Rob99

I definitely advise one. I laid my first loop without one and it was a nightmare carrying the pipe coil and turning it over and making sure it didn't kink. One 60m loop took me a few hours. Bought a decoiler and similar sized loop took a third of the time and was so easy. I still have the decoiler if you're interested.

I have a Wunda system and the pump set had a manual blending valve whch wasn't particularly good and I found did vibrate and was noisy a lot of the time. Following recommendation from @Nickfromwales I now have an Ivar pump set and blending valve which is fantastic. Leaving the purchase of the manifold and pump set/blending valve until later on is definitely a good thing.

Not been logged on here this week so missed this earlier. The 1-wire probes with 3 wires (confusing that!!) have a separate power line. I'm not a 1-wire technical expert but my understanding is that having a separate power line rather than parasitic power is preferable. Not sure why but likely to be more reliable as doesn't require pull up resistor etc. Loxone's 1-wire extension has the 3 connections so no reason to use sensors with parasitic power.

Good advice this...... Definitely what you should be doing and I'm not sure why you haven't done so yet as your neighbour is clearly unreasonable A solicitor's letter telling your neighbour that they have no legal right to trespass on your land and put up an illegal boundary fence, and making it very very clear that this will escalate to the courts, is more likely to make them think twice than any letter or communication you have with them.

If you will be standing on the step to lock/unlock the door then a depth of 600mm is better as you won't feel like you're about to fall backwards when getting your keys out. Also, think about where the lock is in relation to where you will stand. Ideally you want to be able to stand with the lock directly in front of you so that its easy to reach whether you're left or right handed so you need the step to be wide enough for that.

We used one of these from HSS to remove vinyl floor tiles from screed. It's better than the hand held breaker as it has a sideways oscillating blade which is much more controllable. It didn't damage the screed at all but I don't know how it would do with wooden flooring. Certainly up to the job. Tried a manual blade on a long handle first and managed about 1m2 in an hour. This machine did a 12m2 room in about the same time.......!!!

I just take photos of my meter readings. That way there's no arguments about misinterpretation and photos are date stamped. Also means I don't have to remember where I wrote them down !!

Yes, I'm familiar with the utility market and it's tricks. I often find I change 2 or 3 times a year to make sure I'm on the best current deal.

Nope. Sometimes my readings are a day or two late but they seem to often ignore my readings anyway and then, instead of applying a sensible past usage reading they just use some random number. I manage my elderly in-laws bills now as they got into a terrible mess a few years back with estimated readings and, being of a certain age, just kept paying the bill when it arrived.

This happened to me a couple of times over the past 6 years and the regulator just gets customers transferred to another provider. Key thing, as Steamy Tea says, is to take frequent meter readings and, if you had an online account without paper bills try and download all your bills and info as sites can be just shut down with no notice (ask me how I know!!) I religiously take meter readings every few weeks, and especially at the time my monthly bill is due. In the 5 years I've been monitoring mine and my in-laws energy bills, I've never had an entirely accurate bill from any of them...!!! Oh, and until you have confirmation of new provider, cancel your DD so they can't take any more money. They can always send you a bill if they think you owe them anything.

Is the grey shaded area part of your site? If so, why can't the house be located more centrally and away from the boundary.

Okay, now I can see a bit more clearly where this wall is but if it's not the external wall of the building why do you need it and particularly that high?

I didn't spot this at first but it's a little confusing where you refer to the boundary wall being 6.2m and 4.8m when in fact it looks to me like you're actually referring to the side wall of the house. Can you confirm this. If the officers report recommended approval then the committee have to have grounds for a refusal. They can't just decide to refuse because they don't like it, although they often do but then its overturned on appeal. Why did it go to committee? Were there lots of objections during consultation period?

Thanks, thats useful. I agree about paying a bit more and (in theory) having better quality products but can still be a bit hit and miss. Was your ebay purchase a standard hose, as that's my other possible option?

Was that this brand? Seems the quality on the market is very variable. Was it the hose itself which failed or the connectors?

Anybody have any experience of these......good or bad? https://www.amazon.co.uk/FlexiHose-Upgrade...SWQBH?th=1 They seem to be very popular at the moment

Your neighbour is a bully and allowing him to get away with this just reinforces his behaviour. You must take legal advice. If it were me I'd be very much taking him to court to remove his extension from your wall as the facts are indisputable. It's shocking that he thinks he can get away with it. If he is an Architect or Chartered Surveyor (you state both so not sure which) and relies on that accreditation for work, then I would also complain to the relevant RIBA/RICS professional standards office about his behaviour. And unfortunately, even if you do nothing now to resolve this issue, you will still have to declare this if you sell the house. You may not be "in dispute" with your neighbour but you are now aware of this.

HaHaHa.........I'm going to have suggest that to Loxone for a new product!!! Mind you, being German/Austrian maybe they've thought of it already. ??

@Dan F is absolutely right, get hold of config and have a play around.

Thanks @joth Happy to help ?

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@OldSpot I bought mine from Heating Controls Online but only because they were about £20 cheaper. If you're replacing the complete pump set on an existing manifold then make sure to measure the distance between the upper and lower manifold connections. My old pump set had a standard 130mm pump the same as the new set but the valve arrangements meant that I had to also buy a 25mm pump adaptor so that it all fitted correctly. Not at all difficult to do just something to watch out for.

I completely sympathise with your position if you had a fixed budget and this is now costing more than you expected. It sounds like he had other things on his mind and simply did not mention VAT and it's probably a genuine error. Which JCT contract are you using, as that will determine how VAT is dealt with? If it's the homeowner contract then the stated price includes VAT in which case he will either have to do the work and cover the mistake or withdraw from the work. If it's any other JCT contract then the contract price will be excluding VAT. I would be worried if he said he is losing money when you offered to meet him halfway as that suggests his margin is less than 10% which seems far too low. Bottom line, it's never a good idea to struggle on when there is this type of early dispute. Best to part company and find another builder as you'll never be satisfied and will always be thinking he's just trying to recover his money with extras.

If you reported this issue to the builder within the first 2 years, and can evidence that with paperwork etc, then the NHBC are still on the hook to deal with it. I had a few dealings with NHBC some years ago and raising issues within the first 2 years was always the critical element. Maybe they meant you need a solicitor to force the NHBC to do something!!

Thanks @Russell griffiths just had a look at their website and, although the picture shows the valve as Ivar, the description and downloadable user manual brands it as CosyFloor. Is it a genuine Ivar? I've been caught out with pictures and descriptions not matching in the past so am a bit wary these days.