8ball

"The body drier conveniently heats the bathroom at the same time"..........but surly you have nearly finished in the bathroom if you are drying? I must admit it would come in handy for drying my spray on tan though. Also do these have a built in extractor as the nice lady in the voice over informs of less moisture in the air compared to towels drying. 1 wet towel drying for a couple of hours = moisture from 1 body 1 body drier drying = moisture from 1 body Same amount of moisture which ever way you go, surely towel moisture is better as you have the choice to hang it elsewhere or out side. PS. I have terrible ADHD and also slightly autistic so sorry for my grammar and other badly written posts

I had my eye on one of those on Ebay, it was used for 6 years. I ended up fussing over it that much trying to decide that I missed the end of the auction Still trying to decide to go used or new, the used ones go for about £350 - £450 and new around the 1k

Thanks for the reply PeterStark, I'm just a bit nervous about buying a used machine as I have never used one before and have no idea what type of things can go wrong with them and the costs involved in fixing them. I don't mind getting my hands dirty fixing/fiddling with stuff if things go wrong with machines so would try and do any servicing myself if need be. Ah well I suppose that's what comes of buying second hand machines eh

I have seen quite a few 2nd hand water softeners at about half the price they are new but am worried about the costs involved if the machine does not operate correctly. Has anyone had a Harvey/Twinteck twin tank non electric and had to have it serviced and what cost involved? Cheers Buildies

Hey everyone thanks so much for the advice, I have no problems with back boxes I just wanted to be able to trace my wire run locations precisely as I have quite a few sockets in the kitchen and don't want to drill/screw through them when mounting cupboards. I think it comes down to my naff equipment for detecting the wire, I'm going to purchase a a tone generator and sniffer as dpmiller mentioned. Again cheers for the advice guys

I'm not far from you, Kings Sutton near Banbury and our water is as you described "Damp Chalk". Next week I start my mission on finding a decent water softener.

Seems that when copper wire is buried to deep my detector does not pick them up, I even borrowed my dads more expensive detector and had the same problem.

Seems like such a simple question but I could not find a clear answer, I'm about to have a plasterer come in to plaster the kitchen and dinning room, I have chased out my runs for the wiring and have used plastic ducting to protect the cables. My question is once the rooms are plastered how easy is it to find the wiring runs as plastic ducting does not help with detection, is there some kind of tape you can apply to the plastic ducting before plastering a bit like the tape that John Guest provides for pipe detection in walls. Any advice much appreciated :-)

I use the Netgear AV500 plug in powerline adapters all over the house and never had one problem with them, lots of traffic from streaming servers, Tado heating system, gaming etc. I must be lucky with my set up as I do hear people having problems. I even use one of them on a extension cord which is advised against and it works exactly the same as at the plug socket. Done

I think I'm going to go for the Fossa Substain WB Exterior Woodstain and then the Fossa Superstain WB Exterior Woodstain, I'll update this post once the job is done and give the results ;-)

Thanks for the reply Barney12, I am looking to keep the door at its original colour. I have at last been contacted by Jen Weld the manufacturer of the door and they have told me that they cannot recommend a sealer and can only advise me to use a water based medium to high build sealer which has to be a stain (No varnishes, waxes, polishes, oils and lacquers) or I can paint the door which I do not want to do. Nothings ever easy eh, I thought I'd do a quick side project...pah

Hi fellow buildies, I am about to replace my UPVC front and back door + frames with Oak Veneer Timber Doors and hardwood frames and on the installation instructions it specifies a high build stain to protect the wood. I had started to research a product to buy but am getting overwhelmed by the vast choices available so was wondering if someone could recommend a product they have used which turned out well? Cheers guys

Just for future reference the Festool guide rail bottom t-slot profile is deeper than the Scheppach guide rail so the Scheppach hold down clamps will work in Festool but not the other way around. Also the Festool track saw will not run on the Scheppach guide rail but the Scheppach track saw will run on the Festool rail but with a 2-3mm blade overhang

Eh up, I have a Schapp 75 track saw and wanted to know if the t slot is the same size as Festool. I must be losing my touch on Google as I can usually find stuff like that on there. If anyone has a Festool guide rail and wouldn't mind taking measurements of the lower t-slot I would be really grateful. Just wanted to know as lots of Festool accessories such as the rail clamps fit on the lower t-slot. Ta

Screws and a bit of Pink Grip it is...cheers fellas

Thanks for the replies guys, I kinda thought that would be the way forwards. Can I just bond the new 12mm layer of Plaster board to the existing or do I need to try and screw to joists avoiding the 1st layer of Plaster board screws? Oh thats going to be fun.

Hi all just looking for some advice on a Plaster board ceiling dilemma. I have just put up a new 12mm plasterboard ceiling which has not been skimmed yet, I then took out a dividing wall and have found out that the room on the other side of the dividing wall was overboarded. So I have my newly installed 12mm ceiling and then a 24mm overboarded ceiling and need to join them seamlessly, would I try and make a gradient or do I have to add another 12mm layer to the newly installed 12mm? Humph Any help much appreciated guys/girls

Tiny dabs of hot glue do the trick if they do start coming away

Thanks for the reply ProDave, can I ask why. I'm on a steep learning curve so understanding why I'm doing what I,m doing is important to me, I know detailed answers require more time but I would really appreciate it

I am in the process of making some bespoke lighting and have heavily researched products on the market including, LED strips both 12 and 24v, Drivers - dimmable and non-dimmable, Switches LED dimmable, diffuser materials and last but not least units to control the lights via Amazon Echo. If anyone wants any info just ask as I have been testing for the past few months and I think my results are pretty good. Anyway after testing many diff LED strips from many suppliers I have settled with a company called Tagra who supply very good LED drivers and from my tests very good LED's. I chose 24v in the end as the Lumen per metre met my requirements when lighting from behind diffusers. I found that the cheaper 12v LED strips had bad connections, failed or just not bright enough for lighting living/dinning rooms.

Hi guys I am planning a new kitchen and have a question regarding power to a induction hob and a twin oven. The appliances will be placed at locations which require their own power supply as they are more than 3 metres apart on either side of the kitchen. The existing cable from the CU is 10mm T&E with a 32A MCB and runs 4 metres and then gets reduced at a junction box to 6mm T&E and runs another 4 metres, this cable is currently running a twin oven (existing hob is gas). So my question is can I just run another 6mm T&E from the junction box where the 10mm gets reduced to run the hob? My calcs: The Hob is 7.2kw and the double oven is 4.4kw = 11.6kw 11.6kw/240 = 48.3amps Diversity 10% of 48.3amps = 4.83amps 30% of remaining = 13.041 5 amps added for control socket so I have a total of 18.041 amps Any advice would be great ;-)

A bit of a moan about a door hardware supplier........... I'd been looking for some door hardware and decided to go with some Zoo Hardware handles, latches and hinges and had a good scout around the tinterweb for a supplier and came across a company called CHS Architectural Ironmongery in the South West area of the UK. I made an order from the website as the items I was interested in had a good price and in stock, 1 week later and nothing from the company so emailed to chase the order. I got an email back from a guy called George a day later saying that some items not in stock but will be dispatched in a couple of days, well a week later and still nothing. I emailed to chase the order again and they couldn't even bother to reply until numerous emails later and another 4 days had passed I received an email saying again they where out of stock AGAIN. Obviously the dispatch date previously given was a lie and they just left me hanging. Just simple communication and a bit of honesty from the company would have made things a lot easier and wouldn't result in me giving them a bad rep, fair enough company's get out of stock but usually they tell customers about it eh? Anyway I cancelled the order and they refunded me.................rant done

love it

Again Nick thanks for the info, the combination trap was on my list as the Washing machine in very close to sink. Yup just purchased closed coupled toilets a couple of weeks ago so the tee behind is a no no. Thanks for the tips JS, that reminds me I was going to ask about plumbing in the Harvey twin tank that I should be purchasing soon as I see you have the same model. I'll start a new thread for that one in a few days Ta