Tyke2

This is good advice. Also if you are concreting the tank in, fill the tank with water at the same time/depth as the concrete pour, as the tank could float up out of the concrete. I remember we had to do this once, albeit on a 32000 litre SUDS tank.

For domestic drainage the design is very easy. For SW there is not a max gradient really. But for FW 1:10 is considered the max gradient to avoid the "splat" factor at changes of direction. best practice is to have 300 mm of cover to the pipe at the head of the run i.e the top manhole. so with a 100mm pipe it would be 400m to invert. Use a proprietary plastic manhole. use a gradient of 1:60 minimum to get a self cleansing velocity (1:40 preferable) gradient over the distance to the outfall drain (public sewer) . if the new pipe is then above the outfall you can use a backdrop as someone has stated before. or build a manhole at the higher depth just before the outfall manhole at the higher level and have the last short length at a steep gradient up t0 1:10. Hope this helps.

Barnsley are still going through the process to get the Local Plan approved and adopted. The CIL will be brought in at the same time. So only apply to new permissions after this date, which is planned for late 2018, but may be early 2019

Hi Im probably too late to assist now! I had this same issue on my build. If you have to maintain the 100mm cavity then you need to pick out the most protruding "wonky" bit and use this as the datum for the internal blockwork. On mine the protruding area was most prominent at wall plate , so I used a plumb line from this point and projected it down to the foundation. measure the 100mm cavity from this point. Its you decision if you want top make the internal square or not. I had a 50 mm cavity on mine, with a leaning wall of 125mm. So at worst case I had a 175mm cavity. I drilled holes on the existing wall and used epoxy resin to set in wall ties. The ties I had made bespoke, in 3 sizes 150mm, 225mm and 300mm, with a wavy tail on one end to epoxy into the hole and a "kite" shape at the other to fit in the new mortar joint. Hope this helps ?

Im not sure what actual make I used as it was a while ago. But glue and tape the joints and edges and it all works great.

Hi All I'm looking at doing my second self build. Which will be a traditional new build. I did a listed barn conversion 18 years ago. I must hold my hands up to a bit more knowledge than that though as I worked in technical depts. in some of the national house builders for 20 years. Most knowledge is of traditional brick/block construction, plus a bit of timber frame. I have done pretty much every site abnormal known though. I have precious little practical experience in renewables, but did a little PV roofing about 15 years ago. From experience more innovation is done by the self build "crowd" than any of the national builders!

Hi The old fashioned way works ok too!. This video shows setting out in plan form only, but it shows how to set the profiles too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dN3Iku0Bns If you set the string to a known level. Say 500mm above DPC. then work out the distance from this level to the required bottom of foundation. Make a stick this long - this is your "traveller" the digger driver then uses the stick at each point along the string for his depth. Similar to this method for digging a trench:- http://www.ruralworks.com/reports/profileboard/ProfileBoard.html Costs are some bits of wood, and a ball of string. This method would be used for most buildings before laser levels were invented.

I used a similar phonelic coated chipboard. Left open to the elements for weeks over winter. https://www.mkmbs.co.uk/prodt000653-chipboard-tg-p5-phenolic-weyroc-protect-2400mm-x-600mm-x-22mm-fsc/