Digmixfill

You get good and bad builds with all makes. We owned a Ford Focus once that would make the pope swear We've had our Discovery from new in 2001. The chassis is made of cheese and since about 2016 it has needed patching for MOT. Everything else has been wonderfully reliable. It has only needed service items along the way - belts, fluids, wheel bearings, bulbs, tyres. Our Defender is a TD5 engine (as with the Discovery). It's got panel damage and is looking a little tired, but it keeps on plodding. As @Cpd mentions above, even neglected they will still keep going. Re: your battery comment - galvanic corrosion is the bane of the Defender. Both are great for loading up with heavy/bulky stuff at the merchants. It's just costing more to fill them now with prices on their upward trend.

Every second board would have a strip discarded. Just erks me.

The Egger fitting guide has this "All short end joints should always fall on the centre of a secured joist, including perimeter edges. Where this is not the case, please refer to the relevant building guidelines." Another guide has "All short end joints should always fall on the centre of a secured joist including perimeter edges. Where this is not the case refer to NHBC guidelines" And NHBC has

Happy days. This makes things much simpler. One cut per row and on to the next.

You've got a strong dislike for them eh? They're a bit marmite. You either like them or not. Did you own one that was particularly troublesome for you, or is it hate from afar? We've got newer cars, but the landrovers are my favourite. No one has complained about the old design when they ask me to pull them out of trouble in winter, no matter what they're driving. ?

1 for, 1 against. It's like the voices in my head It will be 22mm board and the posis are at 400mm spacing, everything will be fully glued and screwed. @LA3222 It's more about keeping waste down rather than the cost saving. Though any extra sawing time saved is a boon. @nod Building control were happy with the joints in between the joists?

I can see why an unsupported short end flying joint at a floor perimeter is bad, but one elsewhere, glued in between other T&G boards shouldn't be detrimental? I'm trying to think of ways to lessen waste from off cuts. Not cutting to have a joint on a joist would save a little. Do or don't do?

I've recently put 20 posis in on hangers and aimed for the 1mm gap. I left a gap for the reason Temp mentioned. I'm expecting everything to lock up nicely when I put the boards in place.

So true. I am ever so good at over thinking most things on this conversion. Yes. The 75mm spacing is because of the wings on the joist hangers. I could ditch the current and switch to something like a teco fhm for the masonry side and a hidden flange for the ledger plate side.

One of possibilities i've pondered is a 47mm lump of wood glued and screwed to the length of both chords. Minimise the gap for P5 and ceiling plasterboard. With all the do's and don'ts of webbed joists i'm not sure if that's allowed? You are allowed to sister them by screwing together, so I don't see why it wouldn't be allowed.

I was surprised. I expected Egger to say that it would be fine if, as you mention, plaster/drywall and skirting are added - reducing the gap. The reply I had was the BDA agrement and a quote from a section: "butt joints shall be staggered and supported by noggins or joists; the particleboards shall be fixed and supported on the perimeter edges of the short-ends by noggins or joists. Although long edges do not require intermediate support between joists, support noggings shall be fixed at floor perimeters where unsupported edges abut a wall" Along with "You are correct in what you say about the short ends falling on the joist, where this is not possible an additional nogging must be fitted to support the short end."

I've just ordered the first set of posi joists - more visible progress :) I was planning to use Egger Protect for the first floor, so read the installation guide etc. Had a query regarding short edge support and joist overhang so emailed Egger. I'm going to end up with a 75mm gap between the end joists and the walls - like this snippet stolen from NHBC. Egger say that the short ends of all boards must be supported and have said I would need to install noggins for the gap. My google fu is weak and I can't find any examples on t'web for people doing this. Anyone dealt with this?

For the win! The steel in railway lines is really hard stuff. I had read online, before I started drilling, that trying to work with anything other than carbide tipped tools would end with me spending time dressing/sharpening the tools. That was very true. I'm sharpening the larger bits after every hole. Do you think a bi-metal hole saw is up to inch thick hard steel?

I'm putting a ledger plate on either side of a 9 inch wall. A pair of old railway lines sits exactly where the holes need to be. I've drilled a few holes using cobalt bits 4->8->10->12mm, then switching to masonry for the centre. Then back to cobalt for the rest of the steel. The steel is an inch thick or thereabouts, amd It's buggeringly hard too. A mag drill base won't fit inside the web Any suggestions on how to drill these holes quickly? A hole The sandwich

This is one of the things I came across when googling earlier. Where a lintel bridges a cavity I can see the benefit of thermally breaking the lintel. All of my openings are thermally broken at the lintel. All of the inner leaf lintels are single leaf only. Up to now I've put concrete in the internal walls and insulated box lintels in the inner leaf of the external walls. The externals have either been CN71 catnic or brick arches. The wondering about either having a benefit over the other was just something I thought about whilst measuring up earlier. If it doesn't make much difference either way i'll continue as before.

I'm about to put together an order for quite a few lintels for the rest of my inner leaf. Any real difference between the two types will affect my choices.

Whilst doing today another random thought lodged itself. Is there any thermal benefit to either a solid concrete lintel or a steel box lintel in the inner leaf of an insulated cavity wall? My google searching keeps turning up entries pertaining to thermal bridging across the cavity, but I haven't yet come across anything comparing thermal properties for the two in a single leaf. Anyone have any thoughts or views on this?

Thank you I'm getting neater at blockwork but I'm still sloth like. I'm quite used to the scaffold boards over the wobbly towers - I've not fallen off or spilt any tea yet. Three towers in that room means I can walk the full wall. My plan is to drop the hangers on and bolt up the ledgers and fit the joists. Add the 3 courses of block over the hangers, and then move the towers up over the joists. The corner is going to be a bit like tetris for two courses. The last corner block on the hanger row is bonded over the corner block. I have been trying to avoid coursing both walls and buggering up matching courses with the PUR board. Not sure if I've saved myself any hassle by doing this or not. Our plans specify to fit the windows and doors a particular distance back from the face of the outer brickwork. I *think* it is 50mm, but I've not looked at that part of the plans for a while.

Pictures ? Row where hangers will go. Other side where i'm going to bolt ledger plates either side of the 9 inch internal wall. I've tried two ways of closing the cavity. Cutting the PUR boards flush with the edge and filling the remainder like this. And cutting boards to make a fitted piece face on. This is the better method I think. Hopefully you can see that the cavity gets wider toward the top of the reveals in these pictures.

The straight internal wall accentuates the wonk when looking at a doorway or window reveal, but that won't be as obvious when plaster boarded. Other than needing lots of different sized ties it's turning out ok so far. I'm fitting 90mm PUR as I go and might fill the remainder with beads or something else later.

Yes, the internal blockwork is tied to the outer 9 inch brickwork with resin bonded ties. You just want to see my naff blockwork don't you I'll go try grab a couple of decent pictures.

From a webbed joist installation document This would give a restraint strap at the centre of the span.

It's time for floor joists in one room of my conversion. I've still to decide if i'm going with webbed joists or solid timber and whilst looking through information for webbed joists I started to confuse myself. Webbed joists for spans that we have will require a strongback across the room. This will have a restraint strap holding it to the blockwork. Timber joists will just have strutting across the room with no requirement for straps at the strutting point. For the purpose of my puzzlement assume a room 3.7m square. This is over the 3m requirement for lateral restraint straps. Part A 2C35 says "Walls should be strapped to floors above ground level, at intervals not exceeding 2m and as shown in Diagram 15." With the timber joists I had thought that I needed to put 2 straps at 1.23m spacings. With webbed joists having a restraint strap at the centre of the span the distance between the strap and each end of the room is 1.85m. Does this mean that no further straps are required for the webbed joists?

The first price I came across for the WCF200 was £54 inc VAT - no indication of multiples or a pack, so i'm taking that as each. Apparently that's with 18% off rrp.

Inner is 100mm celcon. Outer is 235-240mm clay brick. Polypipe WCF200 would do the job nicely, but my they're pricey ?