the_r_sole

The thing is, if you have no understanding of what changes will impact the SAP then how do you decide what changes you want to make?

What version of SAP are they using? There's a few tricks/cheats you can look at to get decent scores - but it also needs a bit more input!

Is osmo Polyx oil not the answer to everything?! in the matt finish ?

It's always been something called "...... Black" when I've specced them tbh - my biggest issue with coloured window frames is that they seem to age pretty badly.

black (or just off black) frames are coming more into fashion now

Only buy something that would need planning permission if you are happy to live in it as it currently is - it's a huge risk to purchase in the hope of getting planning to extend. It's technically possible, but it could be very expensive to do and you don't know yet what the detail of ownership is within the deeds... It's difficult to do proper due diligence in a siutation like this as solicitors don't usually let you back in after offering and they probably won't let into the deeds either until there's an agreement in principle

You're on the list @nod with that ?

Why was the previous application refused? If you've had the same extension refused twice, it's time to change the design if you want to progress

If that's the case you need to prove it formally in a planning application, his report clearly states it's much larger than adjacent extensions, if that isn't the case then you can disprove that, thus my suggestion to give the report to a designer and address the reasons for refusal, it's not about what's fair or not, it's about what complies with current planning policies

They don't always like the bumpers, it's just your luck, I've seen some interesting ramps put in for completion inspections ?

Or don't put a 6m deep extension on the back of your house? Design something more in keeping with the local policy and surrounding context? Plenty of options, take the report to a designer and get them to design something that addresses the bits which don't comply with policy...

So basically it has nothing at all to do with the objection and it's been assessed as too large against the local plan. No matter what the planning officer has told you on the phone, what they have put in writing is what is recorded as the decision, putting the same application in again can't possibly be judged any differently on the basis of objections given the content of that report. Seems to me the planning officer was trying to get you off the phone or email as quickly as possible and blaming a neighbour is easier than taking responsibility for the decision...

You'll have to slope the ground up to it around it or put an edge/handrail around that for building standards (it's amazing how often they dissappear after completion...

The thing is, if that drawing is what's been priced there's a huge amount of assumption required by a contractor to price it up, so it's no surprise that you've got a lot of variation - in the market at the moment I'd be very suspicious of a cheap price, maybe sit down and go through what they've priced and the assumptions they've made before you agree it, it could be that you expectations aren't the same as the contractor....

Where are you based? There's a few architects who have "project readiness" guides which could help you... The main thing is that you want to speak to a number and make sure you get a designer you are comfortable with, so you can be completely open about your lifestyle and tastes etc, I'd also say to look for someone that wants to find out about you rather than just jump straight into designing what they think you want...

What level of information/drawings/specifications have you given them to price?

Out of interest @DachaidhDubh did you use one of the oban based architects for the design? (you can dm me if you don't want to post their name on here!)

I'm doing one at the moment with Pozi joists, 18mm ply deck, 30mm biscuit screed with ufh pipes and 22mm flooring over...

It's not a reg I've heard of before but I'm always learning!

what type of insulation are you using? usually you'll get a better uvalue with insulation between and below rafters....either way you should include a service void (38mm straps) below the rafters to run the services...

you've got a self build neighbour too @mattp22

that's a big old house to build on the cheap!!

quite a common conundrum! with something like this it might be worth looking into getting a kit and erection package, then you can manage everything else as individual packages and you've got a wind and watertight shell relatively quickly (unless of course your local joiner has a workshop for knocking out the kit panels)

nice one, are you on the top side of the loch looking south or the other side? Are you going timber frame?

What does the written refusal state?!