Gav_P

Simple question that I couldn’t find an answer for when googling... How far from an Unvented Cylinder can you put an expansion vessel? The reason for asking it to simplify access for annual testing. My UVC is a horizontal cylinder in a small loft space and you have to mimic a catapillar to get alongside it. I’d like to place the the vessel near the loft hatch (2metre approx from the point it currently is).

This is exactly what I do. ASHP directly to UFH, radiators & DHW (UVC with immersion top up)... I’ve also got Willis heaters now just in case of another issue with the ASHP or if it’s not man enough in the worst weather. So no storage, no SA, no PV. So significantly more basic system than most people on here, but cost me about £1k (plus UFH of about £250) in total so difficult to justify more expensive options as the payback would be significantly longer. My view is keep it simple, unless you enjoy it as a hobby - as that’s the only way of keeping the costs from being prohibitive.

Phah. Safety features are for wimps!

Just spotted another advert on eBay... possibly not as good as the above Kinspan but a nice description! https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183504793875

I guess that’s so you can have both heating and hot water in the event of the motor on the valve failing. The good news is you will now have a fully(and correctly) functioning heating and DHW system!! Time to celebrate! ??

Yeah you are so right! Fingers crossed! But at least it’s not essential now that you have the new board.

So I received the board back from @ProDave on Thursday but wasn’t home until today to fit it. Popped it in and powered the unit up. Turned on the room stat and the ASHP fires up... for 10 seconds, then turns off. The LED is blinking an error code (9), and before I check what it is I’m certain it’s low flow as I turned the pump down when using the willis heaters. So I crank the pump up a level and the ASHP fires up again.... but then I realise the fan isn’t turning and I have a different LED fault code flashing away (24).... it’s the fan. I’m thinking I’ve managed to bugger up the fan motor now! So I try to give it a little help with a screwdriver, kind of hoping a bump start would sort it. But it doesn’t budge, it’s solid! So I take the fan cover off and it appears a bit of foam has come unstuck and fallen down between the fan and the housing. I take it out put the cover back on and, third time lucky ???? Its working great! Thanks @ProDave for diagnosing and replacing the transformer and thanks everyone else for your advice and input!!

New advert on eBay! https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11021.m43.l3160/7?euid=6205589a9f50469ca046949261a162df&bu=43112337026&ut=RU&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283251909775&sojTags=bu=bu,ut=ut kingspan Aeromax Plus... could be useful as a spare for anyone whose already got one?

Ok... so after this minor deviation... anyone else got any ideas why joe90s heating is all assaboutface?

We probably need someone like @Nickfromwales to dumb it down for us. .. I’m sure it shouldn’t be this difficult!

Makes sense. Now power = defaulting to DHW (port B). Or override it in manual mode which opens all the doors for free flow everywhere. When you wire it up it will have 3 options. 1) no power = DHW (port B) 2) 1 signal asking for Heating = (port A) 3) 2 signals asking for DHW & heating = mid position (both ports) i guess!

Ah... when you are in DHW you must be creating a live feed to the valve... so the valve is thinking “oh, here comes the electricity I better switch over to heating, port A” i think you are just giving it a live feed at the wrong time... for DHW, when it should be for heating.

Ok, so it’s resting position is port B (hot water in installation guide) add power and it switches to port A (heating) in 18 seconds. Returns to port B under spring in 8 seconds. Is yours plumbed to water on B and heating on A? ... and is it powered from the ASHP (terminals 10 & N)?

That document is for a mid position valve.. is that what you have?

Port A, hot water is closed on my danfoss unit whilst not being powered.. which is what @joe90 was expecting I think.

@Onoff I think @joe90 said it was not a mid position above somewhere. It’s a danfoss valve I believe.. as per the document I linked above.

Are you certain that your system is calling for DHW or heating? If there is any doubt, why not just test where the heat is going by linking out across the terminals in the ASHP for heating (no. 3 and 6 IIRC). And then do the same for heating (no. 13 & 15 possibly). Also have you got a link between terminals 3 & 7?

So what’s the story? Is it behaving itself now?

Are you certain that you cannot do it under PD? How far from the side road is the existing elevation? But if that is too close, then assuming the existing porch is original, can you not build backwards from that (same width tho) up to 3 metres (subject to being 7 metres from the rear boundary).

How long does it run for before dropping off temp?

Does it? I thought that closing the circuit meant sending water to A (heating), opening the circuit returns it back to B (DHW).

https://assets.danfoss.com/documents/DOC222386403689/DOC222386403689.pdf

Just took a quick look at the danfoss website and it could be NO=DHW? i looked only work computer hence the rubbish image.... you don’t have a mid-position valve by any chance do you?

Isn’t the idea of resilient bars to effectively separate the plaster board (or acoustic board) from the joists... thus breaking the direct contact route of noise transfer? So not addressing airborne noise as much as walking or jumping about from upstairs? And posi joists most do this better than normal joists anyway don’t they? Or have I scooped too much red wine tonight? I opted for acoustic slabs between joists, rubber strips between joists and floor boards, and double sheets of 12.5mm standard plasterboard... all the cheapest option for me and seems to work as I can’t hear my daughter on her drum kit.