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@ProDave that’s a great start!! Brilliant!

Yeah but I was wondering if was more of a go / no go kind of signal. There seems to be just earth, live, neutral and a second “live” between the boards. But TBH I am just poking about by torch light. I wondered if something like the flow switch (that’s connected to the GMC) was the trigger to tell the inverter board to turn on.

I’ve just been wondering if there is a way to jury rig the ASHP to run without the GMC board. My theory is that there is very little interaction between the GMC board and the other main controller board (can’t remember off the top of my head what it’s called). The GMC seems to predominately just connect sensors. This would confirm that it’s the GMC in both mine and @joe90 is the problem component.

Perfect. I was hoping that you’d say that as I really only have space for horizontal installation.

Sounds very sensible. Although in my situation it wouldn’t work as a backup due to breaking the HP. ??‍♂️

That’s interesting. I was planning on inserting them as a kind of bypass, so sort of cutting off the circuit to the ASHP. Or cut the Willis out of the circuit when not required. Do you just have the one? I assume it’s larger bore than the standard 15mm versions.

I’m just working out how to fit the Willis heaters in and everything I read about them says to install them vertically... I’m assuming that’s because in a tradition installation (for DHW) they use a syphoning effect to circulate the water. However this feels odd to have the electrical side underneath (not ideal if there’s a leak). @Nickfromwales or anybody else’s who knows, do they have to be vertical or can I install horizontally?

If that’s all he’s going to do I would think it wasn’t worth the expense. What about the rest of the walls. Those floor boards will let so much sound through (unless he is using an acoustic underlay), and I assume he hasn’t put anything under them between the joist and part wall? And the ceiling doesn’t look like it’s been touched. Don’t get me wrong, the acoustic boards are good though!.. especially If they have been installed using an acoustic sealant (like green glue).

Ah ok thanks...?

I’ve now ordered a pair of willis heaters. Just have to figure out how to fit them in (all my plumbing is tucked away in what is effectively a stud wall) and get some power to them!! Thanks @Nickfromwales

Nice... looks like I have a little project for this week whilst ProDave is taking a look at the PCB when you say 2, I assume you mean in series? Out of 1 in to second then back into the main loop?

@Nickfromwales what a simple solution. Thanks!! Where in a system would you suggest to install it/them? Also, they appear to be 15mm, but my main loop (which has zones for UFH, rads and DHW) is 28mm. How do you isolate them when not in use etc. Should I zone it?

Oh , never heard of them... *trotting of to look at google now.

@Nickfromwales So what would you recommend for a system without a buffer tank? Except the obvious of adding a buffer tank.

That’s 2 advantages you have with your system; the immersion, and the buffer tank. However, we’ve not had proper heating for 4 years so another couple of months is nothing!!

Thanks @joe90 , prodave has offered to take a look to see if it’s repairable. So I’ll wait and see how he gets on and how you get on when your new board arrives..

Exactly... obvious things like pipe and cable openings, but less obvious are things like the small gap between floor board and the wall. This normally gets hidden by skirting boards but is actually quite a big acoustic path.

100mm I think... although it was a year ago and I’m trying to forget the days of living in a building site!

I used the rockwood RWA45 and jammed it every possible space in ceiling and walls. Seems to have worked very well as we used to be able to have conversations between floors/ rooms but now have to shout to be heard. The key for making it work is to make sure you seal round the edge gaps... noise can sneak through the smallest of holes, and will annoy the s**t out of you if you can still hear things after all the effort and expense of the rockwool. i also used the rubber insultation strips between joists and chipboard flooring... not sure if it did anything, but it’s cheap so worth trying. And having a young child and big dog running about I wanted to reduce the floor pounding noise!

I’m not sure if the ESP is anything better than the Cool Energy... just by what was being discussed here: but I know nothing when it comes to ASHPs... except how to fry a board!

@ProDave I agree with you that it’s probably only something simple... and if you feel you want to have a pop at it then I’m happy to let you try ? I have zero experience of electronics so I’m almost certain i’d make it worst and wouldn’t know how or what I’d done.

@ProDave well a bit embarrassing... I was wiring the ‘alarm unit’, which I unfortunately assumed was 0v. So with it live and connect in the HP end was pushing the cable through to the inside of the house and think I shorted the wires. So now I have no life on the GMC board LED. And the worse thing thing is that I now realise the alarm unit is a waste of time.

@JSHarris ok thanks for the advice. I didn’t realised I’d stumbled on to a good unit. It is my preference to keep it, but was just planning for the worst... especially as spare parts aren’t widely available. I’m thinking of giving a go at fixing the PCB... I’m thinking that it can’t get any worse. @joe90 I’d appreciate the details of where you have ordered yours from. Do you mind saying how much it is costing?

@JSHarris ah I see. Thanks for the explanation. I think i’ll keep looking for another potential replacement to the Kingspan.

Ah explains the price then. They way they word it leads you to think that they make them themselves. Could you explain in terms for a dummy what the different is between inverter controlled or not? And how you can tell?