8ball

Thanks Nick, can the waste from the sink, washing machine and water softener be bossed into the 100mm soil at the toilet location or is it better to run it back to the main soil stack? I'll save about a metre of 40mm pipe also its tight at the 100mm branch to connect. Ta

Hello people I'm just making a start on planning my plumbing for a new downstairs toilet/utility room which is going to be joined to the main vented soil stack of the house. Is there anything extra I need regarding venting? its already vented upstairs.

Thanks for the heads up on the padstone Temp, I have read through Part A and after a few diagrams and calcs the exterior wall is OK but I am now going to keep part of the internal wall in place as a buttress and adding some of the blocks I take out to make it double thickness just to settle my over cautious mind. Cheers Temp

The lintel sits on the back wall which is the original outside wall of the house, it's a cavity wall made from block and brick. I,m worried that taking materials from either side of this wall will leave it unstable the same goes for the 8 metre long outside wall.

I'll rev up the laptop and get on it

OK so back in April 2015 I made a post on Ebuild regarding taking out a block wall which became redundant due to other projects but now it needs doing so I am re-posting but this time with a bit more information as my investigation work has been a lot more thorough. So here goes, I need to remove a single skin block built non load bearing wall. The wall is a dividing a kitchen and a dinning room and is part of a single/double story wrap around extension that was built back in 1985. Once the wall is removed it will create a large L shaped kitchen diner hopefully. Here is a pic of the single story extension: The wall in question is marked in red to the right just inside the double doors please see pic below: As you can see from the pic below there is a boxed in steel lintel marked in yellow/black running across from the outside cavity wall (marked in Orange)to an internal wall which used to be the exterior of the house this is a cavity wall measuring 3 metres in length and built from block and brick(used to be load bearing but no longer is). The cavity wall then takes a 90 degree turn forming the back of the single story Kitchen extension(becomes load bearing), this was originally the back corner of the house before the extension was built. The single skin block wall that needs removing is not tied to the internal cavity wall but is tied to the outside single story 8 metre long wall (pics below), also wanted to note that this is the only internal wall stretching from the old exterior of the house to the 8 metre long back wall of the single story extension. All the top rafters sit on a wall plate bolted to the wall with supports at various intervals transferring weight down to the bottom rafters with one giant nail steadying each rafter. All the bottom rafters are built into the wall, 2 bottom rafters in the roof sit either side of the wall that wants removing. I have taken a couple of pics to show the roof structure as below: The archway (98cm width) in the non load bearing double skin wall is being made wider creating a opening of 152cm, stone arch will be removed and a standard square opening created. See pics below of both sides of arch: My concerns are: Removing the single skin block built non load bearing wall will leave an 8 metre long exterior wall laterally unsupported apart from its ends but will the roof help to keep this in place? Expanding the width of the archway to the left and removing the single skin block wall to the right of the double skinned load bearing wall will surely leave it vulnerable to lateral movement? Really sorry for the giant post but I wanted to make sure that I provide as much info as possible thus avoiding any costly mistakes. Cheers

Only me and the wifey and I only shower twice a week

I rented a property for 3 years and had the combi in the garage and it seemed to play up a lot plus I like my garage space for sawing and smashing stuff. No windows to worry about but have just checked the old gas supply pipe and it looks like 15mm and a combi needs a bit bigger I think

So from some spec sheets found online the maximum run is 10m in either direction but does not say if you can combine vertical/horizontal.

I'm having a new combi boiler (Ideal Vogue C26) and I want it fitted in the new utility room I am creating but the flue needs to travel horizontal for roughly 50cm through into garage and then vertical for about 90 - 100cm through the garage roof, do you guys know if this is possible? I have found lots of info online regarding running flue's but no information about using both horizontal then vertical. I would ask the guys I'm getting in to quote the install but I have a trust issue with builders after being screwed over on my flue install for the woodburner not so long ago. Here is a very intricate and detailed drawing I did of the flue requirement: Whilst on the subject of boilers I was thinking of getting my boiler from Mr Central Heating and then getting a reg'd dude to install it, am I causing any headaches in the future doing it this way?

Good stuff, Ive also just reconfigured the layout so I have the WC right next to the stack so hopefully it will be easy to connect. Once I get started I'll post pics so other members looking for guides can see what its all about. Happy days

Thanks for the tips Onoff, Ive got all those goodies hanging around in the garage somewhere. Good idea with the pipe clip. "FFS don't cut a sh!tty pipe then yourself with the saw!"

The triple sockets seem to be shorter if they are solvent weld, is there any disadvantage with that type of fitting? Ah the difference seems to be that push fit can be twisted/rotated and remounted as solvent is solid and once its fitted its fitted - thanks google

No worries mate, I was just looking for a stubby version of a triple socket which could help if the standard size is to big. I'll nip down to wickes with ma tape measure

Ta

I'm looking online at present trying to find out the centre point height of the t branch on the Floplast triple socket, I have been to the manif's website looking at PDF's but no luck. Does anyone have one they can take a quick measurement off of?

Thanks for the info Peter, the toilet I am buying/chosen has a 180mm height exit as in pic below, I think the new branch will be to high if I use 2 slip couplings as in your drawing. Hmmm

Thanks guys, feel a bit more on track now Cheers

Thanks for the replies guys, Barney12 that is just what I needed...top man. Just a couple of questions, 1.what's a triple socket? and 2. Exposing my stack a little higher is no problem but is it OK to get rid of that grey vent that's sticking out? Cheers

How would a 110mm pipe from a toilet connect to the boss you recommended? I looked at the questions and answers on screwfix and the biggest size is 50mm

Thanks Temp for the advice

Hi guys I am starting my downstairs utility room/toilet and have just removed some of the plasterboard from the boxed in soil pipe and this is what I have As I have never done any plumbing before except install a rad so I thought I would ask a few questions before I start planning the job. So I,m fitting a standard toilet about 90 - 100cm away from this stack and then opposite the toilet is going to be a washing machine, sink and drainage from the combi boiler. Can I remove the orange coupling measuring 14cm in height and trim the pipe coming out of the slab to enable a slip coupling and a FLOPLAST SP190G 92.5° Branch, maybe I'm way off but Ive got to start somewhere. Just a bit of background info -- the stack is vented through the roof upstairs and has 1 toilet, a bath, a shower and sink connected, the stack comes straight down into the slab. Cheers

25mm it is Peter as my record of "oh that's definitely plumb" isn't the best

Yup, the outside measurement of the frame is 82cm width so I'm going to chop out at 84cm to give 10mm each side.