nod

pick a dry day Dilute 3-1 Spray on Pump sprayer or what ever you have Let the rain do the rest

No they won’t But groundwork contractors will have there own

We’ve added SS tall Rads in the bedrooms and four bathrooms But don’t expect to ever use them We did the same in our previous build and never used the first floor heating in five years The temps seem to track the GH UFH Anyone considering adding UFH to the bedrooms really need to look at the fabric of there build and insulation levels

Scrape and clean thoroughly Bleach Leave to dry Then use a cheap oil based undercoat to block staining

That’s enough Bracket 50 mil in

You need at least one layer of board between the rez bar and top hat Your tight for room on the right side Fix one set of brackets 150 in from the edge The right side fix in the middle While the left side of the bracket need marking and cutting off Leave the right side long and fold it over the stud and fix to the face of the stud

We’ve used Protec twice now Basic liability Couple of mil Fire vandalism and theft of materials delivered to site Once you start adding plant and tools Quotes jump up

Think coat render we do lots of TF buildings that way Sticks like sh## to a shovel

4-1

Unfortunately paint and filler won’t stay on cement board Thin coat is fine if it’s done right

You don’t pay for building control till all the planning and materials are agreed We paid around £850 for a full house and workshop I think LA have a standard price for there services

Don’t forget to weight the track down overnight Bricks bags What ever you have handy

Use ISO roll Cut it into three with a sharp hand saw 400 mil rolls before taking the plastic off

K is as good as anything There guarantee and customer support IIs miles ahead of the rest Webbers reps all ding from the same hymn sheet Blame the installer or the temperature etc

Your Architect is at fault Not the bricklayer 10 mil is not enough Even if the brickwork and blockwork is absolutely perfect 10 mil isn’t enough room 25 is tight but 50 is better Im surprised no one has pointed this out

I would imagine that the minimum pitch is hardly any and most will be a standard pitch

A dense concrete block will be fine Most Architects specify dot and dab It does have a warmer fell if sealed properly Using an insulated plasterboard for dot and dab on the perimeter walls will up rate your U values and give you a very warm build Timber Frame is a very good option But expect to add about a third to your build cost

Depending on the finish 2k is alright if your not having to do anything yourself

Just to add I put attic trusses in ours and cavity wall 10 meter x7.5 Slate roof and slab insulated and loo Based on under a £1000 M2 for main house

No knock 25% off

A breach is a breach But it hardly seems fair We lost patience and requested the planning officer be replaced As she had passed a build near by without any requests We cited inconsistencies Her boss requested 48 to make a decision Then passed it a couple of hours later I would say they don’t want the attention Everybody has someone above them

Ask for her to be replaced We did and it was passed the following day

That’s closet I can find on my phone Prior to being counter battened with 3-1 Exactly the same on an internal Just reversed Your skimmer or taper will do the rest

A picture would help I’d avoid using beads on internals Just looking to see if I’ve any hips on my phone