Digmixfill

Thank you :) The plans for this where put together prior to the 2010 regs. I've already dug out enough to have 100mm insulation, so it is slightly better. I'm close to putting the hardcore down, so if things are to change in the floor now is the time. I'd be more than happy to replace the lower slab with 150mm of insulation if building control are ok with it. I like the idea of a thicker screed. I can always bring the heat on earlier if it's slow to respond.

Hello everyone. I have a soil pipe that runs from a chamber outside, through the foundations and across the ground under the hardcore to a downstairs bathroom. I think I'm going to have to feed the bath waste into a floor level manifold beside the toilet outlet to get a drop. I've looked at a couple of manifolds that are similar to the image attached. Some recess the body into the screed, some sit atop but all seem to have a similar length outlet to connect to the soil pipe. I've not come across any details yet on the depth to terminate the long radius bend in the floor to accommodate these manifolds. Any pointers/ideas welcomed.

The things that bother me about the Kensa information are a) 5C as a trigger point to activate the system seems awfully high, it would run the system on many days here. b) activating the the entire system seems wasteful if there is no call for heat. @PeterW your choice of 1C activation temperature is much more sensible.

The circulation pump agitating the water for a short time sounds sensible enough. The Kensa information i received was "The heat pump is extremely robust, what isnt, is the water within the machine on the heating side, if the heating is off because its the middle of the night and the temp drops below 5°C the frost stat will override the programmer an switch on the heating system to stop it freezing" If that information came from a reseller or installer i'd just assume they were talking bobbins but the information was from Kensa themselves. I did ask in a reply why that should be the case if all liquids had antifreeze but never got any further response.

I'm nowhere near needing to purchase my GSHP yet, but I am at the point where I need to decide where it will live. Ideally it will be in its own weather proof hut on the outside of the building. Whilst mulling things over earlier I remembered something that was mentioned a while ago by a chap a Kensa. The chap said that the Evo could be housed externally but it would require a frost stat that would turn on the heat pump to prevent freezing if the outside temperature dropped below 5C. Having looked inside an older Kensa GSHP I couldn't see anything that would require frost prevention. The control PCB was conformally coated and all of the liquids contained antifreeze. Does anyone here have their heat pump housed externally and do you have a frost stat for < 5C?

You have a PM

ACS are still in business :) Thanks for the details I'll drop them an email and see what they can offer for the longer ties I'll need. I'm going with the resin filled hole for the ties. I've done a few so far and they don't seem too much hassle.

Thanks for checking this. My Following preferences for the thread are at the top of the page not the bottom, and it would seem that I am the incognito follower Other settings are set to send email when new content is posted I've checked my mail server logs and there doesn't appear to be any delivery attempt from anything that has buildhub in it's FQDN.

Only just spotted the update to this thread. I'm still not sure why i don't get email alerts for posts I ended up walking around the building with a 12ft 2x4 and a laser level. Found all the low and high spots and ended up doing what you have described. Two rooms are up to DPC level and the height level change bit is almost up to the top DPC level. Just a couple of beams and block to sort to finish the height change. Where did you get you ties made up? And did you opt for beads to fill your irregular cavities?

Our floor detail has been drawn up with the concrete, insulation and UFH + screed all above the DPM. This particular wall has to be completed before the other walls in this room can be dealt with, It's part of a height change in the room. Thanks for the idea of downstanding the DPC into the rooms. That might be useful for the main event. Did you tape over the overlap or butt joint with tape over?

My DPM is under the concrete base slab. The wall to DPC is 225mm higher that the top of the base slab. Insulation and UFH screen take things up to the DPC height from the top of the base slab.

I've got a 9 inch wall that i have to place a DPC on and a DPM that i need to trim and lap under the DPC. My google fu has failed. Anyone have a handy hint on how to hold the DPM against the wall, and on top of the wall whilst i lay the DPC and blocks?

Staffordshire. I have this thread set to notify me of replies and my settings say immediate notification but I'm not seeing any email notifications. (No obvious delivery failures in my email server log either). Are newbies excluded from notifications?

No argument from me there. I've found beads that have a marginally better U value than the batts i'd decided on, so that's a plus. I'm trying to do everything myself, so labour costs tend not to factor in. Batts are currently going to cost me 7.55/m2 for 100mm roughly £81/m3. We had a structural engineer take a look at everything before we started. The only works required was underpinning. Whilst doing things today i noticed one corner where the wonk was obvious to the naked eye. Pictures attached.

Is the blown bead DIYable? I've had a quick look around but i've only come across "professional" install. I had the notion that EVERYTHING would be perfect and square before I started. The century old building has seen that idea off.

I thank you

I fixed that for you ?

Automated roller shutter doors next?

I've been a little preoccupied. The grinding out and pointing inside to make everything sound took forever. :( Is there a medal or a trophy to be had for my record? :) Everyone's comments on cooling is exactly the thing i'm hoping for when this build is finished. The 9 inch external walls should be a benefit and so long as i pay attention to insulation and air tightness all should be well.

Fair point on the plans. It was building regs that i had in mind when i mentioned plan changes. The insulation choice at the moment is glass wool batts. The datasheet for these suggests that a +/- 15mm irregularity is fine but i'll need to get creative on the larger spacings.

Timber frame would probably be easier, quicker and maybe cheaper to do but my preference is for an inner leaf. Having read the replies to this and my other thread we are discussing the possibility of timber but new blockwork is looking favourite so far.

Thanks for the replies :) It's an old brick barn and the alterations it has had, roof failing and general movement over time have taken its toll. I've underpinned the entire building and extended the concrete inside to serve the new inner leaf. (My username is based on this joyful task) The leafs will be tied together with wall ties resin bonded into the existing brickwork. Insulation will be full fill. The worst measurement i have shows that one wall is > 100mm out of true at one end due to the wall bowing and twisting at the same time. Most are +/- 50mm at some point along them. If I changed to timber frame now I'd have to submit changes to the plans and whatnot. It's an option i suppose but i'd prefer the new inner leaf.

There are some days when i question my sanity and wonder why i started this seemingly never ending task That's been my experience along the way. I usually find that someone else has been hit with the same or similar issue and some helpful soul has given a solution. Hopefully anything i ask will have similar value to the next googlenaut. Thank you :)

I've got to build inner leaf to create a 100mm cavity against existing 225mm brick outer walls. The existing walls are anything but straight which means that if i built the inner leaf true the cavity will change size quite a bit on some walls. The roof wall plates will be on the new leaf when it is replaced. My question is should i build the inner leaf straight and try to average out the cavity space or should i construct the new leaf to follow the undulations of the existing walls to maintain a 100mm cavity?

Hello Everyone, I've been slowly converting an old brick barn by myself, picking up the skills required along the way. So far I've been able to achieve everything I've needed to by research and reading forums etc. I'm about to embark on building the internal walls to form a cavity and have been unable to find the answers i need, and now it's time for me to post a question I've found that ebuild is no more. So here i am *wave*