsulated huts. -
How are we heating this, plus hot water.
-rick- replied to Russell griffiths's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Agree with all the above. A2A + immersion. But also, make sure you put in some easy way to only have the heating active when let (but also that the cabin is warm/hot water available when the next customer arrives). Maybe the whole cabin supplied through a contactor that has some smart controller on it then sync that controller up to your bookings system. (Sounds complicated but probably not if you use something like https://ifttt.com/) -
We do have rules about firing workers to replace them with cheaper ones. Things like TUPE. But our current breed of politicians tend to focus on the wrong things and AI regulation has been low on their list. Especially since Trump got elected as they seem particularly wary of doing anything that might upset him and the tech industry makes sure he knows about anything they don't like coming from us.
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MacOS will use less than 4GB IIRC. But decent LLMs are very memory hungry so I think @Pocster was more focussed on the RAM needed by the LLM not the OS. The smallest 'useful' models might be 16GB and then you need a ton more for context windows + LV cache. These models will still be far behind anything from the main commercial providers. More memory = better model + more context.
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I'm not an electrician but something I've seen elsewhere is to not install any rings. Make them all radials. Might be a bit more expensive in wiring (4mm vs 2.5mm) or from having 2x20A radials vs 1x32A ring but makes testing and future changes simple.
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When did this come in? In my flat the integrated microwave is fed via a fused isolater off the 32A ring. Does the fused isolater count as a dedicated circuit in this case? * The microwave has a normal 13A plug on it
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Is it possible the fitting has the two bulb sockets wired in series? ie, it used 2 bulbs rated at 40W but ran them much below that? An LED bulb running at half it's rated voltage will be extremely dim.
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Does look that way. New Deepseek one for example, and it's been touted has having huge optimizations for reducing memory usage. It might be much better at storing context but if the model is so huge in the first place it's not easy to run at home. Google seems to have done well with Gemma, but of course that is a lot cut down from the leading models and they aren't releasing those. Doubt any western firm will for 'safety' reasons. So far the Chinese govt doesn't seem to care about that so long as their models spout Chinese propoganda at the relevant moments.
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Sure, I just thought it was interesting to highlight.
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https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2026/05/apple-may-take-several-months-to-catch-up-to-mac-mini-and-studio-demand/ Interestingly it mentions TSMC being a bottleneck. TSMC doesn't make RAM.
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Neighbours want to scaffold in my courtyard
-rick- replied to DannyT's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
In that case, all guns blazing! -
Neighbours want to scaffold in my courtyard
-rick- replied to DannyT's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
This is a very formal letter. Is this how you want to start the conversation? I don't know what contact you've had with the neighbour so far but it maybe better to start off in a more friendly/less formal manner. Along the lines of offering open communication lines and being reasonable but that there are some formalities needed before can move forward. Rather than purely starting with the formalities. If you already know your neighbour to be difficult then fine start with the formalities, but if your only interaction is with the builder, then who knows, could be your neighbour is just not particularly interested in the details and has found a builder who's told them not to worry, let me deal with it all. -
Neighbours want to scaffold in my courtyard
-rick- replied to DannyT's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Not a lawyer, but I think personally I would ask them to specify what they want to do first. Don't lead with the offer, lead with saying you are willing to be reasonable but need to hear their plans (in detail, in writing). Be specific about what you want to hear. -
Neighbours want to scaffold in my courtyard
-rick- replied to DannyT's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Even if on good terms I think I would still want something in writing from them. -
Neighbours want to scaffold in my courtyard
-rick- replied to DannyT's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
So far the neighbours builder is. Not sure we have established whether the neighbour is. Maybe the neighbour just doesn't know better and the builder has promised to deal with everything. Still it's not a good start so be careful but still might be worth talking to the neighbour to try and keep everything on good terms (worth calling insurance lawyers first though I'd guess). -
Explain these comments on a Gary Does Solar video?
-rick- replied to Alan Ambrose's topic in Photovoltaics (PV)
Also, just thinking about the situation you'd be in if the voltage was 207V. It would mean that the local substation is under very heavy load from a local consumer and near tripping off. Therefore, the extra current produced by your inverter at that voltage might be the thing that prevents the grid from tripping. An argument may be that the current limit protects the cables, but I would guess that it's the substation transformer that is the limiting factor in almost all locations. In fact the areas where you may see voltage dipping to near 207 are likely all rural with pole transformers and long lines. Likely meaning that a generator closer to the consumer may reduce the voltage drop in the lines and be even more beneficial. -
Explain these comments on a Gary Does Solar video?
-rick- replied to Alan Ambrose's topic in Photovoltaics (PV)
Would expect you to use the nominal voltage for these calculations. ie, 240V. Up to the network to be designed for the variance. -
Explain these comments on a Gary Does Solar video?
-rick- replied to Alan Ambrose's topic in Photovoltaics (PV)
100% though knowing this country the 'smart' solution requiring 24/7 internet connectivity is what will get proposed at some point. -
Explain these comments on a Gary Does Solar video?
-rick- replied to Alan Ambrose's topic in Photovoltaics (PV)
This is exactly what's being proposed by the grid (see the link I posted earlier). Reducing the minimum acceptable voltage to 207V. Modern equipment shouldn't really care about the voltage being that low (the minimum voltage in Europe is 207V and almost all electronics we have bought in the last 30 years have been designed to work in that market). Link suggests a 4% reduction in resistance heating output, slightly dimmer lights. Most tricky issues being non-inverter driven motors and UPSes with to high a brown-out setting (likely can be adjusted).
