marshian

When I was doing my suspended ground floor insulation a couple of years ago I was reasonably flexible with thickness - I could use anything from 60 mm to 100 mm it's worth investigating / calculating the cost comparing sizes sometimes there is a sweet spot where it works out you get better price For me 75 mm was a few pence more that 60mm but a significant amount cheaper than 80mm (obviously if you need fixed thicknesses and can't deviate then it doesn't help)

Yeah that’s a little bit more flow than the average rad based gas boiler circuit due to a very low dt (for clarification my usage was based on boiler dt of 5-7 deg c - a flow rate of 0.4 m3 / hr at a WC flow temp of 23 to 32 deg C. My old grundfos pump was 35W at similar flow rates (modern pumps are witchcraft)

70W is a pretty high usage for a modern circulation pump on a gas central heating circuit - mines using 13W 13W x 24 x 180 = 56kWh or £14 It was one of the factors I worked out before going 24/7 on CH The old pump I will grant you was a Watt hungry little sod.......... Imagine if all the houses in the UK adopted modern pumps saving £50 a year - the payback would be under 3 years.............

Hopping on the conversation - does anyone know what the scores are for all aspects of EPC assessment - I've googled a few times and not had a decent hit?

You're thinking shove the WD40 can in the mouth - because yes that would?

No I haven't - can I borrow yours? I don't mind the odd drip

My forum signature in a different place as always “in life you need three things - cable ties, duct tape and WD40 - if it moves when it shouldn’t use cable ties or duct tape - if it doesn’t move and it should use WD40” I am partial to old Opels so it’s pretty normal for those cars

just needs duct tape over the mouth to resolve the noise issue caused by cable ties

Really interesting @JohnMo and prompted me to work mine out - good way of looking it it

I didn't want them to be frightened by the stranger in their nest In hindsight I probably should have reduced the compressed air pressure slightly - I may have nuked the nest a little harder than intended - this made clean up a little longer than I had expected!!!!

I couldn't find anything like that when I had a massive wasp nest in my garage roof - I was up there extending the socket ring main and they really really weren't happy with me being there. I gave it a dose of wasp killer spray and but it only killed the stripey b*stards outside the nest and clearly they weren't happy inside the nest - I couldn't get close enough with a can and lance....... So radical measures required 3m 15mm copper pipe and a suitable plug Obviously I made the plug stripey b*stard friendly Then a decent load of ant powder (Apparently it has same active ingredients in powder format) From a distance of 3 m I lanced the nest and then with a compressed air feed I injected the ant powder - pushed down the pipe by the ear plug Next night it was very silent and I cleared it all up A massive number of lavae were in the nest and the whole lot went in a bin bag and I was able to finish my wiring!!!

I know I have a problem - acknowledging it is half the battle and I agree skinny cuts suck big wang............... I centered the shower controls and ended up with skinny cuts on the window - I spend less time looking at the window than I do at the shower controls - I'm at peace with the world

Now that I find perfectly fine - I think it's the off centre that makes it OK

Sometimes that's exactly what you have to do - call their bluff - it'll get escalated up the food chain and someone who has control of the purse strings will go WTF is going on.

I'd have centered it on a grout line so effectively a small cut out of 4 tiles but as I said it's probably just me Please ignore me

do you not have an external temp sensor (for WC) on your boiler?

It's probably do-able for me - I'll clearly have to bring my own beer (not much cos driving)

Is it just me that has teeth itching looking at that picture? ok yep just me 🙂

if you have a rainfall type shower head that isn’t 100% level then that’s pretty normal for the head to drain itself after a shower (the body of water in the head and riser above it just needs a small air return to set off a self drain. Both our showers can do this sometimes up to an hour later after a shower!!!

I think you’ve probably missed the nice collection @JohnMo has 😉 I wouldn’t want to swap any of them for an EV

It is also noticeable from my data gathering 1. how much hotter on average my loft is since I have improved the insulation level from 75mm to 375mm in 80% of the loft (still got 20% to do in Autumn) I've recently added to vents in two of the four gable ends and this has helped a lot 2. how much cooler the rooms below the improved insulation are compared to previous years

One of the best things I have done to manage temps and humidity in the house is to install a PIV unit in the loft - it runs at 20 l/s in winter (1 ACH) and 40 l/s in spring summer and autumn (2 ACH) It has several program modes but I set it to go into standby at 27 Deg C below that temp it constantly runs In summer it runs for approx 10 to 12 hrs as a result of the standby mode It's quite noticeable in the data that it has a cooling effect overnight/early morning and overall it helps to limit the solar gain in the south side of the house.

Looks lovely however the point remains - why did you think you needed it?

Any updates? I'm assuming next blog will be house up and moving in 😉

I bloody hate council idiots had enough experience of them in the past I applied to extend house 2 storey extension on the back to replace a horrible single glazed glass conservatory that could be used for maybe 2 days a year most of spring summer and autumn too bloody hot and rest of the year too damn cold and got planning permission granted. I had a back fence (usual 6 ft cant rail with featherboard) backing on to a turn round/visitor packing space in the cul-d-sac behind - Fence was 25 years old and rotten - I took a 10 ft section down to allow building materials to be delivered to the back of the property and used some heras fencing as a temp security measure. I got a council complaint that the heras fencing was taller than 6 ft (alongside a highway) and could potentially restrict visibility (I sh*t you not - it's bloody open mesh!!!) I dug a hole for the rubber feet and dropped the height to 6 ft - wrote them a letter and said all sorted fence is 6 ft now job done All went quiet - I finished the building works and started re-instating the fence to be served with a notice that the fence cannot be more than 3 ft high due to proximity of the highway (Turn round space/visitor parking in a cul d sac remember) I wrote back saying original fence installed by the builders was 6 ft - I'm just re-instating that and they were applying a rule regarding highway to my fence but not the two other gardens that also back on to this "highway" I got another letter saying in the nicest council language that they did NGAS - because I had removed the 6ft fence now 3ft was the highest fence I could install (Making my garden very easy to access for any local toerag.) So I did this which isn't a 6 ft fence Honestly it's not The council demanded a face to face meeting to discuss urgent resolution and I agreed to their request Came round and we walked round the cul-d-sac together and measured it with me pointing out again it was not compliant So I opened it I'd already unlatched the other side Because it wasn't a fence at all it was a feather board clad double gate and I said should anyone using the turn around / parking space find that their visibility is impaired I've had a sign made to say call at house XX and I'll open the gates................ Council lass clearly very very pissed about it but I never heard another more.