Digmixfill

This is obviously what sets the amateur and the professional walk on glazing installer apart.

But I'm not ready to measure up for that yet!

I'm already above DPM all around and lower slab is in. Have to make the best of what I have. With my very limited experience of them I concur. During the warmer months I find that I have to dampen the block surface I'm laying on before mortar gets near them.

The longest wall is 4.4m. I wouldn't have expected to need a movement joint in that. I thought they were only required at >= 6m ? I am the bricklayer There are some pictures of my finest amateur work in the thread here You can see in the pictures there that some of the blocks are very wet, much darker than the dry blocks. If it is the blocks shrinking as they dry would the lime cause the cracking to be in the perps and not the blocks?

I've already bought all the blocks I think I'll need - celcon standards. Committed. I'm hoping to have wet plaster when it's all done, if not I'll parge. Hopefully the current cracks will not be an issue for me.

Mortar was the same 5:1 for all walls. Only the wet blocks have cracked so far. I'm going to keep an eye on the rest to see if that stays the case. I'm trying to move blocks indoors in rotating stacks to dry them before using them. It's only a matter of time before I forget to replenish a stack and have to use moist blocks.

I've got a few cracks in the celcons here. The walls that where put up when the blocks were wet have cracks, the walls built with blocks that were fully dry are OK. It appears as though they shrink as they dry out.

Unless I'm looking to modify something my automotive engineering is simplified to broken=order parts and fix. I have enough time vampires to juggle already

Don't let on where it is or it will be gone!

Or my lax cleaning after getting it dirty? I'm happy with the 20 years of ownership so far, and happy to keep it for as long as I can.

I'm in the midlands, but have dunked my car in many counties and two continents. I think it's the abrasive properties of the mud and stuff that gets trapped in or near the hubs that eventually breaks the seal on a bearing. The next dunking puts the abrasive paste into the bearing itself and then it's just a matter of time before they grumble to let you know they need replacing.

I'm assuming your 170K is all on tarmac? My discovery isn't a Chelsea tractor that's polished and clean. Try driving your current car through deep muddy water for a while, or axle deep mud and see how your wheel bearings and brakes hold up

You get good and bad builds with all makes. We owned a Ford Focus once that would make the pope swear We've had our Discovery from new in 2001. The chassis is made of cheese and since about 2016 it has needed patching for MOT. Everything else has been wonderfully reliable. It has only needed service items along the way - belts, fluids, wheel bearings, bulbs, tyres. Our Defender is a TD5 engine (as with the Discovery). It's got panel damage and is looking a little tired, but it keeps on plodding. As @Cpd mentions above, even neglected they will still keep going. Re: your battery comment - galvanic corrosion is the bane of the Defender. Both are great for loading up with heavy/bulky stuff at the merchants. It's just costing more to fill them now with prices on their upward trend.

Every second board would have a strip discarded. Just erks me.

The Egger fitting guide has this "All short end joints should always fall on the centre of a secured joist, including perimeter edges. Where this is not the case, please refer to the relevant building guidelines." Another guide has "All short end joints should always fall on the centre of a secured joist including perimeter edges. Where this is not the case refer to NHBC guidelines" And NHBC has

Happy days. This makes things much simpler. One cut per row and on to the next.

You've got a strong dislike for them eh? They're a bit marmite. You either like them or not. Did you own one that was particularly troublesome for you, or is it hate from afar? We've got newer cars, but the landrovers are my favourite. No one has complained about the old design when they ask me to pull them out of trouble in winter, no matter what they're driving. ?

1 for, 1 against. It's like the voices in my head It will be 22mm board and the posis are at 400mm spacing, everything will be fully glued and screwed. @LA3222 It's more about keeping waste down rather than the cost saving. Though any extra sawing time saved is a boon. @nod Building control were happy with the joints in between the joists?

I can see why an unsupported short end flying joint at a floor perimeter is bad, but one elsewhere, glued in between other T&G boards shouldn't be detrimental? I'm trying to think of ways to lessen waste from off cuts. Not cutting to have a joint on a joist would save a little. Do or don't do?

I've recently put 20 posis in on hangers and aimed for the 1mm gap. I left a gap for the reason Temp mentioned. I'm expecting everything to lock up nicely when I put the boards in place.

So true. I am ever so good at over thinking most things on this conversion. Yes. The 75mm spacing is because of the wings on the joist hangers. I could ditch the current and switch to something like a teco fhm for the masonry side and a hidden flange for the ledger plate side.

One of possibilities i've pondered is a 47mm lump of wood glued and screwed to the length of both chords. Minimise the gap for P5 and ceiling plasterboard. With all the do's and don'ts of webbed joists i'm not sure if that's allowed? You are allowed to sister them by screwing together, so I don't see why it wouldn't be allowed.

I was surprised. I expected Egger to say that it would be fine if, as you mention, plaster/drywall and skirting are added - reducing the gap. The reply I had was the BDA agrement and a quote from a section: "butt joints shall be staggered and supported by noggins or joists; the particleboards shall be fixed and supported on the perimeter edges of the short-ends by noggins or joists. Although long edges do not require intermediate support between joists, support noggings shall be fixed at floor perimeters where unsupported edges abut a wall" Along with "You are correct in what you say about the short ends falling on the joist, where this is not possible an additional nogging must be fitted to support the short end."

I've just ordered the first set of posi joists - more visible progress :) I was planning to use Egger Protect for the first floor, so read the installation guide etc. Had a query regarding short edge support and joist overhang so emailed Egger. I'm going to end up with a 75mm gap between the end joists and the walls - like this snippet stolen from NHBC. Egger say that the short ends of all boards must be supported and have said I would need to install noggins for the gap. My google fu is weak and I can't find any examples on t'web for people doing this. Anyone dealt with this?

For the win! The steel in railway lines is really hard stuff. I had read online, before I started drilling, that trying to work with anything other than carbide tipped tools would end with me spending time dressing/sharpening the tools. That was very true. I'm sharpening the larger bits after every hole. Do you think a bi-metal hole saw is up to inch thick hard steel?