Super_Paulie

Just to confirm, that vinyl over the blown tiles worked for almost 2 years until I removed it this week 👍

Thought about it, then just added a smart relay to every light switch. Came in handy especially when we decided that we didn't want a pendant over a table, but already had the wiring in. Just told the software to do something else when the switch was thrown (dim spotlights lights 50%). "Sexy time switch"

My calculations are around 15m of 16mm, not a lot at all. Sure it'll be fine 🤞🏻

The boiler runs at 50, the return temp gets to 40 ish before it hits the cycle. I was planning on using a valve on the bathroom bypass to control the bathroom UF. I have another bypass rad in the hall which is always open.

I'm off planning on running mine from the return on the bathroom rad/one of the bypass rads. Just snake the return under the floor on its way back to the boiler from the UF system.

6mm it is, cheers 👍 Tyneside? How dare you, I'm a Sunderland lad. 6 easy points, we have a beach etc. Love a stottie like it had to be said, add in a saveloy with pease puddin and you've nailed it.

Just about to order my sub floor for this, @Nickfromwales would you recommend 6, 9 or 12mm ply over the 22mm P5? Got my spreader plates at the ready.

Behind the walls or inside the cavity?

straight up (or down) from the edge/corner within 150mm zone and then horizontal to the switch. Then repointed. ?

Could be a fake wall I guess. Or could have ran the cable along the mortar lines and then repointed? It would still be within wiring zones by the looks of it. I went the conduit route myself.

i leave it maybe 4 or 5 minutes before pushing to wall. Needs bracing until it goes off, i tend it leave it braced for as long as possible, 30 minutes or more, sometimes with a mechanical fix as well. With Insta i found that it went solid a lot quicker as well. I mean im as happy as i can be in that the boards are still attached to the walls... Id use Insta over the Soudabond if it wasnt so pricey.

I used Soudabond for my whole place. Only difference from Insta seems to be it takes longer to "skin over". I used Insta when I couldn't get my usual stuff and was caught out as I left it 5 minutes like the souda and it had almost gone off.

i hope its not against the law to keep the window film on, all my upstairs UPVC still has it on 2 years later... 🤣

I just made them myself, I work in the design field so have access to laser cutters and what not.

i had about 10mm under my beam to the lower end of the joist, so i just packed the beam with wool and then PIR and aerogel underneath it and flew standard plasterboard over it, BC was happy with it. If i didnt have that depth id probably look at either doubling up the plasterboard on the ceiling (not a bad idea) but leave it short at the beam for insulation or batten out the entire ceiling to get that depth. That beam was stone cold before i did the above so quite the thermal bridge. On my upright encased in the cavity i sealed it up around the edges with airtight foam and tape and then glued aerogel to it. When i foamed my boards on i had enough of a void behind them to just fly over the aergel. I havent tried my thermal camera on it but i'll have a look later i think but so far no issues.

build a sled if you have loads to do? a sled and a hardpoint saw is what i used.

🤴 Thank you my liege.

I guess why use the plywood at all? Just to smooth over any wonkyness in the chipboard?

i wont argue with that experience, thanks Nick. Just so im on the same page, i always thought the ply screwed over the subfloor was so that if it needs to come up in the future then you dont have to destroy the subfloor. Surely gluing the ply to the subfloor will make that impossible? I assume im just overthinking this.

That's what I did in my porch, just forced the chipboard down onto the fibre-bouncy spreaders 👍 Thanks Nick, appreciate the info. Any reason for 6mm ply as opposed to a cement based board? I'm thinking for heat transfer.

Evenin. I'm onto planning my bathroom and looking for advice and general opinions, which will be ongoing... Searching buildhub via Google seems to have gone by the wayside and I can't seem to word what I want in the site search so here I am. I'm going to extend my UFH to the small bathroom (3x3m) and I'm struggling to find the build-up that would be best. For info the bathroom doesn't really need it, putting it in just to take the edge off a cold floor when barefoot. My initial plan is PIR between joists, pipes clipped to it (or spreaders). The original floorboards need to go, so this is where I'm struggling for info. Replace subfloor with chipboard/ply? Then if I want to tile, do I need to go over this with say 6mm cement board? Insulated tile backer is adding insulation that I don't need. I assume I don't tile directly into the subfloor. Cheers friends.

i used Soudal and can recommend. I also nicked from Egger from work and wasnt as impressed with that one.

i have carpet in 1 room and LVT in the other. The carpeted room has the underlay that is designed for UFH (ThermalStream) but just the standard carpet that was there before i installed the system, i'll change for low tog once the building work is done as its the main route from front to back of the house. I can tell you that the carpeted room struggles in comparison. The back room is almost always between 21 and 23 but the carpeted room struggles to get beyond 21 no matter how long you run it. If that sort of temp is your bag then no worries, but i like it warm. Its not bad, its just no where near as effective as the room with LVT. My manifold mixer is 43.

mine was the inside face, flush with the block. I attached a 10mm aerogel with spray adhesive and them foamed the edges to the block. Finally covered in plasterboard when i did the full wall, avoiding a join at that point. Seems to have worked, no noticeable cold spots here and previously the steel was absolutely freezing.

interested in the body dryer. Any good?