Adam2

Probably not going to install PV now but may in future so thinking to install cables from flat roof to meter room now. What spec cable sighs I install? Will not be a huge setup.

Really interesting to read this thread as we have ICF (Nudura) with 200mm waterproof concrete. BASF products used around the slab, outside of below ground walls and in the concrete. probably about 6-7K of product. Fairly efficient to apply. As stated, temp for applying to ICF was an issue but use a heat gun and a big tank of propane and you get a 1st class adhesion. A lot will depend on ground conditions - ours are very good - free draining sand. We had BASF out to inspect each area and they were very helpful with guidance/training as needed. As the wall junction with slab we used waterbar (on a raised concrete upstand in middle of the wall) and on the exterior before installing the membrane we used some leftover ICF cut into fillets to try and limit water build up at this weak area. also of course had land drain around the top edge of the slab on each floor. It's rained a lot and no signs yet (fingers crossed!) of water ingress and we've had some decent rain. I guess our worst case scenario is a retrospective internal cavity which of course would be highly disruptive but at the moment this does seem unlikely. Best of luck with whatever route you go and if you need BASF info feel free to message.

I understand one of the roles of the grout under columns is to ensure good support hence the non shrink nature of the grout. I also did research sent SE product spec etc. Sika product above easy to get and easy to use but can be tricky to pour in depending on your site etc. We had some horizontal beams which were a bit awkward.

Will have a think about that - much shorter route straight up for AC pipes. I know zero about AC pipes - if copper then is it feasible/sensible to pre-install pipes and cap them off at each end at this stage to make life easier? or have a de-mountable u bend so the pipe bending can happen later on? Was thinking to have the pipe from a wall cavity behind a dressing room cupboard go straight up through the roof.

Am about to finish the flat roof!!! Need a few holes: 1) 1 x svp 2) 1 (or more) for: aerial cable, future solar panel cable, possible future air con pipe/cable My question is - would a 100mm one like below be sufficient for item 2? I was thinking to put a large block of PIR into each end to minimise air leaks - not sure how perfect that can be though. Is there a better/simpler way to do this?

Ahh OK - in general I'll aim to have them neat the led ceiling coffer lights or at least somewhere out of sunlight/drafts etc but will stick a protective thing over it if in doubt

Thanks @Dan F planning to keep HA separate really so wanting the air temp sensors only to control the UFH. It'll be lowish temp so no risk (AFAIK) of excess heat in floor if air temp sensor used. If I use for cooling in the UFH I would have thought the lowest temp we'd run in there would be ~15 degrees to avoid condensation issues as much as we can. My question really is if the Wunda floor probes can be used in the air - the chap I'm dealing with couldn't say. Not sure why they wouldn't be OK but would be great to know

What kind of in wall temp sensors are people using/rexommending? Wunda provide floor temp probes but I was planning to put in the wall behind plasterboard but concerned will be slow to respond.

Anyone know if a Uponor staple gun work with other staples eg Wunda supplied ones or say these also?

Yes I think I was at one time aiming for that - may be best to stick with this. The auto-balancing actuators are in the plan ? I have noticed one improvement - the lower ground (with plant room + utility), I can probably distribute the the congestion in the hallway to reduce Loop 2-2 and instead use that loop in the WC so removing loop 2-1

Wunda have done my plan and I made a couple of small changes but they didn't respond to my question about handling solar gain. Each floor has an area facing S/W with a 6m opening which I expect will mean that the part of the floor closest to the glazing will heat up through the solar gain - I figured that if I had the loops running across the room (90 degrees to current plan) then these loops would turn off earlier so saving energy rather than as they are now which will continue to add heat into the solar heated area. Maybe this is such a small impact I shouldn't waste time on it - appreciate your thoughts on that or any other observations. Pipes are 150 centres, heating by ASHP, concrete floors and ICF wall construction 05054 Tom PIPE LAYOUT - A1.pdf

The specific application here is an ICF house with 200mm concrete structure and wanting to ensure the wall to roof junction is effectively dealt with from an air-tightness perspective. Different details will be needed in different places - it's a flat roof - well flat + tapered insulation and one large mono-pitch area. I was just asking due to possibly taping a vcl to the walls and brining that up to the inside of the roof structure in some places - didn't want to risk the tape and EPS separating due to incompatibilities BUT if we do this we'll put a batten across the vcl holding it to the wall instead of tape as this will have a more reliable long term fixing anyway. Thanks for the education on US perms, will be sure to pass that on to my wife ?

I think we should do a test and use some of our 28mm pipe and connect into the meter and see what we get at the plant room and also at the top floor so we make the best plans we can (using a couple of outlets so we can see dynamic pressure)

Thanks @Conor - the triton paint on we've used in a similar way but will see where else we can make use of that - seems to go a long way so not bad value. The render beads sound interesting will take a look for those as well

Thanks but sorry I wasn't maybe clear enough - this is being considered for application direct to EPS (as in ICF walls). Having read some more on the topic I may try and avoid tape on the EPS and use battens to secure a folded edge of a dpm type plastic sheet against the EPS - with tape over the screws. Am looking to make sure my wall to roof detail is as good as it can be - the walls of course are fine and I'll be all over the window fitters checking use of tapes etc but we're doing the roof now and there's a bunch of joists that will need some care to get right.

Any thoughts if I need a special tape that will work well with EPS - as in will stick and will not breakdown due to incompatibilities?

Well the latest is that I can get a 6bar uvc from cylinders 2go not a huge increase in price for the potential benefit

I'll run the numbers again to look at payback based on what we could likely utilise - with ASHP and an EV this may be OK but I guess the EV will be at work much of the time during the day in the week so would rely on other things using the sun's energy - can of course put into UVC. Will see what a box of bits for solar will cost ? For now though will have cables and roof penetration for this at least in our plans and a UVC with a suitable coil so can add in later. More pressing dramas now like a plumbing co that will agree to have a ashp system with cooling of the slab!!! Apparently Panasonic and Mitsubishi do not "warrant the process" whatever that means as their units would just be chucking out cold water like they are supposed to do and the rest is someone else's responsibility!!!! argghhh May have to just get a regular plumber to follow my instructions and not have them responsible for the overall system performance

Thanks @Stones for sharing your setup & experience with that - encouraging! It's Re Solar - we're planning to cable for PV as we have a flat roof area which could accommodate this but given the long time for a return on investment we'll defer the installation. If electricity keeps going up and panels come down it may make sense in a couple of years as we do have an electric car and ASHP so should be able to utilise a lot of what we would generate. Am chatting with a plumber at the mo that is quite pro solar thermal but I need to see some costs and decide if this has any real benefit/return on the investment. Would prefer simplicity vs saving £100 a year for 20 years to get payback!

What duct coolers have you found that work well with ashp? I was thinking of these and have in my bpc quote but wasn't really sure if would help that much

If still looking I can provide details of mine. The main guy was not easiest to contact or get along with but the day to day chap is excellent. I'm building Nudura on a bit of a complex site so a lot of SE involvement.

I understand the usual config is having a PRV before the UVC to take mains down to 3 or 3.5 bar. My UVC will be 2 floors below main bathrooms so will lose about 10m of head by the time hot water comes out of the shower so I was wondering if it is possible to have higher pressure UVCs (googled but no joy) say 5 bar with a PRV installed on the UVC output for local h/w at 3 bar and a separate output to the top floor with a PRV up there at 3 bar to maximise the shower experience ? I'll get around to actually measuring the mains soon enough and find I only have 2 bar probably ?

Thanks this is incredibly useful But it does worry me ? as implies 2 x 10 min showers at 12L/min would be roughly max we could get from a 400L UVC at 48 degrees. I guess we would probably use a bit below 40 - though my wife for some reason likes hot water torture! With an ASHP you wouldn't be getting much replenishment either in that scenario. I imagine (can check COP) that it make sense to heat the ASHP to say 55 in the morning (maybe using E7 or E10) to compensate if we find we're running short sometimes..

I'd expect the further apart they are over the min then the more pipe you'll need and more insulation on the pipe. Not sure if there is any benefit unless you have specific local conditions that mean >1.5m is necessary as surely if they state 1.5m then that is sufficient to work as designed for most situations. Mine will be 1.5m as this is all I can accommodate - will use a hooded vent grill that I can use to direct flow direction a bit.

Was planning on Cemfloor which specifies min 25mm cover on pipes so assuming 16mm pipes I have 34mm cover but yes will be ensuring the contractor creates doorway joints. Though my question was really about the need for perimeter insulation given that the walls are EPS