Hobbiniho

as said a bit strange to have putty holding in DG, it may be quite difficult to replace the DG units with something much thicker, needs careful measurement to see what size DG unit will fit and still allow glazing beads to be fitted, ideally you want the largest spacer bead in the unitthat you can fit, i have in the past had to make custom beads with a rebate so i could get a fixing through the face. the DG unit can be measured with a quite clever device called a glasdickenmesser although i suspect most tradesmen wont have one and will advise removing the glass and measuring it

local MP alistair carmichael has been poking the government about this very issue https://www.shetlandtimes.co.uk/2023/03/02/alternative-fuel-questions-raised-by-carmichael

if they are structural you will probably have to "sister" new studs alongside them and bolt through but would need the input from a structural engineer, if not structural then just cut the bottom off and scarf new bits on if you cut the angle shallow enough and use plenty of glue and screws they will be plenty solid enough for a partition wall

my sister has an immersun diverter powered by a wind turbine and she uses it to heat her hot water, she directs excess above the 3.8Kw to a combination of a electric panel heater and an old storage heater (not sure if this is the immersun or the wind turbine control that does this) meaning basically nothing is exported to the grid this has meant that only on the very coldest calm days in winter she has had to fire up the oil boiler, her electricity bill for the last quarter was about £10, unless you were an early adopter of solar like my dad you wont get any payments for the electricity you export so would benefit from self using as much as you can

yeh structural hole is too big, the way i would have done it is make the door jamb the depth of the wall then had facings on both sides, this then gives you something that the skirtings can meet into, you now have a massively uneven reveal on one side, this screams to me of someone that is in way above their ability to plan things, in the first photo you can see that the door is too close to the wall not allowing a facing down that side, this meens your skirting on that wall will be a horrible detail, there is absolutely no excuse to make so many mistakes on a new build, if it was a refurbishment there would be compramises but even then you would at least have got the head height correct

4mm plywood is really a bit thin, i usually use 6mm, i take it you glued and nailed in a 100mm grid?? and im presuming that you used a latex based screed??

you might be best looking for a "magic repair man" "snagging repair man" rather than a local worktop company, a good skilled person will be able to make that joint look better than new

i have fitted a few big shelves on timber stud walls and used these brackets https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114328853072?hash=item1a9e87da50:g:1eAAAOSwXKdeTY6s&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4ATIIWPI2wpBIExfpsusBsV0kc1Irjn6FmpJ8WARl0TeNd3hFS7EMfTvzX0W9n%2FZsr1yrT4r4RuIc5GhqMUnQS5LUX4NriFaEkcTlbS%2FSwZ%2Fq3efpqF1lY0%2FwYMiq2RxAgSihd1XE0Qy9yAKl1PKkWUFVh52CSFwxqRAHPoahO5kzXjSai53g%2B6mC%2BhxYu8YaRiAjvLuchWqZr4kRXZsa9JlIX78%2B%2F1u852aPQMFxqnS96MOwH%2FiAepI4M9iGnkBpnX1Su6Gazjmr19sXZKjKB5YWieZeYs5jZC62VZoWuFZ|tkp%3ABFBM4PaJwPVg they work very well and i can easilly support my bodyweight on just 1 bracket, admittantly i sunk the bracket into the studs before plasterboard making the fixing plate completely hidden as can be seen in this photo https://photos.app.goo.gl/ojAfDDAswKvb2NQw6

looks good so far, do you have any vertical lines to make sure you keep your spacing even? i always enjoyed working with slate roofs although up here it was direct to sarking

as said it could be anything, try using zoom earth and see if you can get a clearer picture

first thing i would be doing is getting a "podger" a thin bit of round bar with a T bar handle on the top and finding out how deep the peat is, you will also be able to tell if what is under is hard or soft, i cant really tell from the photos what you own but if you own most of what is in the second photo those raised bits in the foreground will likely be old dry stone walls so would be suitable to be reused for road construction, without digging trial holes you wont really know if what you have underneath will be hard enough or if it has too much clay and will turn to soup, i presume you are in unst given the reference to 1 quarry and the spaceport

i presume that the worry is voltage drop?? do you have an official quitation for a supply showing cable route and cost??, when my mum had her electricity supply converted from overhead to underground then she had an official quote from SSE done from plans which showed the proposed cable route, when the guys came to site then they realised that the cable route was too long for the voltage drop of the cable that they were going to use and had quoted for, to counter this they had to install a larger cable from the pole to almost all the way into the house then jointed a smalled diameter cable into the house to the new cutout fuse, this additional cost was not passed onto my mum as it was SSE who had made the mistake in the calculations

realistically what he should have done is chip down all the rest of the sole plates by 8mm and then tapered the sole plates at the problem area, providong that the rest of the blockwork is level enough this would then have given him a flat level base to work off, timber packers etc is really just a bodge you would really need to use grout to take up a gap that big

i presume that your liquid screed floor isnt perfectly flat?? there is no real need to use latex on a concrete floor but they are maybe taking a belt and braced approach, the plywood is needed and should be glued, nailed at 4" grids then a latex acreed applied over the top dont underestimate how little it takes to show a flaw in karndean, if it isnt completely snooker table flat you will see the flaws

iv just had a look at the instructions https://www.velux.co.uk/professional/technical-resources/installation-guides and dependant on what flashing kit and window you have depends on how the cill sits, what window and kit do you have?? to me it looks like the cill is too high and possibly not the right shape to work with the velux windows, the flat bit of the cill should be under the window, but it is likely too big if you mastic the gap at the bottow as the instructions suggest you will have a flat bit that water will collect on