Adam2

For those that question the accredited installer piece - this is not necessarily meaning MCS and does not mean an excessive cost. I had a price from a Cool Energy accredited installer who was also MCS at ballpark 1.8K for install of UVC/Buffer/ASHP and various connections into the rest of the system on a new build. This including the MCS paperwork. As it happened I think the installer didn't want to travel my way in March as probably had plenty of more local work with the RHI scheme ending so I ended up using my own plumber which may have saved a bit but then I paid for an inspection which equaled things out. Total about 6K parts and call it 2K install so ~7K all in and RHI payments (fingers crossed) to cover that. I'd say overall I'm a happy customer - originally I was looking at the more common well known brands and the pricing was pretty high in comparison. Support was very responsive and always very positive attitude from them so I'd recommend - BUT mine has only been running the past few weeks so not a long term endorsement or anything. With many things I'm happy to buy from China/wherever but something you can't send back (140kgs ASHP) I'd rather get locally just in case 🙂

Can I ask where you're sourcing your posts, have a v similar idea for divider by dining area

Is there not benefit in insulating hot pipes to reduce heat loss in transit? Or is that so minimal to not make much difference either way?

Hi will msg you

pedestals - need to watch tile size and thickness. Largest I could see were 600x600 x 20 thick to use on pedestals - @Russdl your look bigger which is nice:-) concrete base - we found the void filler (Cemex but I guess they all do it) was good to work with in filling err voids but has a C20 rating I think so plenty for paving and was quite cost effective if you don't need a pump to get it where you need it. Think maybe of drainage under the raised deck if using concrete - maybe a few holes or do it to a slight fall?

I just had a CoolEnergy system installed (ASHP/UVC/Buffer). They did an inspection to sign off the MCS part. Was quite economical compared to the figures you're quoting. I know you don't need it all but they sell just the ASHP also.

Mine comes with this https://coolenergyshop.com/collections/installation-accessories/products/thermox-dtx-25l-inhibited-glycol-ce-tmdtx25 may have better properties re heat transfer + viscosity compared to other options?

great thanks - will crack on with that then an report back if issues

Yes could do - we've a 300L UVC and ASHP so looking to optimise efficiency when just the 2 or 3 of us here which is most of the time. We can always try that and up the storage temp if we experience issues with volume. Though question remains really as 50 / 52 would still be below the range stated on the instructions which I guess they have there for a reason so just curious what the issue is with lower temp even at 50. Is it the mixing isn't so accurate or something? Maybe we could have a simple life - store at 40 degrees and just have a hot pipe to each shower - save pipes and valve costs then 🙂 <- only a joke

In our old place we used to have a Mira digital shower - very pleased with it as worked well and the remote control thing you can put on a shelf so keeps the wall fixtures to a minimum. In our new place we'd like the same but I noticed the instructions mention hot water temp range 55-65 instructions What would likely happen if the hot is below this say 45? I can't see why it would be a problem as with a "regular" system wit the hot water stored at say 60 at times it would get below 55 and I'm sure the shower will still work. We'd like to store our hot water at 45/50 degrees range. Appreciate any experience you may have on this or recommendations for other similar digital shower mixers if any have a better stated hot water inlet tolerance

low plate will likely be behind the lid when up which means lid is down to flush. personally I prefer that 🙂 but I may be in the minority (even in my house!)

We put ply on our walls and painted. Floor we just tiled as realised needed doing quite early in the overall plan as has uvc etc to be installed. Ceiling is not done yet but I expect plasterboard and painted.

We're doing 1st fix in the garage and planning for the EV charger. If I bought one of these QubEV can any electrician fit it or do you need some special certificates? This seems so cheap and doing this now makes sense. Payback on a smart one on lower cost electricity (like Intelligent Octopus) doesn't seem worthwhile

Thanks @AliMcLeod yes we have their touch ones. I did actually use their retractive switch in my testing and they were functionally fine but do not have the look we're going for. the search continues....

This looks like the best option so far but not looked that hard yet

The car fan is really effective at de-pressurising the house so the fact that we had some known issues eg ply in doorways didn't really matter as for sure there was air coming in from there but with the fan strength you can still detect other air leaks. Did cover WC waste pipes and obvious holes but we didn't spend too much time on that. Construction is ICF so we focussed on the risk areas of window/sliding doors and roof to wall junctions. Holding a burning stick we watched the smoke - if the smoke was disturbed then we looked for the source and taped it. Takes a while to move slowly around all areas but 2 people 4 hours and pretty thoroughly done. Some areas will need a bit more time to fix and will deal with them next week - the window installers put tape in all required placed but in a few areas they taped onto dusty blocks which is useless of course so we'll remove, prime and re-tape. The roof junction seemed OK - maybe some small air leaks so will see how best to deal with that - probably some plastic fixed with a batten along the wall in ceiling void and then a batten pinning this onto a joist. Worst areas we could find were a few window corners that weren't taped very well. We don't have external render on yet or plasterboard inside so things should only improve from here on!

Combination, back of hand and Jos sticks. Not the smoke matches as I of course left them at home but they only burn for 20 secs a time so not that useful probably. House now smells of sandalwood

Tadaaa worked very well. Just used jump leads and an old but of cable with a couple of spades on the end. Found some small leaks and very helpfully found one of our huge sliding doors was ok at the bottom but not the top along the closing edge so the door may not be fitted straight. So worthwhile.

Yes we're considering this - will have a built in fridge in the kitchen but have an upright freezer and separate plumbed in ice maker in the pantry. Figured that it's a better compromise than trying (& failing) to get a built in that does ice. Probably also cheaper

The electrician also suggested putting higher so will decide on each zone where is best. Prefer not to have the controller on the wall and the temp probe low so less obvious unless it is suitably discreetly positioned

Thanks - CoolEnergy inverter ASHP. The UFH kit is from Wunda the basic touchscreen wall units. They have a separate input connector for the remote temp sensor and you can use this remote sensor or the internal one or both (then the remote is a safety one for wood floors I guess). Model W91.713 https://www.wundatrade.co.uk/shop/home/quick-shop/wundatherm-quick-shop/controls-quickshop/touchscreen-thermostat/ ASHP https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2612/5402/files/CE-iVT18.pdf?v=1644246601

any ideas appreciated - apart from buy a different ashp 🙂

Yes flexy - see the vids but if done carefully should be fine, fingers crossed. The fitter said that on 1 job they were cutting them and the tiles just cracked - manufacturer saw a video they made and sent replacements no bother. But that was an exception and they are completely happy to be doing more of them. If they were a pain to work with I think they would have steered me away from them.

Found a tiler that has installed this inside and outside in 3mm thickness - very pleased with it and highly recommends it. So with that I guess I'll get my pricing and hopefully get this going. Will update in case anyone else takes a shine to 3m tiles ?

Will depend on plans for duct serial or radial. If using smaller diameter semi-flex duct on a radial plan (seems pretty common) - put your distribution boxes somewhere central to minimise the lengths of smaller duct running to the outlets/inlets. Use rubber or silicone connections on the runs to the distribution boxes (help with angles + reduces noise to some degree) + the dedicated silencer sections.