jack

I fixed it. You can only edit posts for 30 mins after paying. After that, you can report your own post and ask the mods to edit.

Yes, we've required a £100 deposit (roughly the cost of the unit, I believe) for two or three years now. Basedon feedback from users, I've been thinking about increasing the hire price a little to cover the cost of getting/keeping it calibrated.

These documents are from the anemometer hire thread that you can't see yet due to not having enough posts: NHBC MVHR Commissioning.pdf Passivhaus MVHR Commissioning Requirements V121.pdf domestic_ventilation_compliance_guide_2010_edition.pdf Vent_Calcs(1).xls MVHR_Sizing(1).xlsx That thread also includes the following additional comments that might be of interest: To calculate the flow from speed, multiply the m/s by the area of the anemometer vane opening and then 3600 to m3/hr To calculate the area of the anemometer vane opening use the formula A = π r2, r being 1/2 of the diameter. There are calculators online where you can enter the radius or diameter and it does the calculation for you. Alternatively, spend a few minutes working out a small range of m3/hr values using the vane opening measurement so you have a ready reckoner to check. As well as a cone, you ideally need a flow straightening section, although this is less important with a vane-type anemometer. With a vane type unit, you ideally need to ensure that most of the airflow goes through the vanes, as long as that doesn't cause too much of an obstruction. For domestic scale measurement a 100mm diameter measurement section is usually OK - it's a reasonable compromise between getting the flow velocity up to a measurable level whilst not impeding the flow enough to significantly change it. Here's a photo of the unit I made up with a 100mm length of duct: This shows the Testo being used, and the reading is in m/s. To convert this to l/s, then take the internal cross sectional area of the measurement point (in this case it happens to be 0.007354m², allowing for the bit blocked by the sensor probe), and use this formula: Flow rate (l/s) = flow velocity (m/s) x 0.007354m² x 1000

It's working - see the rest of the sentence with the link: Having lost two hired anemometers to members who disappeared, we won't hire out the remaining one without at least some evidence of engagement on BuildHub.

Unfortunately, if they aren't selling, the price is probably too high. FB marketplace is often a good way of getting a sale if you price well.

Drawers all the way. The one issue is that they massively increase costs compared to cupboards.

We did just this with a tired old 1950s bungalow in 2015. It's almost certainly the right decision - far fewer compromises on both design and construction, plus you derisk the job considerably. You'll be amazed how quickly you pick things up. Good luck!

Lovely looking project. How awesome to have had so much involvement, too!

Ah yes, the MVHR sub-forum. I should never do anything on the mobile.

Welcome! Post any questions or concerns over in the ASHP sub-forum and I'm sure you'll get the help you need.

Welcome to BuildHub. I've moved your question to the ASHP sub-forum where it's more likely to receive more attention. If you want specific help, you need to be specific. No-one knows whether they have the same problem as you if you don't tell us what it is!

Fundamentally, planning departments are reactive. We'd nearly finished our build before it sunk in that the planning department has no practical interaction with the build after planning permission has been granted, unless someone complains. I can't imagine anyone complaining about removal of protective fencing, and even if they did, what could the council do? The general cure for a breach is to correct it (e.g., "You need to plant and maintain a hedge along boundary A"), but since the protective fencing has been removed, there's no longer any way to correct the breach. They're hardly going to make you reinstate it so you can ask them to approve its removal! We had a similar condition on the extensive fencing protecting the trees around our house. I only realised that when re-reading our planning approval about three years after we took the fencing down! We were also supposed to have regular inspections by the arboriculturalist, but decided against it. We felt the worst that could happen had they found out was that they would require us to start doing it. We figured we might have saved the cost of several visits by then.

Good luck!

If I understand what you're trying to do: in the new post, place the cursor where you want to add a quote, then go to the post of interest and click the "Quote" button. If you have to go to a different page in the thread to find the post you want to quote, it might place the quote at the end of your current post, but you can just drag and drop it - see the top left corner of the quoted block while hovering over it - to where you want it in the new post (unless you're on a mobile, in which I case I can't help you because I've never managed to this working on my phone!)

Welcome! Best bet for searching is Google your query and add the word "buildhub".

Could be wrong, but I think the base model Ring doorbells are still wireless only, and can't be connected via ethernet. If I had the ability to route a wire from a socket to the rear of the doorbell, I'd use something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ZAYMDO-Doorbell-Transformer-Accessories-Compatible-10m/dp/B0B3S1QNVT In my case, I had a CAT6 cable to the doorbell position from our plant room. I got tired of replacing the battery and ended up wiring something like the above to a pair within the CAT6 cable in the plant room. Been working fine for at least three years now.

Hi @Daveywest, welcome to BuildHub. Not everyone reads the Introduce Yourself sub-forum, so I've moved your post to a forum that's more likely to get you an answer to your question. That's a nice-looking house, incidentally!

Yes. The ASHP is expecting an on/off signal from a switch within a thermostat, which can be provided by the ASHP manufacturer or anyone else. In my system, the thermostat switch is replaced with a Loxone relay, and the temperature sensing part of the thermostat is replaced with temperature sensors connected to Loxone. If I had only a single temperature sensor and programmed Loxone to provide only simple on/off controls based on whether the sensed temperature was above or below a temperature set point, Loxone would act exactly like a simple mechanical thermostat (albeit with less hysteresis). Sort of. I always planned to use Loxone, so it was always my plan to control the ASHP via Loxone. My ASHP came with a controller (for adjusting settings), but not a thermostat. I wouldn't say I'm transferring data to the pump. All the pump sees is the switched signal telling it to heat or not heat the house. It doesn't know the house temperature or anything else about what's caused Loxone to change the relay state. I still use the controller in my setup, for things like settings and the timer function. Loxone only takes care of the decision about when to heat. I could in theory replace the controller with a modbus interface that would allow me to properly control the ASHP via Loxone. That would give me some useful extra flexibility, such as: Changing the heating curve depending on, e.g., electricity pricing and predicted exterior temperatures. Controlling hot water heating with more intelligence. For example, at the moment, I rely on the ASHP's controller to set periods for heating and hot water. The programming is extremely limited and it's a massive pain to change. With modbus, I could take complete control and do smart stuff like: Keep more hot water on standby when there are more people in the house Ensure that the ASHP doesn't start heating the hot water tank late in the evening, especially before the cheap rate kicks in, and instead waits until late in the cheap period to start, thereby ensuring maximum hot water is available first thing in the morning. The modbus extension is several hundred quid though, and I'm not convinced it's plug and play. There are ways around some of these limitations. For example, I've thought about having a relay switch between the tank temperature sensor and a fixed value resistor to fool the ASHP into thinking the tank is cooler or hotter than it actually is. I could then better control when the ASHP starts a hot water heating cycle. I might get around to it eventually, but it's some way down the to-do list. Despite the simplicity of the control system it keeps the ground floor of the house at a pretty constant temperature. This is the temperature of the slab under the kitchen island over the last three weeks: The highest temperature is 22.1 °C and the lowest is 20.3 °C. The temperature upstairs (where there's no heating except for short period each morning in the bathrooms) is lower and does vary more with the external temperature. It varied between 17.3 °C and 18.8 °C over the same period.

Just popped in to read this blog post and found Joe90 posting replies in early January. He'll be missed. My name on eBuild was "Not Nick Clegg". I think there was a challenge when you signed up, asking a question to which the answer was "Nick Clegg". The next question asked what user name you wanted. Couldn't think of anything so I just wrote the opposite of the answer to the previous question!

Welcome to BuildHub. I've moved your post to a sub-forum where it's likely to get more attention given the subject matter. Good luck.

Welcome Vince. I've moved your post to a sub-forum where it's likely to get more attention given the topic. I don't know much about what you're planning to do, but a photo will help others who might be able to help. Failing that, a quick sketch showing rough dimensions and what the wall is made of will do. Good luck.

Awesome stuff. He was really giving it the beans in the video. Hope they paid you for the rear tyre wear!

Lotus Carlton. Now that's an interesting car. Is that at a hillclimb, rally, or something else?

I've moved the post to this sub-forum since it doesn't fall squarely within one of the heating types. Re: batteries, while it helps to have solar, a lot of people install them without. The right tariff can make them a very viable option. Take a look over on the relevant sub-forum for some ideas about what people are doing with batteries. You can consider them completely separate to heating.

The document I referred to shows your name and the site address. If you're happy with that, no worries.