marshian

Because he's been told it cannot work by an "expert" - therefore it cannot work - doesn't matter what anyone else says because "not experts" It's not suitable for anything other than heating water and that's the end of it.............

Do you sleep in 3 different bedrooms? Do you spend time in the kitchen and sitting room overnight too? That's what you are doing now - how is that working out for you?? I just checked not a full moon till 3rd March. HTH

It’s meant well if you are lost on the roads sat nav will get you home - but if you ignore it and decide you know better you can end up lost. the contributions here regarding zoots ASHP are well meaning so think of it as sat nav directions…,.. zoot can chose to ignore it……

It means literally - want a warm house in the day you need to allow it to trickle heat in 24/7 Want a cold bedroom - turn the bloody rad off overnight and back on in the morning

Sat nav works for roads....... ASHP not so much

Exactly........................................

If you are using low heat levels to cover the heat being lost - you run the heating 24/7 - you can add a little setback if you want to bedrooms at night or fit trvs and cap the bedroom temps that way but the issue with setbacks is you need to run a higher temp to recover from the setback period My house bedrooms are at 18, living areas 20 and bathrooms 21 - all other areas are between 16 and 19 house is far more comfortable than heating am and PM in timed slots and the cost difference for me is an extra £60 a year - I’m happy to pay that because I can do that on a good night on the beer!!!!

I can go along with that I didn't want to go down the route of explaining what ON means for my house but since you've pulled me up on the word ON Outside temp sensor tells the boiler how cold it is - based on this temp the weather compensation curve sets the flow temp At outside temps below minus 2.5 the boiler pretty much consumes energy all the time at a rate of 4 kWh (so peak consumption when it's that temp outside in a day is 96 kWh (plus a 4 to 5 kWh for HW) This means my peak cost is £5 a day (100 * £0.05) When it's not bloody cold the boiler cycles - puts in some heat "on a burn" - circuit cools down "on a coast" Depending on the outside temp the burn can be as little as 20 mins or as much as 60 mins and the coast can be as little as 10 mins or as long as 3 hours - All I am trying to do is replace the heat lost and that heat lost is directly related to the difference between warm inside house and colder outside house - I'm not trying to heat the house....... It is a comfortable temp all the time because the boiler is putting back what the house is losing PS I have no TRV intervention - they are there as absolute room temp limiters in the event of solar gain Each rad is sized to the room heat loss No UFH (all rads) Flow temps range from 25 deg to 33 deg C - no rad ever feels warm!!!

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Don't drag me into this madness @-rick- To the OP My heating goes on in Sept and it get turned off in May once it is on it's on 24/7 - no setbacks at night - no comfort setting in the day time or any time - it's just on on permanently on - never turned off it's just ON ON Why? because as soon as the outside air temp drops below an average of 16.5 deg C this house needs a heat input (it might not need a lot at the start but it needs some so it gets some) - if I let it cool down in the winter it can take several days to get back to temperature and I'll pretty much consume the same amount of energy as if I'd left the heating on all the time so I don't because it's pointless. You are trying to heat a house with short bursts of heat from a heating system that is better suited to long low and slow - sorry but that's frankly madness................. I'm out.

I'm trying to help a friend with mental health issues - he's been living on his own in a house with no heating working over winter (I wasn't aware of this till I visited) - surprising how quickly he's gone downhill - it's a 25 year old house but no real fire or wood burner to revert to like an older property. when I visited it was actually warmer outside than inside. I'm not actually sure what is wrong with it but I'm going to try to get it fixed (providing the gas hasn't been cut off which is always a possibility!!)

I'm out - Late Shift

That's what I would be doing - a thin layer of foil insulation isn't going to have much impact on heat loss on a suspended ground floor

Really depends on cyl size and how much has been depleted - I was taking worst case scenario in a house with 5 people I have 117 Litre Cyl (2 people) 4 showers a day (two morning and two evening sees the top of the tank at 38 and the bottom at 12 - I can guarantee you that the average cyl temperature is not 26 Deg C (best guess would be 10 L at 38 and 107 litres at 12 would be an avg temp if you mixed it of 16 Deg) @Bigdeadbadger would be in more HW trouble if his three kids were girls

Mine gets that low every damn day.............. Cold water in is less than 12 Deg C right now

If my mental maths is right I'd say your water heating is going to need more poke than your space heating so get a boiler which will go as low as possible for space heating (Viessmann 200 will go down to 2kWh) Then size the boiler to to recharge a 400 litre cylinder with a heat pump coil in the shortest time possible (so 400 litres from 20 to 55 needs 17 kWh of energy) to do that in ~30 mins would need a boiler capable of throwing 32 kW at it)

Can always "upgrade" to ASHP later?? What do you think your heat loss will be at design temp because that's going to determine what min boiler output you need and the HW cyl size and HW demand is going to determine the maximum boiler output? (unless HW is lower than the heat loss)

As a result you should see a lower return temp at the boiler, longer cycles and hopefully a little more efficiency - it was effectively a short circuit for water to return to the boiler I have an ABV valve on my circuit - it's fully shut - all the rads have TRV's set to act as temp limiters in the event of solar gain on the south facing side of the house - North facing side will only get solar gain in the middle of summer (when the heating will be off anyway) It was only in use when I had "smart" TRV's on all the rads acting as temp controllers when I was doing scheduled heating - once I transitioned to Weather Compensated flow temps I removed all the "smart" TRV's and controlled the room temps by a combination of rad flow rates and WC flow temps

From this thread https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/41910-balancing-rads-help/page/3/

I have a suspended wood floor on ground floor - 1980's house It is insulated now but UFH was never an option so rads was the choice I had Low flow temps (max 35 deg C at -2.5 Deg C OAT) T22 and T33 rads - heat 24/7 and the house is really nice and comfortable all the time I think your best option is decent size rads, heat pump cylinder and a boiler that can do DHWP for fast recharge of HW cyl and WC for the CH

I went to see a friend in Essex a couple of weekend back - passed a new development just outside a village - all 4/5 bed detached houses - all the houses had different aspects north, south, east and west facing - normal for a small dense estate except all the PV was on the front facing roofs so some of the north facing houses it was pretty much window dressing

Just to expand on this (and give a real life example) I upgraded all my upstairs rads from T11 to T22 in order to run lower flow temps from a gas boiler As soon as we hit the heating season proper I had a nightmare with upstairs overheating and downstairs being not warm enough - so I throttled back the flow thro the upstairs rads - this had a big downside I effectively shrunk the avaliable circuit and had short cycling issues burning lots of energy and ending up with a house that was too damn cold all over unless I wound the flow temps up I learnt a valuable lesson - since then all the rads are now upsized and sized to meet the heat loss of the individual rooms I replaced the boiler with one that could modulate down to 4 kWh and could cope with low flow temps for CH and do DHWP for the cylinder recharge house is super comfortable and I'm running flow temps between 25 and 35 deg C under weather compensation and can re-charge the HW cyl with 70-80 deg flow temps in 30 mins once a day.

If I can help I will

Outstanding........................ Bravo

Adding to this - after just under a year of working perfectly I suddenly had an issue with the bathroom room temp - it was sitting at 16 deg C rather than the 20 to 21 that it normally was. Classic short circuit symptoms - only the bottom horizontal section was warm rest of the rad was cold (I'm running flow temps from 26 to 34 Max so rads are never what you would call hot). I isolated the rad and drained it down and looking from the opposite end to the diverter it was clear it had inverted and water was passing by. So I've piped it up TBOE like the rest of the normal rads and normal service has been resumed as far as bathroom temps are concerned. I don't like the visual appearance of a TBOE set up on a tall vertcal rad so I'll re-do the plumbing in the summer to hide the pipe behind the rad Having had the diverter failure I'll re-do the identical one in the ensuite as a "planned activity" rather than an activity provoked by Mrs Alien saying "it's bath night the bloody bathroom is freezing what are you going to do about it"