Pete

I had this issue! Office staff deemed it ok so we proceeded with the ducting etc. When insp came he was not happy about the ducting, another story, but even less with the internal meter. When I told him it was a Passive house and had been sanctioned with his planning people he told me he needed to make some calls. When he came back he begrudgingly told me all was good but he was not happy, what I wanted to say to him was suck it up buttercup but thought better of it!

We did not go for cert either. We decided that the cost was not worth it and spent the money on the fabric of the building!!

We built to Passive standards but never tweaked the house design. Our house is 330m2 and has a lot of glazing which is not compatible with Passive!! We kept things really simple in terms of ufh and it is all one zone. We use ASHP for ufh and hw and it works well for us. We only moved in two months ago so we are still getting used to the ASHP and tweaking it but our electric bill for last month was £122. The house does not have any other form of heating and the stat is set at 21. We built in t/f and used the Passive frame/foundation combo. As @jacksays the floors are always warm if the house is warm. We just used the concrete slab as a thermal store and it is brilliant. We only have porcelain tiles so it is great at heat transfer. Mvhr is a must and the fresh air feeling is lovely inside all the time.

We had the issue with the top of the door dropping and I used an acrobat to push it back up and tighten the fixing screws

I got my roof from Catnic (same as Tata) and the first/starter panel arrives cut to size and you only cut the last panel.

My house was 80 metres from the road and I requested 32mm and it was not a problem

I have 3 light boxes in the kitchen, dining room and lounge and I have put them on a dimmable remote control which is really easy to do and makes turning on/off and dimming very easy

I used a Sigma cutter. Like anything it takes a little getting used to. Do not apply great pressure when cutting. When starting the cut pull back at the beginning of the tile to ensure you have done the first couple of inches and then just one straight cut to the end. Quick positive snap on the lever and that is all ever did. YouTube is good for learning about this!!

I did exactly the same on an old cottage stone sill and it is still good 6 years later

Not Stevie Wonder though!!

I totally agree about them not being set up properly but then again when you look at people on here most are really keen on understanding most things about their build and some are not!! Plus I think you need a month or so of tweaking the settings and getting to know how the house responds to the heat pump and vicky very. Last week my cop was pretty poor as it was cold but now it is running at 4. The cost of heating the house is significantly less than it was last week. As we all keep saying put your money in the fabric of the building. I am really happy we put our ufh pipes in a slab rather than a screed imo.

I think you and @Onoffare long lost brothers!!

My Panasonic 9kw keeps my 300l Panasonic cylinder topped up nicely. The controller is very easy to understand and Luke at Panasonic is the most helpful person you can come across. I am not spending £50 a week on my unit but its horses for courses. I have a passive build and my floor tiles where still lovely and warm at 11pm last night when the unit turned off at midday. The house dropped half a degree overnight and the heat pump is still not coming on as it is still lovely and warm. There are only two of us most of the time so I appreciate HW usage will be lower. As I have said before it takes a while to get used to your house and it will/will not perform.

Thanks; A filling loop near the filter (item 2) on my diagram, prior to my drain cock? Is this filling loop over and above the 2 on the expansion vessels? Also could I ask what UVC you went for? Yes, a filling loop near the drain cock. You do not need anymore filling loops. I went with the Panasonic cylinder as it came in the kit I purchased.

It is really easy to do yourself. I have both the frame and finish nailed and as @PeterWsays it takes about 30 minutes.

Sorry, the kit I bought came with two 1metre flexi pipes as I had read about the vibration problems. To be honest the pump is so quiet I am not sure there would be a problem but better to be safe than sorry!

I used 28mm copper from HP to isol valves just inside the house and then 28mm Hep2o to the plant room and then 28mm copper in the plant room. I used glycol as it came with the system I purchased. I added another exp vessel as they do not cost much and just removed any doubt. The cold feed (HW) to the tank has the return leg for the heating side directly above it so we just fitted a filling loop there with check valve to make things easier.

I fitted my Panasonic ASHP before xmas using the above diagram. I fitted an expansion vessel due to the size of my ufh system. The buffer tank if supplied by Panasonic does not have a coil inside, it is just a tank. My diverter valve is a two way, comes in from the heat pump and either goes to HW or UFH so pretty basic but works fine.

Buy cheap, buy twice, an @Onoff moto!!

Only one make and that is Gaggenau

What Jack said. I think he should be called @SteamyteaKWH!!

Garden to do next but travelling is in the agenda. My son finishes his aerospace degree this year but with Covid he is not sure what he will do if he cannot get a job. He has worked on many houses with me since he was 10/11 and fancies doing properties up so may have to get him started (with the proviso that we work normal hours and the xbox is used sparingly)

You have not finished yet??

Top of the class!!

Labour charge